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Shopsmith rig

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Margie

Plastic
Joined
May 1, 2013
Location
Georgia, USA
First off, if this is the wrong place for this, let me know.
There is a tool I want to use with my Shopsmith. It's called "The Grabber".

https://www.pennstateind.com/store/PKMBL72.html

The problem is it was a Morris tapper and the company that sales it does not have an adapter so it can fit a Shopsmith.
Does anyone know where I can get an adapter to make my Shopsmith hold a Morris tapper?

Thanks,
Margie
 
Just to mention the word "Shopsmith" makes this the wrong place....in the topic title no less....for shame..
 
Post it on one of the sites that cater to hobby users: The Hobby-Machinist or MetalworkingFun Forum

You will find many professional and hobby users there, glad to try to help you. But before you post, find out what you need to fit in the shopsmith: arbor size and taper, thread size, etc. That would be the first question asked.
 
I would recommend that you post this on a woodworking forum. Woodnet and Sawmill Creek both have woodturning sections, with knowledgeable people who should be able to answer your question.
Shopsmith machines have a 5/8" diameter spindle with a flat. Accessories have a 5/8" hole with a setscrew for mounting to the spindle.I don't think there is any way to accurately mount a Morse taper socket on a Shopsmith spindle.
Rick W
 
And if the Grabber is not available for your target machine, a competent machine shop can probably modify it to fit. You'll need the Grabber, and a tool that fits your machine for reference. It won't be free, but it'll probably be cheaper than starting from scratch.

Chip
 
And if the Grabber is not available for your target machine, a competent machine shop can probably modify it to fit. You'll need the Grabber, and a tool that fits your machine for reference. It won't be free, but it'll probably be cheaper than starting from scratch.

Chip

Thanks. That's a good idea.
 
I'm not sure you can make it work. It appears that the Shopsmith has a solid spindle, and the Grabber actually extends through the Morse taper shank. If you're turning a lot of pencils and pens, and you really want that accessory, you might have to consider another mini-lathe.
 
It's not a Morris tapper, it's called a Morse Taper.

That thing is just another gadget that takes the place of a wood dowel and some masking tape.
 
..for shame..
Really? Someone asks a question and all you can do is criticize? I have made a baroque lute, citterns, orpharion, hautboy and now a 36 string harp using a Shopsmith. It is a machine and they are doing woodworking.
What you need is an inverse of the Grabber. That appears to pull the tip rod toward the shank with the nut, expanding the silicone tube. Make it the other way around with the inner shank connected to the base with the rear tube pushed toward the tip by the nut to expand the silicone. It will need an accurate bore for the Shopsmith spindle and the shank should be a close fit to the blank bore.
If you want to make it more universal, a base piece with and reamed through bore for the spindle and inner arbor with nose thread for the nut. An extended nut that projects past the work end of the base. A disc with an arbor size hole and O.D. large enough for the nut to push against. A tube that slip fits over the arbor and the silicone or rubber sleeve. The arbor will need a steel sleeve in the base for the difference between the spindle bore and arbor diameters. This way you can change arbor diameter and length to suit. Another short tube screwed onto the end of the arbor is the stop for the silicone tube.
Long pieces will need an inverse cone live centre to hold the part end so the arbor does not bend whilst roughing.
 
Thanks

Really? Someone asks a question and all you can do is criticize? I have made a baroque lute, citterns, orpharion, hautboy and now a 36 string harp using a Shopsmith. It is a machine and they are doing woodworking.
What you need is an inverse of the Grabber. That appears to pull the tip rod toward the shank with the nut, expanding the silicone tube. Make it the other way around with the inner shank connected to the base with the rear tube pushed toward the tip by the nut to expand the silicone. It will need an accurate bore for the Shopsmith spindle and the shank should be a close fit to the blank bore.
If you want to make it more universal, a base piece with and reamed through bore for the spindle and inner arbor with nose thread for the nut. An extended nut that projects past the work end of the base. A disc with an arbor size hole and O.D. large enough for the nut to push against. A tube that slip fits over the arbor and the silicone or rubber sleeve. The arbor will need a steel sleeve in the base for the difference between the spindle bore and arbor diameters. This way you can change arbor diameter and length to suit. Another short tube screwed onto the end of the arbor is the stop for the silicone tube.
Long pieces will need an inverse cone live centre to hold the part end so the arbor does not bend whilst roughing.

Thanks for taking up for me and the idea. To bad that is way outside of my skill set.
As for the Morris /morse thing, it was autocorrect.
 
mango_grail wrote: "Quote Originally Posted by Milacron ..for shame.."
"Really? Someone asks a question and all you can do is criticize?"

Actually, all he can do is create and own the platform on which you, I, and the OP are posting for free. And the OP received some decent guidance, including yours, even though the thread really didn't follow the guidelines put forth by the owner.

So, 150 posts in, allow me introduce you to Milicron, your benevolent overlord. His sandbox, his rules. In fact, if you ran the stats, the number of times he comments about thread titles and machine-type content not following guidelines without subsequently closing the thread is vanishingly small.

That said, thread's still open, nobody is lying on the floor bleeding from the banhammer, the sun still rises and sets, and all is still alt.right* with the world. So for the most part, life goes on...

*Relax all, it's a joke, not the opening salvo of a political flamewar.

Chip
 
Let's all relax, this is the notoriously tolerant woodworking forum, moderated by the sweet-natured Stephen Thomas.

Milacron is of course correct, and I wish we did get more professional/industrial posts, but....
 
Let's all relax, this is the notoriously tolerant woodworking forum, moderated by the sweet-natured Stephen Thomas.

Milacron is of course correct, and I wish we did get more professional/industrial posts, but....

but.. if users had names like Margie or Julie then their threads don't get closed!
 
Well, mostly I have not been paying attention. We went off to see PM'r Hanermo at the beginning of March, got back to a couple business trips, and just realized I did not miss posting so very much. :)

But responsibility is responsibility, after all.

....I have made a baroque lute, citterns, orpharion, hautboy and now a 36 string harp using a Shopsmith. It is a machine and they are doing woodworking.

This^^^

I try to consider that exceptional, even professional, woodworking gets done on often strange and unexpected equipment. Even stuff like import chopsaws, cheap/import TS's and RAS's, W & H moulders, the occasional Belsaw, and maybe rarely a Shopsmith can be found in plants or studio shops where the bulk of the machinery is industrial. What I would prefer to see is the work.

The alternate viewpoint is that Practical Machinist is intentionally an industrial site. So to talk about the machines alone, preference is to avoid the hobby machines (which are outright prohibited on the metal parts of PM). I'll consider them when the question is straight forward parts and modifications. Such as the OP's. I tend to let them ride since they usually peter out in 5 or so posts.

We are machinists. The answer for most of us is source it if it is a commodity, otherwise we do the cost-benenfit analysis and if we can spend a mere few $$hundred$$ in time and materials to make a $10 part, we're like moths to the flame. Sadly.

If you are not in this demographic, this site probably won't serve you well. But we'll give the benefit of the doubt for a few posts.

but.. if users had names like Margie or Julie then their threads don't get closed

It would not have been conscious on my part to be more tolerant of women because it betrays an insidious bias that they may be more in need of help. Providence forbid. I know I have been tolerant of people who present as or plausibly claim to be youngsters because we all have to start somewhere and that age usually has minimal options where cost is a factor.

All the above said, I'm closing this now since it has devolved into chit-chat.

Margie - I believe there is probably a Shopsmith group or 2. They would be your best resource.

smt
 
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