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Putting my phase converter together

housedad

Aluminum
Joined
Oct 2, 2009
Location
NJ USA
I decided to make a phase converter using a pre made electrical panel. This thread is to chronicle the learning curve, layout, procurement and installation.

To begin, I really had only a surface understanding of a rotary phase converter. I knew it was single phase in and 3 phase out. Not much knowledge there.

It became time to start reading and digging on the net. Learned about 3 phase power, how 3 phase motors work, starting needs, correct sizing for demand, Phase shifting, voltage, balancing, and on and on. and trying to follow all of the myriad designs for converters there are on the net. I quickly found that putting my own panel together would be a fairly simple problem, but one that I don't have enough time to dedicate to. Then I found the pre-made panels on Ebay. Some of the panels were really overpriced, and some were really poor design or quality. A couple stood out, with one in the lead. Phase-Craft.

After scratching and digging for a while, I decided to use the Phase-Craft panel. From reading his ads, his postings on different forums and what people said about him, Jim (owner) seemed to be a stand up person that made a quality product. The price was a big bonus. Sizing for my needs would be a 5hp converter Panel.

I contacted Jim via email with several questions about line and motor voltages, transformers, idle motors, and even if he could put the toggle switch on the other side of the cabinet. (He said he could). I had a idle motor that I was looking at, and he reviewed the Craigslist ad and said it would work fine. All this on a SUNDAY. With customer service like that, I was sold. So, $139 late, one is on it's way. (Thanks, Jim!)

The motor on my Milling machine (2J Head) is 2hp, and takes 6.8amps at 200 volts.(also 400) However, the 2 phase line is 240volts true. Since it is 240volts in to the converter and that give 240 volts out, I could see this was a problem. I asked Jim about it and he mentioned that I could add a Buck Boost transformer to drop the voltage. This was something new to me, so there proceeded a bout of reading and studying about what buck boost transformers do. (the things we have to learn to make our toys work!)

After a bit of reading, I found that it is really nothing more than a set of coils on a core that can be wired together in different ways to produce different voltages depending on how they are connected and where you tap the line and load. Buck means it will output a lower voltage than input, and boost means it will increase. Dead simple, but they describe it and the ways to wire it in a confusing manner.

Anyway, I found an picked out a buck boost transformer that should size to the 5hp panel well. A Franklin Electric 416-1241-000 750VA 240x120VAC TO 32x16VAC. This one is good to 26.6 input amps and 23.4 output amps at 212v out 240V in. 212V is a heck of a lot easier on the motor than 240. Considering it is a $100 part, it seems like a good investment to save a $800 to $1000 motor from burning up. Considering it is a home shop machine, I won't be using the mill heavily so hopefully there will not be too much heat created from the 200V to 212 volt spread. The thing here is to remember to try to sixe the voltage of the buck boost transformet to the idle motor and the load motor as well as you can. I should add that this voltage drop is done on the 240V (input) side. Some people use two transformers and change the voltage on the 3 phase side. with a phase converter, that seems to only make sense for when you have more than one motor you are runnin on 3 phase and one of them needs a different voltage.

Next, I needed a Idle motor. I chuckle a bit when I read the word Idle. That motor may not be doing mechanical work, but it is working nonetheless. It is acting as a generator using the rotary motion created by the 2 phase input driving the motor around. The windings on the third phase leg are being energized by the fields created by the other sets of windings and that way the third leg of the 3 phase is created. As a generator, it is definitely working.

Found this 5HP motor on Craigslist. Never used and came in the original box. An attempt to shorten the shaft ended up shortening it too much. Guy could not use it and sat in his garage for years. I couldn't care if it even had a shaft sticking out at all. An expensive mistake to do with a $450+ motor, but it worked out in my favor. $125. it does 208 and 230 volts. I chose a transformer to try to get it close to the 208V.

126856-image11-resize.jpg


As of now, just waiting for the panel and Buck Boost transformer to arrive, then pictures and on to designing the installation.
 
Hi, Housedad. Your panel is on its way, switch mounted on the right side as requested. You'll probably receive it Friday or Saturday. I've been a day or two behind since around Christmas time. Sales have doubled, and I'm putting in some long days. I'm bringing my son into the business soon to help me keep up. I've been wanting to do that for some time, and now the time is right.

It sounds like you've done a lot of research on phase conversion lately, and your knowledge of the subject is excellent. You mentioned that some people use two single phase transformers on the output to change the voltage on the output side. This is known as an "open delta" configuration, and I'm glad you chose not to go that route for your installation. The single buck/boost transformer on the input side is not only cheaper, but much better. The open delta method on the output is usually done with a couple of 240-480 volt single phase transformers to increase the 240 volt output to 480, but adding the extra inductive load across only two of the three phases, can throw your voltage balance way off. For anyone considering this method, I would highly recommend not doing it.

Be very careful when wiring up that buck/boost, because as you mentioned, it's a very versatile device with a lot of different ways to connect it. The good news is, they work like a charm.

-Jim
 
Jim,

You said you will be bringing your son into the business. That is wonderful. I hope you business becomes a "family" business for many generations. Congratulations on the growth of your business.

Vlad
 
AI think I will like it too. I'm looking forward to being able to energise my mill.

Jim, Thankis for all the input, information, and relocating the switch. I think the installation will go well. As you mention, I do want to make sure the transformer is wired up correctly and installed safely. If I am not sure, I will have you review it as I go.

Jim makes this a painless project. Kudos!!!
 
The panel came today, and I'm tickled pink. It is a really nicely laid out panel, all the wiring is neat and orderly. It comes in a Hoffman enclosure, and that is a big plus.. I like Hoffman enclosures. The switch relocation is perfect. Instructions are easy to read and follow.

The transformer came, a bit of a heavy beast. Instructions included and easy to follow. Fully potted unit. I foresee no problems.

I also picked up a 3 pole fusible safety switch, 30 amp Eaton for the 3 phase output. Since it is only powering the Mill at 7 amps max, I have 10 amp fuses for it.

The feeder line into this for now is a 20 amp 240 line from inside the house (A.C outlet) about 10 feet way. I just have to run the cord (12 ga. soow) from the panel, through a door and right into a window. Until I can get a sub panel installed in the garage this summer, this will have to do. Plug it in when needed and wrap it up when not. (7 amp motor times 1.5=10.5 amps plus 3 amps idle motor give max draw of 13.5 amps. 20 amp feed circuit seems plenty)

All the wiring that I will use in the box will be 10 gauge THWN, though. That way, if needs change in the future after the sub panel install, All I have to do is change the cords (or direct wire it) to come up to full capacity. . Idle motor will get 10 gauge.

The Bridgeport has a 12 gauge cable. after 30+ years in a shop environment, most of the wires on the machine are in poor condition. The power cord gets replaced and Leviton 30 amp bayonet plug/receptacle installed. There will be a pigtail hanging from the safety switch with the receptacle end.(Leviton 2423 and 2421)

Tomorrow morning I get to go to the local electrical store and get the wires. Hopefully these boxes will get mounted and wired tomorrow. Pictures when it happens.
 
Sounds good to me ;)

Hi, Steve. How's it going? I'm still thinking about the website we talked about, and if I do it, you'll be the one I have create it for me. Before I get around to that, though. I have to figure out how to keep up. About half of my sales now aren't even coming from eBay, so I suspect they're coming from PM (some I know are), and some other forums. I'm still thinking about relocating, so I want to get that sorted out first.

I have a question for PM members: To build my panels, I have to use a template to mark out where the holes go, then I have to center-punch everything, then I have to drill, then I have to de-burr the holes on both sides. It's time-consuming, messy, and a pain in the ass. I was thinking of building a punch and die setup that I could put in my 20 tom shop press, and punch out all the holes at once. The disadvantage to that, is if I make changes, I'd have to modify it. The advantages would be nice clean slugs instead of shreds of metal everywhere, and it would be fast.

The other option is, a CNC mill or drill setup, which would still produce the much-hated metal shreds everywhere, but would be easy to reprogram if I made changes. I've seen cheap Chinese-made bench top routers that might do the job, but I'm drilling 14 gauge steel, and I don't think they'd hold up well for that, if they'd even work at all. The better quality CNC mils are pretty expensive. I have an old Bridgeport that might be able to be converted to CNC, but I think I'm still looking at quite a bit of money.

What I would consider the best of all worlds, would be a CNC punch machine, but I don't even now exactly what I'm looking for. Is there a programmable machine that will punch holes out of a 4" deep sheet metal box? I need it to punch holes in three different diameters. I currently do that with a step drill, and a mill could be made to do that with different Z-axis depths, but a punch would have to have tool changing capabilities, and that would probably also be quite expensive.

<I probably should have started a whole new thread for this...>
 
Hi,,,

Ever hear of a Jig? A jig is a simple fixture that is made to speed up production and accurately locate and drill holes.

I would take piece of 3/8" steel tool plate and cut it to the shape of the panel back. Then locate and drill all the different holes you want in the back panel of your box into the "jig" plate. That's all there is too it :)

When you're ready to build a panel just lay the jig on the back panel of your box and use a hand drill to zip right through that thin metal. No need to measure, draw or center punch the box. Insert the Drill into the hole in the jig plate and let her rip :) Also keep a second hand drill ready with a chamfer tool and use that to deburr the holes..

Using the 3/8 metal will let you have a jig that should last a long time.. If the Jig holes get too big you can always bore them out and install inserts to bring the holes back to size. OR just flip the plate around and drill new holes... You can also use the same plates if something changes, just put in the new holes and close off the old ones...

Depending on the number of holes needed you should be able to knock out a box in under 5 minutes :)
 
Yeah, a drill jig is what you want. Turns it into a (sort of) mindlessly efficient task.
 
I thought about making a jig, and that would still save me a lot of time. If I go that route, I should probably install inserts when I build it. If I wait until it gets sloppy, it'll be harder to maintain accuracy with the hole locations when I add inserts later. I still like the punch idea, but I could make a pretty nice jig in a couple of hours. What I really need, is a robot to build the whole panel, and I just pack it and ship it, and go to the bank occasionally.
 
I thought about making a jig, and that would still save me a lot of time. If I go that route, I should probably install inserts when I build it. If I wait until it gets sloppy, it'll be harder to maintain accuracy with the hole locations when I add inserts later. I still like the punch idea, but I could make a pretty nice jig in a couple of hours. What I really need, is a robot to build the whole panel, and I just pack it and ship it, and go to the bank occasionally.

So how many holes and what kind of tolerances are we talking about here? Personally I would build it without the guides but I have an advantage and have a machine that can easily rebore the holes if they were to get too big,,,, The machine is a Jig Borer :D
 
A few comments:

You will not go wrong using a single buck transformer on the input. But if you had decided for whatever
reason to use two on the output, that is not open delta. The correct approach to buck/boost, on three
phase service, is to use two and ONLY two transformers.

Another point of order is that motors run on slightly higher voltage will draw *less* current rather than
more. Want to run a 240 volt motor somewhat hotter? Run it off 208.

You won't go wrong doing what you did, but if you investigate the specs on your mill's motor, you'll
probably find it would run fine on 240 as well.
 
A few comments:

You will not go wrong using a single buck transformer on the input. But if you had decided for whatever
reason to use two on the output, that is not open delta. The correct approach to buck/boost, on three
phase service, is to use two and ONLY two transformers.

Perhaps I'm misunderstanding your statement. Two single phase transformers on a three phase output IS an open delta. Why would two single phase transformers on a three phase output be better than three?
 
Read up on the manufacturer's wiring for buck/boost transformers. It's NOT open delta
because one utility leg runs straight through to the load motor. The other two legs are
autotransformed up (or down) in voltage with respect to the single line that rides right
through.

The effective phantom neutral voltage is shifted away from zero but for a three phase
load, that does not matter. But the end result is that all three phases have a) the correct
voltage with respect to each other, b) the correct phase relationships, and c) the same
low source impedance.

This is how the transformer manufacturers WANT them to be used. If they could
get you to buy three of them by convincing you it would be 'better,' they would.

They don't.
 
A delta is a triangle. If you remove one side of that triangle, you have an open delta.

Assuming everything is properly balanced to begin with, the two main factors that affect the voltage balance between phases in a rotary phase converter system, are the mechanical load, and the inductive load. Adding the inductive load of a transformer on only two of those phases, throws everything out of whack. I've proven it through testing, and I've seen the results when some of my thousands of customers have tried it. I will continue to give my customers the correct information, and that is NOT to use an open delta configuration on the output of an RPC.
 
So how many holes and what kind of tolerances are we talking about here? Personally I would build it without the guides but I have an advantage and have a machine that can easily rebore the holes if they were to get too big,,,, The machine is a Jig Borer :D

I generally have somewhere between 11-15 holes in four sizes. The holes for mounting the components need to be pretty accurate, but the hole sizes are large enough to allow for maybe .010" of slop, as long as they're all not off. The extra holes to mount the box aren't as critical. Since I'm currently using a sheet metal template and then center punching them by hand, a drill jig would easily be as accurate as my template, and would remove the inaccuracy of eyeballing the punch.

I've been building these so long now, that it's doubtful I'd ever want to rearrange component positions at this point. That's all been pretty well fine tuned. A jig would be a step in the right direction. It could have all the holes for any type of converter, and I simply use the ones I need. At some point though, I'd like to eliminate all those little metal burrs from my life (and hands), and just have a pile of slugs to deal with.

If I were to have someone build a punch and die fixture that could punch maybe 20 holes so I could use it with anything, what is something like that likely to cost? I realize this is a somewhat vague question, but I'm just trying to figure out if it's even within the realm of possibilities right now.


Bill: I've also thought about subbing it out to a sheet metal shop as you've suggested, but unless I did pretty large quantities at a time, I think the unit cost would be too high. I should look into that, though.
 
With the proper jig, fitted with locating fences on the edges, dedicated hand drill for each hole size and one with a deburring bit I just don't see how this method would take over 5 minutes per box.. At least 10 boxes per hour for a slow worker...

Setting up a machine, making a plate and die, punching holes in a deep box and steep tooling up costs are just some of the problems and expenses you face.

Would make a great part time, after school, job for one of the 84% of the US's teenagers without one....
 
Over the years the Acme Transformer catalog has been my go to source for application information on transformers. They have great information on the application of many special situations, and the buck boost section is no exception. There's a list of do's and dont's, lots of useful information in there, for users of transformers, all in one place. You can find on online flash copy here, at the bottom there is a download link to save a copy.

ACM_CAT_007_0913

While I'm at, it here's a page with their non standard three phase voltage applications, there are many useful special applications in here as well, using single phase units for three phase applications.

http://www.acmetransformer.com/en/resources/nonstandard-3phase-apps

I have used many of these special applications and have had no problems, when used as directed.

When using three phase buck boost transformers one needs to match the supply system type and the load system type, not just the voltage ratios. Y, Delta, Open Delta they are different and it matters which type you have for a supply source and what type your load want's to see. In my experience standard 9 lead dual voltage induction motors don't really care what type system they run on.

Loads with electronic controls may be a different issue, especially if they were designed to run on a Y system with its common. If the machine nameplate calls for 200-208V or 277/480 it may be likely designed to run on a Y, and can encounter problems if connected to a Delta or Open Delta source. Usually a call to the manufacturer will resolve what type system their equipment will run on. Most CNC and printing presses manufacturers I call, want a dedicated isolation transformer, Y output, for each machine load, to give the customer a warranty and support.

In the case of a standard 9 lead dual voltage motor used as a RPC, I would view that as a 3W Y output, with the 4th wire common not brought out to the connection box. When I look up a 3W Y buck boost input, it shows an Open Delta output as approved, and the Closed Delta output as Do Not Use. The notes specifically address the issue of a Closed Delta output.

15. Why isn’t a closed delta buck-boost connection recommended?

A closed delta buck-boost auto transformer connection requires more transformer KVA than a “wye” or open delta connection
and phase shifting occurs on the output. Consequently the closed delta connection is more expensive and electrically inferior to other three-phase connections.

I read this as more expensive, less efficient, still possible, and not UL listed by the manufacturer for use.

For those electronic loads requiring a Y input, when I look at the buck boost table for a Y output, it shows that a 4W Y input is required to use the buck boost arrangement, not something you get from a standard RPC. In this case a full isolation transformer would be required.

I think that all this discussion and detail is over the head of your average RPC user, and that a buck boost before the RPC is the simplest as long as they only need a single voltage. If they wanted 2 voltages from the same RPC for different loads, then a full isolation unit would be a no brainer, and a buck boost with open delta output would require some on the ground investigation. Plain Jane induction motors wont care either way.

I would think that to better maintain RPC balance when using a Open Delta buck boost on the output, it would behoove you to keep the transformer connections on the two utility supplied legs, and let the generated (wild) leg pass through untouched, for no added impedance/ inductance to affect its output, and the affect on the utility supplied legs would be negligible.

SAF Ω
 








 
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