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Can someone identify this screw terminal connector?

mwr

Aluminum
Joined
Apr 1, 2009
Location
Southern California
Sorry if this isn't the ideal forum for this, I couldn't think of a better one.

I need a few of these connectors which I don't even know a name for. It is a threaded cylindrical screw terminal about 10mm dia and 15mm long, with a post down the middle to squish a wire at the bottom of a slotted, threaded post. Hopefully the pics will explain it all. I could make them but if they're something common then I'd rather spend my time doing something else.. Thank you
 

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Metric thread? If so, it's not a NEMA part.
IEC standard, my guess.

Was that terminal block / barrier strip contained on a track?

It's a poor design, I wouldn't be in love with it.

[bump]

Barrier strip | eBay

Philmore 12 Terminal Euro Style 18-2 AWG Barrier Strip
barrier_strip_euro__79183.1440249432.1280.1280.jpg

this style can be trimmed to size.
 
Looks to be a rather spiffy proprietary variant on the split stud electrical connector theme.

Google search for "split stud electrical connector" finds plenty but mostly for heavier gauge wires than yours I think. Rather utilitarian in style too with a simple nut pushing a shoe down the slot to make the connection

Clive
 
Nominally, what SteveBausch shows is noce, but note the links.... This appears to be a motor connection block, or somethng like that. It's less convenient to do that link deal with those "eurostyle" blocks.

I don't like the eurostyle blocks, have seen too many of them melt and let the terminals touch. Thermoplastic is just WRONG for terminal blocks. ThermoSET plastics are better in that way, they do not melt, although they will char.
 
Thank you all, this will get me on my way. Yes, it is a fancy split stud connector as Clive mentioned, and it is the motor connection box on an old Swedish Pullmax machine.
 
I don't think the Swedes can create a reliable electromechanical device to save their life.

Years ago a farm retreat spent ten grand on a 75lb Wascomat front loader, to be ran on a rotary converter.

The electrician who championed its purchase gave up on it, hauled it off to a distant barn, and refused to speak of it.
 
I suspect many of these "where to find, after it's ID'd" threads would be better called "please check your junk drawers and send me one of these".

And many of us have the item, but a bird in hand is better than two in the catalog.
 
I don't think the Swedes can create a reliable electromechanical device to save their life.

Years ago a farm retreat spent ten grand on a 75lb Wascomat front loader, to be ran on a rotary converter.

The electrician who championed its purchase gave up on it, hauled it off to a distant barn, and refused to speak of it.

naw, Jets, cars, logging equipment, naw thay cannot make anything electromechanical.....
 
It's a machinist board. Just make 'em, would be dead easy.



It is a LITTLE complicated by that pin in the middle of it. Threading the inside around the pin would be interesting, so the pin would be better added later, unless you make a tap with a recess, or gin up an inside threading tool to fit. The part is not very big.

The part with pin appears to be one piece in the pictures.
 
It is a LITTLE complicated by that pin in the middle of it. Threading the inside around the pin would be interesting, so the pin would be better added later, unless you make a tap with a recess, or gin up an inside threading tool to fit. The part is not very big.

The part with pin appears to be one piece in the pictures.

Brass bar stock, knurl, blind bore and tap. Drill for the pin, cut off. Pin is a separate piece
that slips up inside, with a rim partway down so it won't push though when you solder it in place
from the outside.

Face the end flat and slot for the screwdriver.
 
Those would be easy to make.

1. All you need to do is machine a barrel and thread the internal part.
2. Get a machine screw with the same thread. Cut down the length of the screw to the length of the barrel.
3. Turn down the end of the screw but leave the head end with some of the original thread.
4. Now insert the screw into the barrel. Loctite or super glue perhaps to lock the thread, but I would just let tension lock the thread.
5. Turn down the head if it is wider than the barrel. Knurl the head if you want you want. Since the screw is already, great. You can choose a stainless screw so the you wont be stuck with soft plated brass and stripping it out in the future.

How do you say it, "Easy as cake"..."pie"...
 
Brass bar stock, knurl, blind bore and tap. Drill for the pin, cut off. Pin is a separate piece
that slips up inside, with a rim partway down so it won't push though when you solder it in place
from the outside.

Face the end flat and slot for the screwdriver.

It is a LITTLE complicated by that pin in the middle of it. Threading the inside around the pin would be interesting, so the pin would be better added later, unless you make a tap with a recess, or gin up an inside threading tool to fit. The part is not very big.

The part with pin appears to be one piece in the pictures.

................
 
I've never met a Bakelite barrier strip that failed to end up in a drawer.

I don't understand this fascination with "stock", unless you're trying to pass off a piece of equipment as pristine.

I've got this 13" South Bend, that now has reproduction data plates on it. I am fully aware that if/when I sell it, I will need to have the buyer sign a statement acknowledging:

Reproduction data plates
Tumbler box not in best shape
Taper attachment not original, pieced together

Etc

To cover my butt from that buyer selling it on, as pristine, and attempting to deflect allegations of fraud by claiming "that's what Steve Bausch told me"
 
I've never met a Bakelite barrier strip that failed to end up in a drawer.

I don't understand this fascination with "stock", unless you're trying to pass off a piece of equipment as pristine.

...../QUOTE]

I'd reckon he has the entire thing except for the one or two screws, and would rather replace those than fix up some different system to fit in the motor wiring box space that the original item fits into perfectly.

Makes sense to me. Those things are often some standard that manufacturer liked, and are not available elsewhere, so replacing a couple parts is far better than changing out the whole system.
 
naw, Jets, cars, logging equipment, naw thay cannot make anything electromechanical.....

A friend in the UK owns and services logging equipment, he says everything the Swedes make in logging equipment is 2x as complicated as it needs to be. He said at the shop not a problem, but 2am deep in a forest trying to get a machine up and running, it's a different story
 








 
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