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Wiring Questions replacing an import motor with a Baldor. Diagram, and pict inside

rbthntr64

Plastic
Joined
Dec 14, 2007
Location
USA
Hello,
Newbie here and need help swapping out the motor on my Birmingham YCL-1236GH lathe. I picked up a replacement Baldor to replace the burned up import. I had it checked and the shop told me the start winding was shot. Both motors are 6 lead, but the pictoral doesn't do much to aid in determining which wire is which. any help is greatly appreciated!

YCL1236diagram_zps284377c0.jpg


baldorD90L_zps21b916f7.jpg
 
A single phase motor needs only two "hot" wires connected to two "line" wires in the motor's junction box.

And you didn't take notes or put a voltmeter on the leads before you dismantled the connections?

The Baldor diagram is just confusing you, the start winding, the capacitor, etc. should be tucked inside the machine, and you shouldn't need to adjust those details.

If the motor reverses, well, yes, the wires involved will be brought out to a contactor,

Ignoring any reversing feature, you want to take four wires and create two connections of two wires each.

Figure out the two "hot" wires on the lathe when the lathe is running, and determine the "line" wires on the motor, perhaps by reading the wiring schematic usually glued to the inside of the junction box cover.
 
I got the lathe with the motor already removed. My dilemma is translating the baldor wires to the import motor wires. The front/ rear terms on the spindle switch translate from Chi-English as Fwd/Rev. Here is the control box diagram.

scan0001_zps3f93375c.jpg
 
Because that single phase reversible two speed motor is switching between all of its features, all of those wires need to be brought out of the motor to contactors in the electrical enclosure.

When those connections were severed, it is possible that small stubs of the wire were left behind, to clue the (next) technician about the connections? Were the terminals left loose, as a hint?

At this point, where were the connections severed? Do you have a wiring bundle flopping around in the motor area?

Have you seen this tutorial: http://www.practicalmachinist.com/v...g-switch-motor-257832/index3.html#post1942952 Iron_Junkie does an excellent job of crafting tutorials on motor hook-ups, perhaps you can enlist his help?

Do you have a multi-meter? I suspect you will need one.

In the meantime, you could read this thread: http://www.practicalmachinist.com/v...2-speed-reversible-motor-heavy-ten-sb-129644/
 
If the wiring harness is not flopping around in the cabinet with bare ends (put some wire nuts on the ends?), then you could power up the machine and activate the pertinent switches/buttons.

Since you need to watch/listen to the contactors while doing this, you may need to override the cabinet cover interlock with a jumper wire.

There is an excellent chance that you have pairs of contactors, which are mechanically interlocked, to avoid multiple choice activations.

Set the machine to Low, Forward.

When you activate the Start/Stop switches on Low, Forward, you should be hearing clunking noises in the cabinet. Which contactor(s) is that contactor when Start/Stop is activated? Mark that contactor(s) as Start/Stop Low-Forward .

When you activate the Low/High switch, which contactor(s) is activated? Mark that contactor as Low/High.

Set the machine to High, Forward.

When you activate the Start/Stop switches on High,Forward, which contactor is activated? Mark that contactor as Start/Stop High-Forward. Most likely, the same Start/Stop contactor as used for Low, Forward.

When you activate the Forward/Reverse switch, which contactor(s) is activated? Mark that contactor(s) as Forward/Reverse.

Set the machine to High, Reverse.

When you activate the Start/Stop switches on High, Reverse, which contactor(s) is activated? Mark that contactor(s) as Start/Stop High-Reverse. Most Likely, the same Start/Stop contactors used for Start/Stop as the two previous Start/Stop tests.


If you are having trouble with this procedure, find a math major that is fascinated with combinatorics.
 
With help from Larry at Sedalia Electric Motors, he shot the windings to determine what was what on the old motor, and this is what we came up with. Ops check good in forward and reverse. Many thanks to the replies here as well. They gave me a better understanding of what I was looking for.

baldorD90Lfinal_zps7752edba.jpg


ycl-1236002_zpsa950f50e.jpg
 
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