Adding external controls to Teco EV Micro Drive

I purchased the Teco EV Micro drive model JNEV-101-H1. I have it connected with 115v 1PH in and 220v 3PH out to a 1HP inverter motor. Can someone assist me with wiring an external on/off switch and a potentiometer? Page 6 of the following manual has the schematic http://www.tecowestinghouse.com/Manuals/EV_Installation.pdf

For the on/off switch I assume the white wire goes to either terminal 4 -7 and the black to terminal 8? What about the ground? My potentiometer has three terminals and according to the schematic I would go to terminals 9, 10 and 11. Do I need three wire and ground? Which colour wire goes where for the potentiometer?

Thanks for any assistance.

It's pretty easy to do.

You need a good quality pot, I used the same brand pot for my VFD (different rating because mine's a hitachi). You'd use pins 9, 10, and 11. Pin 10 goes to the center lead of the pot, you change which way you turn the pot to increase speed by switching pins 9, & 11. I dunno what you're talking about with the white wire, but DO NOT HOOK AC TO A CONTROL TERMINAL!!! Your VFD would be INSTANT TOAST!!! You MUST PROGRAM the VFD before it will use the control terminals to control it. You do this I THINK by changing the F group of parameters, a little different than hitachi. You use buttons to control it, you need 2 buttons, run, stop, and a switch for forward and reverse. That's the simplest way, you hook 1 wire of each button and the switch to the common terminal. You MUST PROGRAM each terminal for it's function. You enter the F group of functions, and set each terminal's function by selecting a number. First set F005 to 002, which enables your potentiometer. Then you need to tell it you want to use the control terminals to operate the run function by setting F004 to 001. You can look at the manual to find out what each function does, and modify any function by changing the numbers after it. Change F006 to 002, that sets the control method to industry standard 3 wire. Then set F011 to 000, F012 to 001, and F013 to 006. You'll connect the other wire your run button to S1, your forward/reverse switch to S2, and the stop button to S3. When you close the switch, you get reverse. Now the Teco manual isn't very clear, industry standard 3 wire is setup so that the emergency stop button is normally closed. That way if you break the control wires, the machine stops. It doesn't specify which way it's setup, so you'll want to use SPDT buttons so you can simply change the wiring as needed. I used an arcade game button (green) with a cherry microswitch from MCM electronics for my run button. I'd get a red, and a green with two cherry microswitches for your run and e-stop buttons. Get an aluminum project box, some wire, and a connector so you can unplug the box, and you're set. Put all the guts in the box, mount it to the machine where convenient, and you're set. All the parts are available from the company linked to below. That's the potentiometer I'd use, it's kinda hard to find using the website.






http://www.mcminone.com/product.asp?product_id=501-0010&catalog_name=MCMProducts

Did you fry it?!?!?

What happened, did you toast it, electrocute yourself, or let the magic smoke out??? Anyways, MCM's website SUX for finding stuff without a catalog. So, I thought I'd post some parts I'd recommend for building your control box, and see if you'll respond. For the arcade buttons, you simply snap the cherry micro switch into the back of it. Those things take HELLA abuse in those arcade game consoles, so they should hold up good for your VFD control. Like I said, that's what I used for my run buton, and it works well. You need to choose a small switch, like a toggle or something for your reverse switch.

http://www.mcminone.com/product.asp?catalog_name=MCMProducts&product_id=26-945

http://www.mcminone.com/product.asp?product_id=26-935&catalog_name=MCMProducts

http://www.mcminone.com/product.asp?product_id=26-1058&catalog_name=MCMProducts You need two of theese.

http://www.mcminone.com/product.asp?product_id=28-8642&catalog_name=MCMProducts This is the box I used, just epoxied a magnet to it so I can move it around.

Work has been busy so I have not had a chance to get to it until today. I picked up a square box from home depot and a face plate, set up all the F-functions and wired up the switches. Long story short I have the potentiometer (variable speed) working but that is it. I understood everything you suggested but I am thinking my choice in buttons may be the problem. I am using 24 gauge wire only because I had it. Do I need heavier wire? I realized this morning the switch I intended to use would not work so I went out this morning and picked up three separate buttons for run, stop and reverse.

This is the button I purchased for reverse
http://www.thesourcecc.com/estore/P...ne&category=Switches+Switches&product=2751566

These are the two buttons I purchased for run and stop
http://www.thesourcecc.com/estore/P...ne&category=Switches+Switches&product=2750609

All three are momentary push button switches with SPST contacts rated a 1.5A.

I have one wire from the run switch going to terminal 4(S1), one wire from the reverse switch going to terminal 5(S2) and one wire from the stop switch going to terminal 6(S3). The other wire from all of these switches are connect to the common terminal 8. I followed your F function suggestions and they makes sense. I can get the VFD to drive the motor using the controls on the drive but when I convert the settings to drive from an external switch only the variable speed works.

Any suggestions

You've got it messed up a little.

akabek said:

Work has been busy so I have not had a chance to get to it until today. I picked up a square box from home depot and a face plate, set up all the F-functions and wired up the switches. Long story short I have the potentiometer (variable speed) working but that is it. I understood everything you suggested but I am thinking my choice in buttons may be the problem. I am using 24 gauge wire only because I had it. Do I need heavier wire? I realized this morning the switch I intended to use would not work so I went out this morning and picked up three separate buttons for run, stop and reverse.

This is the button I purchased for reverse
http://www.thesourcecc.com/estore/P...ne&category=Switches+Switches&product=2751566

These are the two buttons I purchased for run and stop
http://www.thesourcecc.com/estore/P...ne&category=Switches+Switches&product=2750609

All three are momentary push button switches with SPST contacts rated a 1.5A.

I have one wire from the run switch going to terminal 4(S1), one wire from the reverse switch going to terminal 5(S2) and one wire from the stop switch going to terminal 6(S3). The other wire from all of these switches are connect to the common terminal 8. I followed your F function suggestions and they makes sense. I can get the VFD to drive the motor using the controls on the drive but when I convert the settings to drive from an external switch only the variable speed works.

Any suggestions

Click to expand...

First of all, if the stop button is setup according to the industry standard, you're not going to get the motor to run unless you hold it down. You need a NORMALLY CLOSED switch, or one that can be configured either way. You've got a normally open switch, which is telling the drive to stop when it's not pressed in. Hold the stop button and see if it starts by pressing run. If so, you need a different switch, or if you can invert the inputs like you can on the hitachi, you need to program that terminal for reverse signalling. It's easier to get a normally closed switch, and safer. THat way if the drive gets disconnected from the control box, the motor stops. Now reverse should be a regular switch, not momentary I think. If you press the reverse button, the motor might start spinning in reverse. If not, try pressing the go button, while holding in the reverse button. When you release the revrse button. (if you haven't corrected the stop button, you need to hold that too) the motor will slow down, stop, then start in forward. If holding the stop button doesn't work, I've made a mistake, and you need to ask somebody else because I dunno why it doesn't work.

No matter what combination of buttons I push I get nothing. I can change the polarity of the drive with a dip switch. It also has a different terminal to connect to whether the polarity is PNP or NPN...I will give that a try short of replacing the switches.

When I first wired up the switches I had a wire on terminal 3 which is the PNP common connection. I cannot remember how the dip switch was set but the stop button was working. If I move the common wire from terminal 8 to terminal 3 I should be in business. I guess I will also have to change dip switch 1 to PNP. Am

Well, that inverts ALL the inputs.

akabek said:

When I first wired up the switches I had a wire on terminal 3 which is the PNP common connection. I cannot remember how the dip switch was set but the stop button was working. If I move the common wire from terminal 8 to terminal 3 I should be in business. I guess I will also have to change dip switch 1 to PNP. Am

Click to expand...

Changing from NPN to PNP changes all the inputs, which means your run buton won't work! It will also enable reverse by default! Try the default settings for the drive, pin 8 as your common, and see what happens when holding the stop button. It might be easier to change the control method if nothing wants to work.

OH, I JUST NOTICES SOMETHING!!! You need to enable REMOTE mode. Hold down the down arrow, and reset!!! That switches between local and remote control! Damn, I can't beleive I missed that, talk about RTFM!!!

JunkyardJ, thanks for you help. I finally have it all sorted out. I put a call into Teco and they emailed me a full version of the manual. My copy was missing about 30 pages. I picked up a 3 way switch N.O. and an emergency stop button N.O. and N.C.. When I moved the common wires to the 24v terminal it all came to life. With this set up my plate now has a fourth empty hole I will use for a pilot light. I just needs to connect a disconnect between the wall plug and the drive.

I'm glad you got it sorted out.

You could possibly put a meter for RPM or something on it, and a pilot light. There's all kinds of nifty things you can do with a VFD. You could put a light that lights up in run mode in that hole. I kinda thought that manual was a little limited, the manual for my hitachi has about 150 pages (book is .448" thick, 1 page is .003", no page numbers). It's a LOT of information, and even it's not clear enough to get everything right. It says the industry standard 3 wire has a normally closed switch for the stop button, but when I hooked everything up, the stop button was set up for normally open. Thus, the NORMALLY CLOSED ONLY big red button I bought for an e-stop didn't work until I programed the input terminal for inverted logic. You'd think they'd put a note in there somewhere about that. The other thing that got me was the 3 input leads are labeled L1, L2, and N/L3!!! Had I not looked at the schematic in the back at the internal schematic I would have put a neutral wire on L3! I'm still not sure if that would have been a direct short or not, but the point is it SHOULD have been labeled more clearly!!! A wiring diagram for single phase would be GREAT in the hitachi manual!!!