I go back and forth between epoxy and Titebond Extend for bent laminations.
A lot of what I have bent has exterior exposure, so WEST is it.
For interior items Titebond works well. I initially started to use it on the theory that it would be faster to de-clamp. I'm not so sure it is, maybe 1/2 the time in clamps? Because if the bend is tight, titebond will creep if it is unclamped too soon. And one is never quite sure if that is 3 hours or 8 hours.... Bending ply is very low stress, though.
Besides the often useful extended working time, Extend is stronger (per Tightbond's own data sheets) and I believe harder (more creep resistant) than original titebond.
WEST with fast hardener takes about 8 hrs at 70°F.
I have a bar stool in the office made from shop sawn 1/8" W.oak veneer about 35 years old that I glued up with Titebond. I think Extend had just come out and that I used that, but not positive. The stool is fine and nothing has delaminated or moved much. The blank did move over a couple weeks as it dried out. Basically, I glued up a 6" wide blank, and sawed it into 4 equal sort of S-curve legs, re-assembled with a center post.
With epoxy, if you establish the necessary over-bend for a given curve and laminae family (thickness, species, number of plies) It is pretty darn consistent as far as springback. With a "large number" of plies, there is very little springback even with fairly extreme curves.
When I started experimenting with Titebond Extend, I did seem to notice that the curve varied after being unclamped, and sometimes over several weeks or so, it actually got tighter as the moisture was fully off-gassed.
I think you are going to have trouble with only 3 plies (2 glue joints only 1/4" apart) in maintaining the curve with bending ply. But I don't think I have ever used it.
What I tend to do when making plywood bent parts, is laminate 1/8" baltic birch. Or sometimes one layer of 1/4 in the middle, and 2 layers on each side. (4 glue joints)
I am obsessive, but have also found that for me, I will not laminate parallel grain plywood. I always (OK, almost always) cross the grain at each glue joint.
I have often mentioned using urea resin when I started because it was one of the few "high end" glues on the market. It never worked well for me, and not long after starting I read several articles that indicated that urea glues essentially self-degrade over time, except in near perfect conditions. That played to my developing prejudice
& I have not used it since.
smt