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W & S #3 serial no. question

calvin b

Hot Rolled
Joined
Nov 29, 2007
Location
E-burg MD USA
Hello YA'll,
I've come across a nice no. 3 that appears to have two serial numbers.
First is 528067
Second is 1769241
My question is.. does the second serial number indicate a factory service/modification/rebuild ? Just what does it mean ?
Thanks in advance for any help with this minor conundrum.
Stay safe
Calvin B
 
Possibly

First number is from 1941. Second number is from 1960



Hello YA'll,
I've come across a nice no. 3 that appears to have two serial numbers.
First is 528067
Second is 1769241
My question is.. does the second serial number indicate a factory service/modification/rebuild ? Just what does it mean ?
Thanks in advance for any help with this minor conundrum.
Stay safe
Calvin B
 
Thank you for your prompt reply Mr. Oder Sir,
Sorry for my somewhat delayed thanks....
So the machine is still in 'transit'.. So I've been trying to familiarize myself with it's operation.. To That end I have some tooling catalogs and have managed to acquire a copy of Warner & Swasey's ' Turret Lathe Operator's Manual' authored by J. R. Longstreet and W.K.Bailey.. and owned by one H.O. Anderson, Euclid Oh. ( as evidenced by the signature on the inside cover )..
Anyhow the one operation that seems to be eluding me is how to set up and use a knurling tool on the cross slide ? I have a fair idea of how it operates from the ram but can one be mounted on the cross slide to do long knurls ? Any explanation or pictures would be much appreciated.
Thanks in advance...
Stay safe
Calvin B Haxton
 
Anyhow the one operation that seems to be eluding me is how to set up and use a knurling tool on the cross slide ? I have a fair idea of how it operates from the ram but can one be mounted on the cross slide to do long knurls ?

If you refer to M-907 or M-940, (or even the huge M-676!) these are knurling tools for turret and have a shank to stick in turret. The shank is hollow, allowing "long knurls" within the tool's capacity to pass into turret

Why do you suppose this tool can be used in the cross slide?:confused:

I guess a custom block could be made to fit in the tool post and hang on to the tool's shank
 
Hello Mr. Oder sir,
Sorry I'm a product of the modern school school system.. I was some what unclear in my question.. So allow me to try the question again. I understand how the turret mounted knurling tools work. My question is.. Does any one know of a knurling tool that can be mounted on the cross slide..
Like this example: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z35amztGBdE ( my apologies in advance for the porn music..) Is this a Warner & Swasey tool or some other ? I'm pretty sure I ran a W&S many years ago that had this type of set up..
Thanks for your reply
Stay safe
Calvin B
 
There are several styles of knurling tools that can be used on the cross slide. I like the "self-equalizing scissor" style (such as Eagle Rock still produces) as it minimizes the side thrust on the part and makes height adjustment pretty tolerant.

I don't have the W&S tooling catalog at hand to see what they offered a half-century ago.
 
DSCF3554 (Large).jpgHey YA'll,
My M-1200 finally made it's way into the frozen hell that is my shop... I've been slowly familiarizing myself with it's workings... What a useful and fascinating machine ! There are two notes in the electrical cabinet.. One says rebuilt 1961 and another says rebuilt 1972.. Ways appear to replaceable... But so much for all that... I have a few questions...
1: the stop roll on the carriage.. should it have detents that stop it at the numbers ? and is it to be manually indexed or is there a mechanism to 'automatically' rotate it ?
2: there is a square headed screw on top of the apron.. What is it's purpose ? All I find in the manual is 'pin'..
Many thanks for any help
Stay safe
Calvin B Haxton
 
1- yes, there should be detents, and yes it's manually indexed.

2- thats just a taper pin to align the apron with the carriage, the square head makes it easy to pull during disassembly. Just leave it alone unless you are removing the apron.
 
Thanks Mud, Sir
Yeah I seemed to remember the stop roll having a detent but that was many years ago and the mind fails with age... There is a set screw with a spring and ball that I assume is the detent to the right of the kick out... Either the ball has gone missing or the detents are clogged with grease.. ( the oil plug has been replaced with a zerk ). I'll clean things up when it warms up a bit.. To cold at the moment.
Just an observation... this machine has more grease fittings than the backhoe that was used to unload it.. I've never seen a machine with so many grease fittings !
Stay safe
Calvin
 
Hey Ya'll,
Progress has been made... I now have the machine under power and properly lubed ( type 'O' ngli is hard to come by, by the way ).. Everything works as it should.. I do, how ever, have a clutch question.. Clutch feels fine in reverse but in 'forward' it takes quite a bit of effort to engage it.. It doesn't 'grab' or slip.. it just takes a lot of force. IS this 'normal' or should I adjust it to need less of a super human effort to engage ? Or perhaps, should I just run it for a bit and see if it loosens up ? ( Machine sat for who knows how long )
Thanks in advance
Stay safe
Calvin
 
Hey YA'll,
Just thought I share a picture or two with you of the old no#3 making a little money.. Nothing fancy just a spacer for a customer..
Oh and I got the clutch issue sorted, The hi-low clutch wasn't adjusted properly.
Sure is nice having a lathe with a powered ram.. Drill is 1 inch btw.
Enjoy
Stay safe
Calvin
 

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