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Building a Gerstner (not the kit)

Lanso

Cast Iron
Joined
Mar 16, 2013
Location
Cerritos, CA
I've read some old posts about Gerstner chests and some were saying that they were just elementary, no big deal, most amateur woodworkers could build one etc. However I haven't yet seen anyone that has tried, yes a lot of us have built our own design but I'm asking who has tried and yes all the operations are elementary but there are so many set-ups that it becomes not that simple.
We machinists are quite familiar with machine set-up but when it comes to wood It's a different story.

What do you think?
 
I can't do anything with wood. It splits; metal doesn't.

That said, I have a 26" oak Gerstner with riser I bought in '71 so I'd look like an old-timer. It has the usual flat drawers for all my mikes and scales...but they aren't deep enough for the electronic tools we use today. So if you're going to make one, by all means copy the finish and the mirror and the green felt, but make the drawers wide and deep like a mechanic's box. And put positive stops on them. And you could probably skip the Handbook drawer. Or reproportion it for a calculator.
 
Yes! I agree especially with the handbook drawer, I rarely look at it, the smart phone in my pocket is always with me and I can see the words.
 
What specific questions/concerns do you have about making this chest.
It is a very straightforward build.
 
I know it's a straight forward build - everyone says that - i've built 2 O31 cases so my first question is: have you built any? It would be fun to talk to someone who has also has.
For example did you find 1/2" qtr. sawn oak 9" wide? or did you glue it? Did you grind 4/4 to 1/2" or did you re-saw? Did you re-saw from what? 6/4 giving enough for 2, 1/2" finished pieces? or 8/4 giving 2, 1/2 and 3/8 for drawer fronts? we're still milling lumber here, did any re-sawn pieces cup? (I re-sawed from 6/4
What joinery did you choose for the case? Finger or dovetail? (I chose dovetail
If finger joint how did you cut 1/4" fingers in 8.5"
How did you route the 6mm drawer slide slots in the sides and divider to keep them accurate so your drawer building went smooth? (I built jigs for my pin router.
 
I put together a "middle box" after the Gertsner.
English Walnut with Carpithian Elm Burl front face.
Leather topped.

It's my wife's sewing box. Sits on a special stand.
Did that piece in a wood butchers shop. The only metal work was the front cover pivot plate and pins.

The box would just be more parts.

Alu drawer bottoms helps alot!
 
I know it's a straight forward build - everyone says that - i've built 2 O31 cases so my first question is: have you built any? It would be fun to talk to someone who has also has.
For example did you find 1/2" qtr. sawn oak 9" wide? or did you glue it? Did you grind 4/4 to 1/2" or did you re-saw? Did you re-saw from what? 6/4 giving enough for 2, 1/2" finished pieces? or 8/4 giving 2, 1/2 and 3/8 for drawer fronts? we're still milling lumber here, did any re-sawn pieces cup? (I re-sawed from 6/4
What joinery did you choose for the case? Finger or dovetail? (I chose dovetail
If finger joint how did you cut 1/4" fingers in 8.5"
How did you route the 6mm drawer slide slots in the sides and divider to keep them accurate so your drawer building went smooth? (I built jigs for my pin router.

I have built similar things. I own a custom furniture business, and have been at this for a while.

I am lucky to have access to 1/4 sawn white oak in most widths. As a rule, anything under 12" wide is fine as one panel. (there is a good reason hobby planers are 13" width). For a 1/2" panel it is best to resaw from 5/4 or 6/4 depending on how straight the workpiece is to begin with. 1/4 sawn material doesn't move too much, so I wouldn't worry about it. Woods that like to move the most are hard maple and similar. Oak is very stable, especially 1/4 sawn.

I'd grab the drawer front out of another piece of that 5/4 board. Don't resaw longer than you have to. If your case is going to be 20" tall, then resaw 23" or so, then resaw for the front.

I would also grain match the drawer fronts. You can grab the locking front panel and the fronts out of the same board.

Resaw tip, make sure you start with properly jointed stock. Achieve your final thickness through the planer or drum sander.

For something like that, I'd either use dovetails, mortise and tenon, or just tongue and groove. Either will be plenty strong for what you need.

Templates and a pin router is certainly a good way to go about it.

15857476_10211980232369325_543112680_o.jpg
 
If interested in building one there are some great plans in the toolbox book The Toolbox Book: A Craftsman's Guide to Tool Chests, Cabinets, and Storage Systems (Craftsman's Guide to) by Jim Tolpin by Jim Tolpin. I built mine in highschool shop class. The first year I built their roll around floor standing "tablesaw helper box" it is a handy box that has 5 draws and is the right height to catch boards off a table saw. Then senior year came the Gerstner. The fun thing with the tablesaw box was that you built it up bit by bit. The Gerstner was another animal. That thing you made part after part day by day and they all piled up. Then one day you started assembly and it came together in a period of a few days. Granted we only had about 1.5hrs a day of class to work on it.

My shop teacher did have me simplify some of the jointing in the Gerstner I built and there were some sacrifices made but the two boxes are still a valued part of my shop to this day.

The other funny part was the shop teacher wasn't happy with me as my projects "inspired" quite a few other students to be too ambitious on their projects and he wound up with a lot of piles of cut up useless wood from many others. As it is looking back on it I recall the tablesaw box went fast and I finished that with time to spare in the school year. The Gerstner was another story, I think I may have even had to finish putting on the polyurethane at home as it took the whole semester and there was a lot of concern if I would get it done in time.

It was a great project though and one I would recommend as you will always have these boxes.
 
Thanks guys for all your input.
I'm building two style 31 cases, one oak and one walnut. Cases are finished and started the drawers today and having a great time with this project, a lot of set-ups and jigs/fixtures which is what I always liked in the manufacturing business.
 
We machinists are quite familiar with machine set-up but when it comes to wood It's a different story.

What do you think?

It's no different. What you might think is a complex project can be broken up into smaller pieces. As long as you use backup pieces or masking tape when cutting with sharp saw blades.

The pictures make me think about making one. Just what I need, another tool chest. My Kennedy's will be jealous. :nopity:
 
I have had several Gerstner boxes and they are very nice. My current one is not my favorite, as it is an older model that was wrapped in black "leather". If a guy has plenty of free time, a planer, table saw, sander and hand tools, it would be no problem to build one to suit your needs. If I were to build one, I would choose quarter-sawn white oak, which is dimensionally more stable than the red oak commonly used. Here are some photos of one's that I've had, which includes a nice mahogany version.
Jack

ger01.jpgger06.jpgger01.jpgger02.jpg
 
I can't do anything with wood. It splits; metal doesn't.

When I was a kid and graduated from building with wood to metal/mechanical, I had no more interest in wood, I went 40 years - No Wood! - I don't know exactly how I fell off the wagon.
 








 
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