OT: Gold leafing on wood, how to?

5thwheel · Mar 19, 2009

I have a project of religious icons which I will need to gold leaf when done. Any one savvy at gold leafing furniture or small signs? The question is whether to use water based size or oil based. Also if red under coating is necessary? The icons will be carved of pear wood and the natural wood will be background and flesh of the icons. Some of the leafing will be lines as fine as pen-striping lines over natural wood.

lazarus · Mar 19, 2009

I saw a show years ago on TV about how they restore the gold leaf on the frames of masterpiece paintings. It's supposed to be an ongoing thing to keep them up as they get moved around for display. Maybe a museum curator or a web search of their process would help you.

Ben

5thwheel · Mar 19, 2009

lazarus said:
I saw a show years ago on TV about how they restore the gold leaf on the frames of masterpiece paintings. It's supposed to be an ongoing thing to keep them up as they get moved around for display. Maybe a museum curator or a web search of their process would help you.

Ben

Ben,

A web search did not bring up much helpful information on gold leaf techniques. Sadly many of the old artisans crafts are falling away.

L Vanice · Mar 19, 2009

I experimented with making illuminated manuscripts about 50 years ago. I did a bit of reading on the subject first. I recall egg white was one means of adhering the gold leaf. I guess that could be called water based and was certainly readily available many years ago. I think I bought a glass bottle of gold size to try. It was some sort of varnish.

A TV show on restoring furniture at Versailles Palace mentioned using rabbit skin glue as size, again water based.

Again about 50 years ago, I stenciled some Hitchcock type chairs using bronze powders and used ordinary varnish, it its tacky state, to adhere the powder. I got the method from reading books on the subject.

I think the red undercoat is used when it is expected that the gold will get some wear from handling or as a hedge against the craftsman leaving some gaps.

Larry

TToolm · Mar 19, 2009

Make sure the wood or surface is completely smooth, otherwise the imperfections with show through the gold leaf. I paint the area to be leafed with yellow oil based paint or gold color. Just in case you miss small spots you won't notice it as much. Try to get complete coverage the first time, makes a super job. There are 2 types of oil based size (fast and slow). Fast sets up within a couple hours depending on temp and humidity. I have always used slow size, it takes a good day or so to dry and gives you time to leaf, depending on how much you have to do. I never used water based size. Follow the directions on the can for mixing and set-up time. Also don't let the size puddle if you doing recessed lettering. Gold leafing doesn't go quickly. Surface prep is key to doing a good job, and take your time.

Tim

TToolm · Mar 19, 2009

Just to add, there is a book about gilding (goldleaf) called Gold Leaf Technigues 4 written by
Kent Smith which is excellent. Depending on what you gilding, you might need to put on a paint mask. The mask is cut out where you are gilding and the size is applied, almost like a stencil. If you get size on areas which you don't want to leaf, the gold will stick to it and you will have problems.

Tim

Just Bob Again · Mar 19, 2009

The red stuff is bole. A clay filler. Egg white with a little vinegar is glaire but not normally used on wood or glass. Needs heat to set it. Used on leather and paper. Oil size is what I've always used on wood. Longer working time. Imitation leaf is some brass-like metal, but cheap. Tarnishes and cracks easily. Genuine leaf lasts but probably $50 a square foot now. Sold in books of 4x4 sheets.

If you want gloss, you need the bole. 2 or 3 coats even on polished wood. And it has to be burnished down with an agate burnisher. Polished steel or carbide will work too. Without the bole you'll see grain. Apply the size and let it dry a while. Use a gilder's tip (very fine dry brush) to pick up the gold and lay it down. Brush the tip slightly on your hand or face to pick up enough oil to so it grabs the gold. Cut the gold on a leather pad, totally oil-free rough-side up, with a dull smooth knife. everything must be absolutely clean and dry and oil-free. The slightest breeze and it's all gone. No drafts. Burnish after it's down for a while. You can also get liquid leaf. Gold flakes in varnish. VERY expensive. You just paint it on. Plenty of data on the net. Just search on "gilding". I've been doing it for decades.

surplusjohn · Mar 19, 2009

one ref is Ralph Meyer's "Artist's Materials and Techniques" , it seems that there is quite a bit in there. I have never done it but have seen it done in museum restoration departments. Does Not look difficult

gwilson · Mar 19, 2009

I believe you need to paint the wood with gesso,a mixture of plaster of paris and hide glue.Sand the first coat smooth,and do it again until the wood is coated with a smooth gesso surface. Then,apply the red bole,which adds some richness under the gold. You can actually see through gold leaf when you hold up a sheet to the light. Rabbit skin glue is used to adhere the gold. I am a little rusty on this,but I believe you need to put on more than 1 coat to burnish it.

Call the bookbinder's shop in Colonial Williamsburg. 1-757-229-1000,ask for ext. 2521. Ask for Bruce,the master. Tell him George Wilson sent you. He can give the best advice,though he normally works on leather with his gold leafing.

These mica powders are awfully good,and come in several shades of gold color. I do not thing they ever tarnish. Try googling mica gold powder.

dsergison · Mar 19, 2009

i saw a "this old house" or simlar where they visited a sign shop. the sicn shop cnc engraved wood or foam. which they then painted. which they finally gold-leafed.

I think they spread rosin. then used a hair brush to pat the leaf down. it all flakes up but that's not important. it does not stay in a nice continuos foil sheet, it's very delicate. they just pat and brush gently a few times and it was beautifull.

kc5ezc · Mar 19, 2009

5th: I believe there is a simple paper on 'gold leafing' in the Dec2008-Jan 2009 issue of American Woodworker. Naturally that is the only magazine I can't find right now. When it comes around on top I will scan and email the article to you if you have not found it from other sources. Local library maybe?

Just Bob Again · Mar 19, 2009

http://www.gildedplanet.com/sitemap.asp

Everything you need. Tutorials, supplies, tools.

MEF · Mar 19, 2009

Water based size is best for glass windows.

Use oil base for wood, make sure its sanded smooth and painted as smooth as possible for hte best results.

Mark

5thwheel · Mar 20, 2009

Thanks all

Thanks to all for your help. You all gave me lots to think about.

Bill

DBurnette · Mar 20, 2009

Someone mentioned framers earlier in the post. In addition to the many resources already mentioned, you might want to talk to a high-end picture framer in Portland. I know there are a fair number on the east side of the river. Many are willing to give a demonstration, and share a little about techinque, boles, etc. I haven't done business with any though. A lot of letterpress printers also gild pages, though the technique is a little different.

In my neck of the woods (Virginia) , there is Buchanan & Kiguel. http://buchananandkiguel.com/

The have framed a few things for my in-laws, and their leafing work is something I would describe as old-world bespoke.

Framers seem to be one of the last sets of people maintianing the skillset.

Hdpg · Mar 20, 2009

I just read through these posts and found it very interesting. A couple of months ago I visited Quito, Ecuador and toured through a large cathedral that was being restored. there was a display explaining how they were refinishing the gold leaf...almost identical to the description given by Just Bob Again. I think it is incredible the range of experience and talent you find on this forum.

Gewehr 98 · Mar 20, 2009

There is an article on guilding wood in the current issue of Fine Woodworking magazine, available in many bookstores.

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OT: Gold leafing on wood, how to?

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