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Trying to power a Bridgeport with 110v??

Techbuilder

Plastic
Joined
Jan 1, 2011
Location
CA, USA
Hi everybody I need a little help
so basically I bought a used Bridgeport mill 1968 1hp
and my outlets at my shop are only 110v 20 amp
now I know it sounds like I should have 220 but I don't you see
my shop is like a mini where house kind of thing 110v 20amps is the most you can get in you mini warehouse. I talked to the electrician and he said the breaker is full so again 220 is not an option he said it him self.

So my question for you is how do I power a 220v 3 phase Bridgeport with 110v 20 amps?
Would one of these work?

Adjustable Frequency Drive, Teco VFD, Phase Converter, Variable Phase Output
 
OR...

Or use a step-down transformer (240:120) in the 2kva range to give you 240v @ 10A... that'll be sufficient, when wired in reverse (your 120v wall plug into the 120v side, giving you 240 out), will feed a 240v VFD. If it's not 'rated' for 3 phase, but will 'operate' (meaning, it doesn't 'fault out' due to phase loss, you could use a 3-4hp VFD to drive the BP's three-phase motor just fine.

2hp is about your ragged-edge limit, but should be within the operating realm of running your Bridgeport from a 120v 20@ outlet.
 
Because...

Because he could put a $15 transformer and a $40 VFD in with a $5 contactor and two $4 buttons and have it fully op for under $100??

(my mother's mother's mother was Scottish)
 
Decent price on the AB vfds..

Do you know if they have braking by means of a simple external resistor?

How do you talk to them without the keypad/display? Do we need a com module or some other adapter?
 
personally - I wouldn't touch a 1336 with a 10 foot pole - they typically require a separate DB resistor controller and without the keypad, you need to get a copy of "DriveLinks" $oftware. That and their performance sucks. . . besides, that they are OK drives.
 
well...

I've never used any software (thanks for the tip, though)... I just have a couple of HIMs that came with some of the drives, and I slap one in to set it up.

No special interface required for an HIM- there's a cable in the faceplate that connects to the mainboard, and the HIM slides into it.

For external DB, I just stick a pair of wirewounds on the machine and wire 'em in parallel. Can't remember what I used OTH, but it was either a pair of 50-ohm or 100-ohm... nothing critical. On a whim, I used a 500w floodlight once... kinda funny.

I don't bother shipping transformers... I usually TRIP on 'em... walking through junkyards. Most people don't recognize what they are, and scrapyards don't put a very high value on 'em for scrap. I was wandering through a scrap yard with a buddy last year, and found a pile of about 20 in the 3kva range, carried 4 of 'em out for $5 each. Would'a bought more, but we found a few other things... a Yaesu FL2100B, some breaker-panels from an F4 Phantom, a handful of s-type 1500lb load-cells, and two linear actuators from some kind of aircraft. You KNOW you're at the right junkyard when there's a half-parted-out helicopter sitting in the front driveway.

My local yard here seems to often end up with lots of food-grade scrap... there's washdown motors with stainless-steel worm-reduction drives on torched-up conveyors, plenty of control boxes loaded with contactors pushbuttons 'n stuff. Most of the transformers are either control-level, or 7+kva, and frankly, they're cheap enough that a feller could install one in his shop, and just pipe 480v single-phase to every machine... just bring a hand-dolly...

And FWIW- it may seem so, but I really don't have any allegiance to A-B... only reason why I mention 'em, is because I got some cheap, defeated the learning curve (which appears to be one of the most painful things of ANY VFD), and got 'em to do what I needed... and then, once I did, I wrote it all down, so I could do it again without giving up 3 years of my life to re-figure-it-out. To their merit, they're cheap to buy used, usually work, and perform reasonably for the circumstances. The external housings for the 'smaller' drives are rather fragile, and there ain't much space to work in the heavy-gauge wiring vicinity... so duct-tape is a common repair tool. I can't substantially compare performance to other current drives because I can't justify the expense of more recent technology, but obviously the sources from which I obtained my A-B's felt the newer competitors were better suited for their applications, and that's why there's so many used drives on the market for-dirt-cheap. From an industrial standpoint, I'm sure there's better stuff available, particularly now. It isn't, however, readily available to me for under $100 a machine.
 








 
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