Bought an older 1940s table saw and have a few questions.

hit a yard sale today and happened upon a 1940s table saw. Absolutely love it. It's built like a mac truck. It's in really nice condition with a couple minor issues, like the arbor bearings are fairly dry and so I decided to replace or...... attempt to grease them. As soon as I got it home, I tore it apart. Cabinet is going to get painted up, but I'm having real issues getting the shielded bearings out of the arbor. The problem is the shaft. On one side I have the backing washer for the blade, and on the other side of the hub is the pulley, which came off after a great deal of struggle. I removed a "C" clip on the shaft up against the inner bearing race, and attempted to drive the shaft through but it absolutely is a no go. The blade backing washer likewise seems to be a no go either. I've resorted to using wedges and then center hitting the shaft but it's not giving at all, and I'm holding back on account of not wanting to do any damage. I've soaked the bearing to shaft points of contact with WD 40, PB blaster...... contemplating using heat since it's all cast iron and hell for stout. Any thing I'm missing here? I'm sorry I have no photos of my own, the camera batteries are dead. The photos I included here are from the craigslist ad. Thank you to anyone who can coach me. Wisdom at my age has nudged me to stop and seek advice. So I'm in a waiting pattern!

You need to support the arbor casting as you push so it does not snap. Something like a piece of angle iron on each side. I advise heating until the penetrating oil catches on fire. repeat a few times then push while hot. Remember it has been locked in place for over 50 years a few extra days of soaking can not hurt.
Remember you need heat not temperature to get the job done.
Any idea on make?

A press like a harmonic balancer puller might work well for this job if the arbor is out of the base.
Bill

Thank you Car2 and Bill! This is a Montgomery Ward Powercraft, but it's built exceptionally well, I mean very nicely done. The hand cranks are solid cast, no skeletonizing or voids. I'll get some picture up here as soon as I buy a battery for my camera. You'll be impressed with it.

That backing washer which is about 5/8 inch thick is set right directly against the inner bearing race and then there was a "C" clip in a groove on the shaft up against the inner race of the other bearing. The thing is literally bright and shiny, There simply is not a spec of rust on the shaft or the bearings. The hub that the bearings reside in is very hefty, and I have supported it during tapping sessions with a block of wood on the pulley end of the shaft. Only thing I can figure is that there's another "C" clip inside the hub, between the bearings up against the inner race on the backside of the arbor bearing.

I hate short cutting things but after heating the hub, the bearings spin perfectly fine now, so the grease just softened up a bit, so I was contemplating drilling a small hole through the shields on each bearing and greasing them with a syringe. I'd rather replace them with American made bearings but I'm fearful of damaging something such as a machined surface that houses one of those bearings. The electric motor runs fabulous and coasts down for quite awhile so I know that they are fine but I'm going to still check those. Each end of the motor has a cap with 4 wings on it as if I need a special socket to open them up. The motor is a C&K or a K&C, can't remember but I'll check it out again when I head out to the shop. Thanks again guys!

I'd post an inquiry on the OWWM site, you'll find someone who's familiar with your specific saw.

Old Woodworking Machines - Old Woodworking Machines

I just got there. Fabulous site. Thank you!

I did manage to get the arbor out and I won't go into elaborate details about how exactly I did it because it was extremely crude and I certainly risked damaging the saw beyond repair but I felt certain that there was a clip on the inside of the hub, and I needed to peer inside so I surgically destroyed the pulley side bearing enough to send down two fine drift punches to the other bearing on the blade side, and hit that bearing HARD! it reluctantly came out and it was then that I saw that the shaft had some harsh scoring down the last two thirds as they drove down the bearing onto it, up against the arbor stop. In other words, a very tight fit. Pulley side bearing popped right off the shaft and out of the hub assembly. The other bearing absolutely would not come off the shaft and I never even saw a seam between the bearing and the arbor backer, so I surgically (I'm wincing even admitting this) ground with a thin cutoff wheel, the outer bearing race, dropped the ball bearings out, then ground the inner bearing race right up to the point that I was going to hit the shaft and the arbor backer, then called it a night, at 3 AM this morning. Today, I'm going to get a battery for the camera, and I'm going to gently attempt to slide that inner race off, then it's off to locate 2 shielded number 7120 bearings, that I cannot find anywhere on the web. I'm hoping that there's a cross ref somewhere! I might have the place I work at, though laid off right now, see if they can shave off a thousandth in their lathe...........