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Thread: drum switch wiring
01-13-2012, 08:34 PM #1
drum switch wiring
Here's my problem guys- i have a baldor 1/2 hp. motor # F AE280085 1140 r.p.m. 115/220 v. It has 7 wires coming out of it. 1-2-3-4-5-8 and j Is it possible to wire this to a reversing drum switch? I've not seen this type of wiring before, but then i'm not a electrician by trade. I believe it is also an explosion proof motor. It does say it can be reversed by switching #5 and #8 wires. Any feedback would be appreciated! Thanks!
01-13-2012, 09:20 PM #2
First thing, is there a connection diagram either on the nameplate or in the cover of the junction box on the side of the motor?
01-13-2012, 10:17 PM #3
yes- there is
01-14-2012, 11:41 AM #4
01-14-2012, 12:47 PM #5
This has come up before. What does the J wire connect to? Regarding the connection diagram, can you take a picture and post it here?
01-14-2012, 05:24 PM #6
I'll try and get a photo of the wiring diagram in here, but for the time being, the wires are as follows: on 115v. #1-3+5 are connected to L1.....#2-8+j are wirenutted together.....#4 is connected to L2. On 230v. #1 is connected to L1....#4 is connected to L2.....#2-3+5 are wirenutted..... and j+8 are wirenutted. I'm using 115v. right now, but i could switch to 230v. if need be. I'm converting my drill press so i can reverse the motor for backing out taps. I don't have a tap-o-matic, so this is my next best way! I need to find out if this is even possible before i buy the drum switch. Thanks for any input!
01-14-2012, 06:27 PM #7
"What does the J wire connect to?"
NEMA standard is T1, T3, T2 and T4 for the run windings.
Nomenclature varies in the start circuit. T5 and T6 for the start winding. C7 and C8 for the capacitor is common. J9 and J10 for the centrifugal switch. P11 and P12 for the thermal protector (if provided) is a possibility. As there is no ambiguity with the capacitor, centrifugal switch and thermal protector, and as these are not polarity sensitive, these could have other numbers.
In one specific application, for 230 volts, T3, T4 and T5 are connected together with a wire nut and J10 is connected to the drum switch.
On many drum switches, for 115 volts, you have the option of reversing either the run winding or the start circuit, whereas for 230 volts, you usually reverse the run winding as the start circuit cannot be reversed (it is connected to the drum switch using only J10 and T5 is connected to T3 and T4.
01-14-2012, 06:39 PM #8
You have everything you need. Connect 1, 3 and a wire to the drum switch. Call this T1.
Connect 2, 4 and a wire to the drum. Call This T2
Connect 8, j and a wire. Call this S2
Connect 5 and wire. Call this S1.
To check out the wiring, connect T1 and S1 to one wire from the wall outlet. Connect T2 and S2 to the other side. The motor should start and go one way. Reverse the S's and T's, It should go the other way.
When you get the drum switch, wire it using its instructions.
01-14-2012, 09:31 PM #9
thanks for the info Tom.....i'll give it a try!
01-15-2012, 02:41 PM #10
"...I'm converting my drill press so i can reverse the motor for backing out taps."
STop right now.
Unless this is one of the very rare instant-reversing motors, you will not be able
to accomplish your goal.
Single phase motors like yours will continue running in the SAME DIRECTION when you
flip the drum switch from foward to reverse. Your tap will bury itself in the work and
will snap, for certain.
There are basically two things you can use to accomplish what you want to do:
1) a procunier tapping head (or any other kind of head, I just like those in particular), or
2) a three phase motor and VFD retrofit for the drill press.
01-15-2012, 04:48 PM #11
Jim is correct. I hope you have something in the way of a clutch to hold the tap. A tap directly mounted in the drill chuck, particularly one with flats, will almost certainly break because of the torque and inertia of the drill press. Its not just bottoming out the tap due to overrun, but also the case of a dull tap.
01-15-2012, 07:06 PM #12
"Unless this is one of the very rare instant-reversing motors, you will not be able to accomplish your goal."
In general, yes.
However, if you select STOP, then wait until you HEAR the centrifugal switch drop-in, which WILL happen when the motor slows or stalls in the FWD direction, AND THEN you select REV, it WILL reverse.
Instant-reversing single-phase motors automate exactly this process.
Polyphase motors may be plug-reversed without any special devices.
Single-phase motors cannot be plug-reversed at all, but the behavior of plug reversing may be simulated using special devices.
Instant-reversing motors are employed in garage door openers and in some machine tools, perhaps popularized in South Bend products, for which General Electric made a purpose-built motor which also employed a patented device to accelerate the reversing process. Door openers do not necessarily have this patented device.
01-15-2012, 07:50 PM #13
but in the post he says
"It does say it can be reversed by switching #5 and #8 wires"
I am not an electrician , just went back and read the post again.
01-15-2012, 09:12 PM #14
Thanks for all the concern guys!....i understand what everyones saying, but i always let the motor come to a complete stop, no matter it be a drill press, lathe, or mill. I've seen too many guys do that no-stop, change direction stuff, and the mess they create. I never do blind holes that way- just through holes, in thinner metal, and mostly just to get the tap started straight, then finish it by hand. this is done in my home shop. I used a procunier tapping head for the last 32 years at work......but then a real funny thing happened- i retired!! Life is good!
01-16-2012, 03:30 PM #15
good for you
.but then a real funny thing happened- i retired!! Life is good!
I went 40 years in a machine shop and retired 4 years ago, your right life is good.
Wife is still working, but she works 8 hours comes home for 8 hours and sleeps for 8 hours.
She could get a second job!!!!!
01-16-2012, 07:13 PM #16
Ok, just so long as you know to allow the spindle to coast to a stop before
backing out, that will do fine.
I've always been a procunier fan - until I put a VFD on my home drill press and though
I would just 'try it' once with a tap in the chuck. Works great. If I really wanted to
go to town with it, I'd wire the foot pedal to reverse the drive. But for now the
pedal drives the tap in, I stop at the bottom, speed it up, hit reverse, and then the
pedal pulls the tap back out.