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Problems with setting up WJ200 on my Toolmaster 1D

toolmaster1d

Plastic
Joined
Nov 24, 2017
Thank you for looking.
I have the WJ200 VFD connected directly to the motor leads

Motor leads
Connected line 1 to leads 1 and 7
connected line 2 to leads 2 and 8
connected line 3 to leads 3 and 9
connected leads 4+5+6 together

VFD
T1 (U) connected to leads 1 and 7
T2 (V) connected connects to leads 2 and 8
T3 (W) connected to leads 3 and 9
Connected 220 power to VFD per manual 2 hots and ground
Turned on and started the programming for the power up test. Pushed the run button at the end and got nothing out of the motor.
Display lights up run and power
Looked at some u-tube videos and found some information.
Cleared the program from my first attempt and tried the one below from u-tube, still nothing out of the motor.

Factory reset B084 set to 02 then B180 to 01 and the VFD changed to D001
Made the following changes in this order
B037 to 00
B038 to 000
B012 changed to the amps rated on my motor 7.5
A001 to 002
A002 to 002
A003 to 60hz
A004 to 60hz
A082 to 200 volts
H004 to 4 poles
Same results.
I checked the lines with a voltage detector and only detected voltage coming in the VFD, no voltage in the lines feeding the motor out of the VFD.
I'm getting better at the navigation menu but have no experience setting up a VFD.
Any help would be great.
Thank you
 
Try setting F001 to 60 Hz or whatever frequency you desire the motor to run. Without it the motor will not run.

Hitachi WJ200 manual is not the best manual for new users. It does not mention F001 and a couple more important parameters in the power up test procedure. You supposed to know all this staff on your own. Really?

I have seen similar things before. Some of the best devices have horrible manuals. I guess to design a good VFD is one thing, to write a good manual for it - is a completely different animal.

Mike
 
Thanks for your input Mike, I made the changes to F001 and now have voltage indicated going into the motor but nothing is happening, I think its time to take the motor off and have it tested.
I think the VFD is operating as it should.
 
Before you do that, check the continuity...

Disconnect from power, and use ohmmeter to check that you have a low resistance between each of the three pairs of wires from VFD to motor. If you wait about 5 min after last power-up, the voltages should be low and you will not need to remove any wires. Check from the actual terminal screw heads, not the actual wires, you want to know that there is contact with the VFD terminals.

if you find a problem, then it is time to check every connection from the VFD into the motor.

It's very easy to get a screw on top of wire insulation, or the like. Don't ask me how I know that :o
 
Still no luck,, I checked continuity both from the leads to the VFD and the leads to the fame of the motor. Its hooked up correctly. I we do some research about testing the motor windings and leads.
Thank you for your help JST
 
If you measure good winding resistance type numbers between all three wires, on the VFD screws (same reading of a few ohms on each pair), then do not assume the motor is bad.... At least as long as it is showing open from VFD leads to frame... Only one wire should have continuity to the frame, and it should be the ground wire.

If you check between the three VFD screws, and you do NOT get a low ohms reading, then you still hae a wiring issue, OR maybe the motor has a protector, and you need to find and press the red button.

So, if wiring is OK, VFD seems to be working, and motor still does not "go", then the most likely issue is some parameter setting, But I do not see how you can have good voltage out of the VFD, and not have the motor go unless the voltage is not getting thru to the motor.... or the motor is not configured right for the voltage.

Please confirm what resistance you measure between the terminals when measuring at the VFD screws.

R & S
S & T
T & R

Pic of motor plate would be good, or at least the information copied from it. It seems to be a 9 lead motor, and probably is wye, but could be delta, which connect differently.
 
I only did a continuity test yesterday, I will collect my resistance readings and get back to you.
Here is the information from motor data plate
G.E. model (5k180dj280)
2 (ab) horsepower 3 phase:
Volts 208 – 220 – 440
Amps 6/3//7.2/3.6
Cycles 60/50
RPM 1730 // 1440
Deg C Rise 40 // 50
Service factor 1.2//1
Time rating cont.
Nema design B
Frame 180Y
Type K
Code K
 
Do you have any other 3 phase motor? Can you borrow it from somebody? It does not have to be the same size. If you do, you can test the VFD functionality and your programing skills on it. That's what I did before I connected my 3 HP mill motor. I have used the 3 phase coolant pump for this test. It worked, and my confidence level went up. Just don't forget to modify the VFD parameters for a different motor.

When you check the motor winding resistance, you should expect to see readings around 1 ohm for a 2 HP motor. Make sure you check your meter first by shorting both test leads together. If it does not read 0 (zero), that's not a big deal. You can always subtract this value from your readings later on. I have good meters, but for everyday checks I mostly use "free" Harbor Freight digital meter. It is sufficient for most non-critical measurements.
 
I wanted to report back my findings.
All ohm readings were on the 200 ohm scale.
Leads from VFD to connections were all .4 ohms
Leads 2&8 to 3&9 (2.4 ohms)
Leads 2&8 to 1&7 (2.4 ohms)
Leads 1&7 to 3&9 (2.4 ohms)

Leads 1 to 2 (4.3 ohms)
Leads 1 to 3 (4.6 ohms)
leads 1 to 7,8,9 were (0 ohms)
Leads 2 to 3 (4.3 ohms)
Leads 2 to 7,8,9 were (0 ohms)
Leads 3 to 7,8,9 were (0 ohms)
Leads 7 to 8 (4.3 ohms)
Leads 7 to 9 (4.3 ohms)
Leads 8 to 9 (4.3 ohms)
7,8,9 were checked to 1,2,3 all combinations were 0 ohms
I turned on the VFD and hit run and measured each of the line voltages out of the VFD, they were all the same values.
L1 connected to 1&7 (123 volts)
L2 connected to 2&8 (123 volts)
L3 connected to 3&9 (123 volts)
I will ask my brother in law to see if he has a 3 phase motor I can test wth.
Thanks again you guys!
 
FYI,
A082 to 200 volts should be set to 220V (motor rated voltage)
H003 should be set to 06 (1.5) kW for a 2 Hp motor

I often use the WJ200 software to test and program the VFDs via a USB cable, but their software also is primitive to both install and to understand. That being said, you can run the VFD directly from your computer and do things like the motor autotune. As others have mentioned, I would try the VFD on another motor, but the motor parameters need to be set to that motor's specs. Using the software, you are also not limited with the lockouts imposed by programming from the keypad. To remove the keypad lockouts you must:
1. Change B037 to "00" for full display of all functions. You must press both the up and down arrows to access single-digit edit mode since this feature is not accessible in the default basic display. You must change B037 before you can change B031.

AND THEN
2. Change B031 to "10". This unlocks all the high level program functions for editing.
 
I think you measured everything EXCEPT the simple check we wanted....!

The simple check ws to, with everythng hooked up, but no power, measure between the three screws on the VFD motor terminals. That should include the wires between motor and VFD, the motor windings, and all the connections.

THAT is what will show what is up with wiring and motor.

The 123V between terminals seems odd... if the VFD were really trying to run the motor, it seems as if it should be 230V.

What did you measure the 123V from? Presumably one probe on a VFD terminal, WHERE WAS THE OTHER PROBE?

What you need to do is measure from one VFD terminal to the next, and check each pair that way. (and that's how you should measure the wire resistance, also, only with power off).
 
Hey guys.
(mksj)
I will try this Friday
Factory reset B084 set to 02
B180 to 01 and verify VFD changed to D001
Make the following changes in this order and pressing both the up and down arrows to access single-digit edit mode
B037 to 00
B031 to 10
B038 to 000
B012 change the amps rated on my motor 7.5
A001 to 002
A002 to 002
A003 to 60hz
A004 to 60hz
A082 to 230 volts
H003 to 6
H004 to 4 poles
Stay tuned!

(JST) first thanks for your patience, and your help
I re-measured between the screws on the VFD with no power to the machine.
They were all the same value 2.3 ohms L1 to L2 L1 to L3 L3 to L2.
I was thinking the 123 volts was odd as well.
The 123 volts was measured at the screws and nuts that holds the motor leads and wire from the VFD.
together. I placed the positive lead from my meter on the screw heads and the negative probe was grounded to the frame of the VFD via the metal bracket that holds the Vfd to the mill.
 
Here's a thought; see what the programming is for Terminals 3 [C03] and 4 [C04]. If either of those had been programmed to a value of 77 or 78, that makes them into "Safe Torque Off" (STO) inputs and would require that you have wires going to them in order to run. STO would make the drive behave exactly as you have described.

Because they are related to machine safety, I believe that once they are programmed, resetting the drive to factory defaults may NOT actually reset those two parameters, you would need to manually re-program them to something other than 77 or 78. Apparently there is also a dip switch on the drive that enables or disables this function, but there is nothing in the manual saying anything about that other than the following, when describing these safety functions un Appendix E3:
If safety function is used, activate both GS1 and GS2. If not, disable safety function by dip switch.
Nowhere else is that dip switch mentioned, but in the drawings they show that there are apparently 3 dip switches, but they only describe one of them. Very poor data management...

Also nothing says that the programming of [C03] and [C04] remain unchanged after a reset to defaults, but other drives I have worked on that have this STO capability are like that, it's part of the EU Safety Regulations that the Safety Functions cannot be accidentally turned off.
 
.....
(JST) first thanks for your patience, and your help
I re-measured between the screws on the VFD with no power to the machine.
They were all the same value 2.3 ohms L1 to L2 L1 to L3 L3 to L2.
I was thinking the 123 volts was odd as well.
The 123 volts was measured at the screws and nuts that holds the motor leads and wire from the VFD.
together. I placed the positive lead from my meter on the screw heads and the negative probe was grounded to the frame of the VFD via the metal bracket that holds the Vfd to the mill.

Ah, right then....

So, measure the voltage the same way as resistance, L1-L2, L2-L3, L3-L1. The other way you are probably not measuring the right voltage, very possible you are only measuring leakage, and in reality there is NO voltage to the motor. Or not nearly enough.
 
It is not that easy to measure the output voltage out of the VFD. The voltage output is not a sine wave, but high frequency pulses. The amplitude is the same as the DC bus voltage. Not every meter is capable of measuring that. Yesterday I have tried to get output voltage measurements on my WJ200 drive, which is fully operational, and did not get good results. HF meter showed about 30 V where it should have been 220 V. Fluke meter got better values, but still not accurate. My conclusion is 123 V between phase terminal and ground is pretty good and shows that the drive is producing some output. To know that drive is good for sure you need to substitute the motor with a known good one.
 
It is not that easy to measure the output voltage out of the VFD. The voltage output is not a sine wave, but high frequency pulses. The amplitude is the same as the DC bus voltage. Not every meter is capable of measuring that. Yesterday I have tried to get output voltage measurements on my WJ200 drive, which is fully operational, and did not get good results. HF meter showed about 30 V where it should have been 220 V. Fluke meter got better values, but still not accurate. My conclusion is 123 V between phase terminal and ground is pretty good and shows that the drive is producing some output. To know that drive is good for sure you need to substitute the motor with a known good one.

Not necessarily so.

The 123V is too close to the voltage expected from hot to ground on the incoming 230V.

It is SO EASY to just measure the voltages properly as the VFD presents them, that there is no reason to guess from some other measurement.

Any meter problem applies equally to all measurements, so that is not a reason to guess either.
 
JST, I agree with you that VFD output should be measured on the L1, L2 and L3 output terminals of the VFD. In such case you should expect to be close to voltage you specified in parameters. That is if you can measure it accurately..

All I was saying that it is difficult to obtain the precise output voltage measurements off the VFD.
 
JST, I agree with you that VFD output should be measured on the L1, L2 and L3 output terminals of the VFD. In such case you should expect to be close to voltage you specified in parameters. That is if you can measure it accurately..

All I was saying that it is difficult to obtain the precise output voltage measurements off the VFD.



It can be. You need a good "true rms" meter. The averaging style (most cheap meters) will read low by about 10% when measuring a square wave, for instance. But it should indicate SOMETHING. Which we do not currently know, because we do not have any measurement of the actual voltage that runs the motor.

We do not know that the 123V is not in-phase on all three leads, for instance.
 
Ok, today I tried to measure the volts between L1 L2 and L3 by using a Greenlee DM-20 meter.
The meter was flashing values to the rate of about 2 per sec.
It appears they are very close to the same values across the L1 L2 and L3.
The meter would flash 195, 590, 760, 1000, 1300 and then back to 195.
These number are not the actual numbers but they are very close.
I also measured the voltage comming in the the VFD and it was 123.
Hope this helps.
 
Jraef, I can see the dip switches but as you said nothing that tells me how to set them in the manual.
I will try to google it, never know.
 








 
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