Help with motor dataplate decoding and multiple voltage wiring

I'm in the middle of refreshing an Anayak "Exacto" vertical mill, which was made in Spain. The motor dataplate was pretty rough when I first saw the machine, and thankfully I got a decent photos of it, as it was mangled badly during the process of moving the machine.

I have access to a shop that can reproduce a new printed metal tag, so I've whipped up some hopefully acceptable artwork for a replacement. The problem there is that a couple of the boxes are not easily readable, so I'm looking for some help in deciperhing.

Here's a reduced copy of the original dataplate:



If you'd like to see the full-size photo, click here.

And here's a reduced copy of the artwork for the new tag:



I think I have most of that correct, though I'm kind of guessing on the "fab number" and the various voltage wiring symbols.

What I can't even guess at is the tag to the right of the "KW" box, and the "Tip" number. (What's "Tip" mean, anyway? And for that matter, what's "Aisl. cl." mean?)

I'm also curious if anyone can tell me that the logo at the very bottom right is supposed to be.

And finally, here's the actual wiring of the motor:



I know that may not show enough detail, but can anyone hazard a guess as to which voltage it's wired for? And/or how I'd go about wiring it for 220v?

Thanks.
Doc.

Tip short for tipo or type I would suppose

How many "T" (usually numbered) wires are coming out of motor?

Looks like you have bundles of FOUR hooked up to each "line" wire - is that correct?

With four wires linked to each phase it must be wired for 220v operation, parallel delta connected.

Looking at the damaged original tag with a large magnifying glass can often reveal enough to decipher what was originally printed on the tag.
Rubbing lightly with a common pencil eraser will often remove some dirt debris from the damage enough, that under magnification you can see what is there.

Ed

DM said:

With four wires linked to each phase it must be wired for 220v operation, parallel delta connected.

Click to expand...

+1

There is more info in those little pictograms than first meets they eye. Parallel-Delta, Wye, and Delta are shown with voltages and current-draw expected. Knowing all three were provided-for at all is a major assist in figuring out HOW.

There wudda been a tech pub linked to the 'Tipo' ELSE 'Fab number'.

Probably faster to rev engineer it than find that, and certainly more predictable as to success.

Bill

johnoder said:

Looks like you have bundles of FOUR hooked up to each "line" wire - is that correct?

Click to expand...

-That's correct. Two red and two black, then two black and two yellow, then two yellow and two red. If anybody needs it, I can get the lead numbers.

The previous owner, which may have ultimately been a local machine shop, apparently just sliced off the end of the cable- there's only about another 2" below the hose clamp. So that's pretty much the last configuration it was set for.

Looking at the damaged original tag with a large magnifying glass can often reveal enough to decipher what was originally printed on the tag.

Click to expand...

-Unfortunately, the forklift we were using to unload it rubbed up against the motor and damaged the tag even worse than you see it there. Most of it is now even less readable, magnifying glass or no.

There is more info in those little pictograms than first meets they eye. Parallel-Delta, Wye, and Delta are shown with voltages and current-draw expected. Knowing all three were provided-for at all is a major assist in figuring out HOW.

Click to expand...

-So do I have those symbols properly reproduced, do you think? I was kind of guessing at the "double triangle" and "double Y" bits. I'm not an electrician, I'm just trying to properly reproduce what was on the original tag.

Doc.

DocsMachine said:

-So do I have those symbols properly reproduced, do you think? I was kind of guessing at the "double triangle" and "double Y" bits. I'm not an electrician, I'm just trying to properly reproduce what was on the original tag.

Doc.

Click to expand...

The only other logical possibility may have been Wye-start, Delta-run, but the motor isn't large enough to require that sort of soft-start assistance, the present wiring dasn't fit it, the motor was touted as universal or at least more flexible than average, so I am with the paralleled Delta probability as a very STRONG one.

Fortunately, it is probably the one best-suited to your needs as well. EG: Clean up the wires, splice in pigtails/new cable, but otherwise 'don't mess' with their mapping.

Bill

Just to add some additional clarity:

"Ails. cl" = "Aislador clase", "Insulation Class", so that is Class E insulation, which in IEC world is 120 deg. C max, falling somewhere between Class A and Class B in NEMA motor insulation classes. In other words, almost as low as it can get.

To the right of the kW value is a box that says "2 cv", which means 2 "cheval vapeur", French for Horsepower (many older European units of measurement were established by Napoleon, so they were in French). Technically a cv is slightly less than what we call a HP today, but being that it would be something like 1.97HP, it's close enough.

I can't make out the box to the right of the kW, but most likely that was the Duty Cycle because I think I can see a % sign in there. In IEC world, there is an "S" number and if it's S3 or S6, it is followed by a percent value, indicating how often it can be cycled. It's complicated, so read this.
http://www.moratto.it/wp-content/uploads/Duty-types.pdf
For us, the relative equivalent is "Service Factor", but our definitions of Service Factor make no distinction for time frames, theirs are strict. It's safest to assume 1.0SF when using IEC motors, because that is how you select OL relay protection, so to assume anything more than 1.0 risks losing the motor.

Assuming your repro is accurate, it is pretty clear.

220V parallel delta

380V parallel Wye (this comes directly from 220V delta)

440V series delta (the formerly paralleled windings connected in series)

It's 60 Hz, which accounts for the two weird voltages (220V and 440V)

Revised artwork for the plate:



I'm 98% confident it's all correct, thanks to your help. The only parts I'm not fully confident in are the second and third zeros in the fab number- the second is *probably* a zero, but the third is utterly obliterated by the damage to the tag.

Close examination and some careful cleaning confirms the central box says "C %FM". No S, no number, just "C %FM".

Thank you for all your help!

Doc.

DocsMachine said:

Revised artwork for the plate:

I'm 98% confident it's all correct, thanks to your help. The only parts I'm not fully confident in are the second and third zeros in the fab number- the second is *probably* a zero, but the third is utterly obliterated by the damage to the tag.

Close examination and some careful cleaning confirms the central box says "C %FM". No S, no number, just "C %FM".

Thank you for all your help!

Doc.

Click to expand...

Started to suggest that you go ahead and translate to English on the label. You don't OWE "Heneral Electrica" anything.

Second thought, lots of Latinos can read it directly.

Third thought mebbe in Alaska, not so much? How about Tlingit or Inuit?

I seriously doubt the fabrication number (serial number) is important any more. GE long ago got out of the electric motor business, most likely in Spain loooong before they did here in the US. The companies that bought out their motor works (if at all) offer no support for older versions. GE sold their motor division here to A.O. Smith, who was then later sold to Regal Beloit. The GE "Meatball" logo is still on them, but GE is no longer interested.

Monarchist said:

Started to suggest that you go ahead and translate to English on the label.

Click to expand...

-I was thinking about that.

Heck, I could redesign it any way I wanted, tag it "Doc's Motor Shop and Screen Door Factory", rate it in hamsterpower, donkey power or millinewtons, list the amperage draw in something like calories, etc.

However, I keep thinking that at some point I may well wind up selling this machine (or it'll get sold at my estate sale ) and as humorous as those sorts of things might be, they wouldn't be much help to the next guy that needs to wire it, or even just determine the HP in order to buy the right size VFD.

Switching it to English, though, is a definite possibility, and I've been strongly considering it.

I seriously doubt the fabrication number (serial number) is important any more.

Click to expand...

-Oh sure. Really, it's just a desire to do a reasonably correct reproduction, rather than needing to have it period-correct for a restoration or something.

As it is, I'll be having the numbers printed along with the rest of the artwork, rather than trying to stamp or engrave it on afterward. So it's already not "restoration correct".

Doc.

There ya go. How's that?



Doc.

DocsMachine said:

There ya go. How's that?

Doc.

Click to expand...

Gotta luv it!

Y yo puedo leer y hablar el Espanol, pero la maquina no ESTA en Espana, ademas!




Bill