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Can I soften the start of a single phase motor by reducing the start capacitance?

rimcanyon

Diamond
Joined
Sep 28, 2002
Location
Salinas, CA USA
I have a Baldor 1.5 hp single phase motor (series 35E01-1274) with dual capacitors, that starts up with a lot of torque. I would like to slow down the start, make it softer. I don't know what the intended application was for this motor, but I am using it with a contractors table saw and when the motor starts it also bucks and it takes a few seconds to quiet down. So my thought is to replace the starting capacitor (860-950MFD 120VAC) with a capacitor with half the capacitance. Will this help soften the start? The run capacitor is a 12MFD 370VAC unit.
 
Maybe, but it won't help much until you run the risk of it not starting at all. The starting capacitor is there just to make the motor begin spinning in the correct direction. It's only there until the centrifugal switch opens at about 80% speed and on a circular saw with no load, that takes place in probably less than a second. The biggest "kick" in torque is when the motor passes through what's called the "breakdown torque" part of the torque-speed curve, and that only happens AFTER the start switch has already opened. There's not really much you can do about it without creating more problems than you solve. That's one of the down sides of using single phase CSCR motors. Permanent Split capacitor (PSC) motors would have less of a jolt, but also less torque to recover from a step change in load, i.e. when the blade hits the work, and since the blades work on speed, allowing it to slow down can ruin it really fast.

There are single phase soft starters that would decrease that starting torque, but they too are risky on that type of motor, because the capacitor charging current looks like a short circuit to the SCRs, and the SCR phase angle firing that creates the reduced voltage causes harmonic heating of the capacitors. So it's usually a race to see which one fails first.
 
If you run at 125, and it’s dual volts....

My ill-informed opinion is to start on 250 volt windings, and use a timing relay or other means to switch the windings.

Or use a thinner gauge cord

Or bolt it to the tailgate, cause you took it off its base.
 
Reduced voltage starting is well established as a means to reduce start current. Using a higher voltage winding, as with a wye delta start, or else starting on a higher voltage winding, is equivalent to reducing voltage.
 
... So my thought is to replace the starting capacitor (860-950MFD 120VAC) with a capacitor with half the capacitance. Will this help soften the start? The run capacitor is a 12MFD 370VAC unit.

In my recent experience, Yes. This works exactly as you'd guess. I have a 'Farm Duty' 1.5 HP motor that had way more torque than needed. The consequence was that it drew a LOT of starting current, and gave my generator fits. I halved the starting cap value. The starting current dropped, but it still had plenty of torque for my application. For a table saw, you might even want less than half the current value. Tinker at it - I think you'll find it can work pretty well...
 
OK, LOTS of opinions. I have some caps that would reduce the starting capacitance to less than half, so I will try one. I am also building a new motor mount so that there more resistance to the force moment when the motor starts. The contractor saw motor mount worked ok for a ¾ hp motor, but the Baldor 1.5hp motor is quite a bit heavier and I think the motor mount flexes due to the startup torque.

The idea to use the 220V windings makes sense, so I will hold that in reserve. The problem is the run cap, i.e. the start cap and run cap use the same circuit, so I am not sure how I would use the 220V windings for the start cap and the 110V windings after the start cap drops out. I could probably do it with a suitable relay.
 
The 220 just puts the windings in series. The start remains in parallel with one of them.

So the relay changes one winding from parallel to series just for starting, thus reducing everyone's voltage.

The electronic ones use triacs or SCRs to reduce the effective voltage.
 
If you have doubled the HP on the saw, you may need to look at double the belts, if you need to get all that power to the blade. If it's just because you had the motor anyway, and you're not loading the blade any heavier, you could run with just the one belt... or however many it originally had. Belt might also be slipping and grabbing on startup, which would make the mount a little jumpy too.

Chip
 








 
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