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Oak
- Thread starter Monday
- Start date
- Replies 10
- Views 2,318
Finegrain
Diamond
- Joined
- Sep 6, 2007
- Location
- Seattle, Washington
Wet oak will put a black stain on every steel and cast iron surface it touches. Also, oak shrinks a lot as it dries so what was correctly made when the wood was wet may not be correct once it dries.
About the only scenario I would consider for wet oak is if turning bowls. Wet oak turns about 100 times easier than dry oak.
Regards.
Mike
About the only scenario I would consider for wet oak is if turning bowls. Wet oak turns about 100 times easier than dry oak.
Regards.
Mike
medsar
Cast Iron
- Joined
- Jan 13, 2017
- Location
- Washington, USA
The answer: it depends.
It depends on what you are planning to do. As Finegrain mentioned, turning is a heck of lot easier when it's green, but it requires one to plan for shrinkage in the final product. If you are doing work with modern power tools and trying to glue the piece together, it's best to let it dry. If you are doing M&T joints with only hands tools...well, you'll get differing opinions but it's probably best to wait a year or two after felling the tree. If you are carving something, green is best. But I wouldn't recommend oak for a spoon though.
It depends on what you are planning to do. As Finegrain mentioned, turning is a heck of lot easier when it's green, but it requires one to plan for shrinkage in the final product. If you are doing work with modern power tools and trying to glue the piece together, it's best to let it dry. If you are doing M&T joints with only hands tools...well, you'll get differing opinions but it's probably best to wait a year or two after felling the tree. If you are carving something, green is best. But I wouldn't recommend oak for a spoon though.
I’m working with handtools. I will make a prototype out of wood, that will later be made in steel. I just want to check that all dimensions and mechanism works, and wood is much easier and cheaper to work with. The reason i choose oak is that it’s a hard wood, and it’s heavy to, even if that’s less important. I need to make small details in it.
I have fresh wood, straight from the tree. And it’s rainy outside, so the wood is wet. And i need this prototype done ASAP, so i wounder, should i just work with it as it is, wet, or should i put it in the sauna to dry?
I have fresh wood, straight from the tree. And it’s rainy outside, so the wood is wet. And i need this prototype done ASAP, so i wounder, should i just work with it as it is, wet, or should i put it in the sauna to dry?
sfriedberg
Diamond
- Joined
- Oct 14, 2010
- Location
- Oregon, USA
Monday, if you need something "immediately" you might as well work in Bondo or some other plastic resin material. Your wet oak will be unpleasant to your tools, and will start shrinking, checking and cracking as soon as you carve it up.
Please take 5 minutes and read an article or two about kiln drying. There's a lot more to it than stacking the wood in the sauna, and properly done requires at least a couple of seasons if you want a stable result.
Please take 5 minutes and read an article or two about kiln drying. There's a lot more to it than stacking the wood in the sauna, and properly done requires at least a couple of seasons if you want a stable result.
michiganbuck
Diamond
- Joined
- Jun 28, 2012
- Location
- Mt Clemens, Michigan 48035
Just about any wood mill even an Amish one know about wood drying and likely have some klin dried wood to sell.
Big chunk of wet wood may bend and curl a bit drying...
I once made a prototype of stacked and glued marine plywood.
Big chunk of wet wood may bend and curl a bit drying...
I once made a prototype of stacked and glued marine plywood.
That you need to make small details in the wood tells me that you should use a wood with finer grain. Can you find some maple?
And as everyone has posted, green wet wood is not the first choice for what you seem to be attempting.
thermite
Diamond
- Joined
- Sep 21, 2011
Your really should forget about use of that wood, for this purpose, then.
Almost anything from Big Box would be better. Wet, green Oak is not an option.
"Emergency" situation I might be tempted to laminate that "polywood" weather-resistant trim I have around already. PolyWood is reasonably stable. Doesn't really HAVE a "grain" to fight. Sawdust and PVC, IIRC.
Or steal the Wife's wooden or bamboo cutting boards? Cheap enough in Kitchenwares.
Several classical craftsmen who ken patterns are still here on PM.
Boxwood? Orange wood? MDF? Laminated plywood?
Above my current pay grade.
But for-damned-sure NOT green Oak!
jmhoying
Hot Rolled
- Joined
- Apr 3, 2013
- Location
- Western Ohio
Oak isn't a wood I would use for making a pattern, especially wet Oak. It will move and crack quickly once it's cut into smaller pieces. I'm not sure what size prototype you are making, but baltic birch plywood is a good choice. I once built a prototype transaxle for a new Crown lift truck that had to support the actual electric motor. They used it to check clearances for hoses, lines, etc.
Jack
Jack
rons
Diamond
- Joined
- Mar 5, 2009
- Location
- California, USA
You have not provided any dimensions for your prototype part.
There is no mention as to the species of your oak. White, Red, Live, etc...
You have not mentioned how you cut the wood. Is there sap wood or is it all heart wood?
The wood will change in dimension with drying. But it can change drastically depending on how you cut it in regards to the direction of the grain. Check out plain sawn, quarter sawn, rift sawn.
A general rule is a air dried piece that is stacked will dry 1" per year.
You might be able to rough something out and lay it on your sauna bench for X amount of hours. Then finish it to final dimension.
There is no mention as to the species of your oak. White, Red, Live, etc...
You have not mentioned how you cut the wood. Is there sap wood or is it all heart wood?
The wood will change in dimension with drying. But it can change drastically depending on how you cut it in regards to the direction of the grain. Check out plain sawn, quarter sawn, rift sawn.
A general rule is a air dried piece that is stacked will dry 1" per year.
You might be able to rough something out and lay it on your sauna bench for X amount of hours. Then finish it to final dimension.
