Paul Cataldo
Stainless
- Joined
- Dec 9, 2004
- Location
- Atlanta, GA
I plan on using the instructions here, which user mfisher posted in the vise squad pic thread some time back. Here's the instructions mfisher posted:
"There are lots of complete sites covering the electrolysis, but the basics are:
Non-conductive container - 5 gal bucket, plastic storage bin, etc.
Fill with clean water - doesn't need to be distilled, DI or RO, just plain tap water
Add about 1/2 cup of washing soda (I use Arm and Hammer, located in the clothing detergent section of most any larger grocery store) (baking soda will work, but not as well, and will only work on rust, not paint or grease) per 5 gallons
Hang the part (or block it up) to be cleaned in the solution, don't let it touch bottom since a layer of sediment/slime will gather on the bottom that can short out the system (sort of, if you are using clean solution this shouldn't be an issue, but after a while it will be).
Add a sacrificial piece or several around the containers sides, this is the other conductor. This needs to be steel/iron, and will get eaten away. Rebar or scrap steel, whatever.
There needs to be line-of-sight between each spot on the part to be cleaned and scrap steel pieces. This isn't exactly true, but it sure helps a lot. You can also move the scrap steel from place to place, and rotate the part being cleaned.
Connect the part to be cleaned to the negative of the battery charger. Connect the scrap steel to the postive, cable between pieces if you are using several.
DO NOT USE ANY STAINLESS STEEL. The chromium will be liberated,d you get a hazardous waste. Do not use copper or galvanized, it will be eaten away.
You do not need a lot of current (alledgedly, I haven't done the tests myself), 2A works just as fast as 20A.
Turn on the power and be patient. I think I had the vise body in for about 12 hours. Leaving it in longer shouldn't hurt anything. It doesn't effect clean steel/iron.
The bubbles forming will be hydrogen and oxygen. This, when concentrated, can explode. Use adequate ventillation to prevent explosive gas buildup."
-and here are my questions:
1. What exactly is this "washing soda"? Perhaps I'm just too young to know, but can regular old Tide or Gain brand clothing detergent be used, or what?? If not, could someone please explain in detail what must be used???
2. Can you be shocked/electrocuted in any way, during the process? I mean, can you stick your hand into the electrolysis bath while the process is occurring??? I've never seen this mentioned, and would like to know.
3. My charger has the option to switch to either 6v or 12v . Which setting should be used?
4. The instructions say not to use any galvanized for the scrap steel conductors. Would it also be a mistake to use galvanized bailing wire to suspend the object to be cleaned, down into the solution?
Thanks for the help guys. Really appreciate it.
"There are lots of complete sites covering the electrolysis, but the basics are:
Non-conductive container - 5 gal bucket, plastic storage bin, etc.
Fill with clean water - doesn't need to be distilled, DI or RO, just plain tap water
Add about 1/2 cup of washing soda (I use Arm and Hammer, located in the clothing detergent section of most any larger grocery store) (baking soda will work, but not as well, and will only work on rust, not paint or grease) per 5 gallons
Hang the part (or block it up) to be cleaned in the solution, don't let it touch bottom since a layer of sediment/slime will gather on the bottom that can short out the system (sort of, if you are using clean solution this shouldn't be an issue, but after a while it will be).
Add a sacrificial piece or several around the containers sides, this is the other conductor. This needs to be steel/iron, and will get eaten away. Rebar or scrap steel, whatever.
There needs to be line-of-sight between each spot on the part to be cleaned and scrap steel pieces. This isn't exactly true, but it sure helps a lot. You can also move the scrap steel from place to place, and rotate the part being cleaned.
Connect the part to be cleaned to the negative of the battery charger. Connect the scrap steel to the postive, cable between pieces if you are using several.
DO NOT USE ANY STAINLESS STEEL. The chromium will be liberated,d you get a hazardous waste. Do not use copper or galvanized, it will be eaten away.
You do not need a lot of current (alledgedly, I haven't done the tests myself), 2A works just as fast as 20A.
Turn on the power and be patient. I think I had the vise body in for about 12 hours. Leaving it in longer shouldn't hurt anything. It doesn't effect clean steel/iron.
The bubbles forming will be hydrogen and oxygen. This, when concentrated, can explode. Use adequate ventillation to prevent explosive gas buildup."
-and here are my questions:
1. What exactly is this "washing soda"? Perhaps I'm just too young to know, but can regular old Tide or Gain brand clothing detergent be used, or what?? If not, could someone please explain in detail what must be used???
2. Can you be shocked/electrocuted in any way, during the process? I mean, can you stick your hand into the electrolysis bath while the process is occurring??? I've never seen this mentioned, and would like to know.
3. My charger has the option to switch to either 6v or 12v . Which setting should be used?
4. The instructions say not to use any galvanized for the scrap steel conductors. Would it also be a mistake to use galvanized bailing wire to suspend the object to be cleaned, down into the solution?
Thanks for the help guys. Really appreciate it.