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Rivett 1030F Project and Docs

Jphilby429

Plastic
Joined
Jun 29, 2022
Hi All, long time lurker here. I really appreciate the wealth of knowledge on PM.

I just picked up a Rivett 1030F for my home shop. I was able to do a 10min test before decommissioning it to verify that it works and the high low buttons work etc. I’ve got it placed. Next I have to level it and secure a step up transformer.

I got the lathe from the original purchaser, and it came with the full manual, schematics, brochures and original purchase receipt. It was free, I suspect that is because it’s not the same hyper precise instrument it use to be. But hopefully it will serve my needs.

I’m hoping to put it into service soon for a few projects I have coming up, and to slowly make it shine again.

I did notice some significant wear on the angle section of the bed ways that the carriage rides on. I suppose that is what it is. I’m planning to do a few test cuts as soon as my transformer arrives.

I thought since I have such contiguous documentation, it might be helpful to share here. Especially since the lathe is still very in tact with very little done/missing.
 

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The bed ways are tool steel inserts. Not flame hardened.
Oh cool, good to know. That means theoretically, I can replace them? I seriously know very little about it at this point.

I just wrapped up the first leveling, I’ll check out how the inserts work.
 
You seriously suck!

Lucky guy…

Depending on depth of flame hardening of bed, it may be a good candidate for a re grind.
Haha thanks! Going to look into these inserts. That might be awesome if I can pull the inserts and have them reground or design new ones.
 
The bed ways are tool steel inserts. Not flame hardened.
Didn’t know that, thanks!

I haven’t done it, but know a guy who rebuilt a different type of lathe with way inserts. He made new ones thicker to compensate for wear and rescraping he did of saddle. Avoided turcite and it’s problems that way. I’d guess he did final grinding with the inserts bolted to bed as others have suggested.

Would be interested to see the OP’s progress with this lathe. One of only a few I‘ve lusted after… Would suggest a clean/redo of saddle lube system- probably is gummed up and not lubing ways etc.
 
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Learning so much already! Well, a full restoration isn’t in my future haha. fingers crossed it will suit my needs with a little spit shine, some gib adjusting, and new lube. It’s mainly for odd jobs that don’t require much precision as far a tool room lathes go.

I was just reading in the manual about the oil pump. That would explain why the carriage is the only thing a little low on oil.

Fun story, I did my first summer engineering internship at Gits mfg in Creston IA. Fun to see these little oil caps on machines when they were still made here in the USA.2A411D02-B8DA-4E11-9790-A22EA13BD039.jpeg
 
Thermite, I didn’t say work was avoided, just don’t care for turcite that runs on exposed bed ways getting crap embedded into it. Having scraped saddles myself I would measure amount that needs to be removed before assuming milling is needed. Esp if a guy can ‘raise’ the bed height by installing thicker steel inserts.

That’s cool about the Gits connection! Current rescraping/rebuilding a small horizonal mill and will use some of their products to improve its lube system. Are you still in Iowa?
 
...

I just picked up a Rivett 1030F for my home shop. I was able to do a 10min test before decommissioning it to verify that it works and the high low buttons work etc. I’ve got it placed. Next I have to level it and secure a step up transformer.

...
You don't need a step-up transformer. Unless it's a real odd-ball, it can be rewired to run from 240. I know of one machine locally where that was done.

Cal
 
Thermite, I didn’t say work was avoided, just don’t care for turcite that runs on exposed bed ways getting crap embedded into it. Having scraped saddles myself I would measure amount that needs to be removed before assuming milling is needed. Esp if a guy can ‘raise’ the bed height by installing thicker steel inserts.

That’s cool about the Gits connection! Current rescraping/rebuilding a small horizonal mill and will use some of their products to improve its lube system. Are you still in Iowa?
I’m in Broomfield CO now, I’ve been out here for about 13yrs.
 
You don't need a step-up transformer. Unless it's a real odd-ball, it can be rewired to run from 240. I know of one machine locally where that was done.

Cal
I’m sure it can be, I’ve poured over the schematic. It’s kind of weird how it generates the voltage for the speed control motor using the big motor as a transformer. The wires coming out of the control transformer are brittle as hell and I’d need to figure out different heaters. Looks straight forward on paper if you assume that rewiring the motor gets you the proper voltage to the control motor. But I think I’ve got a 7.5KVA transformer that will get me close enough. Not much loss in those things. I’d really kick myself if I botched something and fried some unobtainum part.
 
Do you have 3-phase power? If not, what do you plan to use? The guy that had the 1030F here tried going the step-up transformer route and the current inrush to the transformer, powered via a 7.5 HP rotary phase converter, tripped the breaker every time.

Cal
 
Do you have 3-phase power? If not, what do you plan to use? The guy that had the 1030F here tried going the step-up transformer route and the current inrush to the transformer, powered via a 7.5 HP rotary phase converter, tripped the breaker every time.

Cal
I have a 10hp phase perfect for my garage equipment. The 7.5kva transformer is right on the cusp of acceptable, but I think it will get me up and running. It’s free, so I figured I’d give it a try before getting a bigger one. 7.5hp rotary is probably a bit on the small side, so I could see that happening. Unfortunately, I probably won’t be able to run my Fadal and this lathe at the same time.... booo hiss.
 
Hi All, long time lurker here. I really appreciate the wealth of knowledge on PM.

I just picked up a Rivett 1030F for my home shop. I was able to do a 10min test before decommissioning it to verify that it works and the high low buttons work etc. I’ve got it placed. Next I have to level it and secure a step up transformer.

I got the lathe from the original purchaser, and it came with the full manual, schematics, brochures and original purchase receipt. It was free, I suspect that is because it’s not the same hyper precise instrument it use to be. But hopefully it will serve my needs.

I’m hoping to put it into service soon for a few projects I have coming up, and to slowly make it shine again.

I did notice some significant wear on the angle section of the bed ways that the carriage rides on. I suppose that is what it is. I’m planning to do a few test cuts as soon as my transformer arrives.

I thought since I have such contiguous documentation, it might be helpful to share here. Especially since the lathe is still very in tact with very little done/missing.
I'm in the middle of a Rivett restoration as well. If you're digging deep I'd love to see some pictures of some of your assemblies for reference. I'll be watching this thread closely.

-jon
 
QT Luckey: (Depending on the depth of flame hardening of the bed, it may be a good candidate for a re-grind.

Agree it is well worth a regrind, but you may find that its accuracy still fits your needs

Very nice lathe.
Buck.
 
Hi All, I’m overdue for an update. I’ve got it up and running. I ended up using a backfed 6kva transformer. So far it’s working great. When I’m running the lathe at full speed (not cutting) the transformer and lathe together are drawing about 9.8A at 239V.
 

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I scanned the entire manual to upload, but it’s like 50 MB. I doubt the forum will let me upload. There are a bunch of option and price docs and brochures. I’d love to upload them, but for now PM if you’d like a copy as they are too big to attach.
 

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I was playing around with all of the back gears, threading etc after an oil change. I thought I did something bad because Forward “quit” working.

After about an hour of trouble shooting in the electrical cab, and cleaning all of the electrical contacts on the contactors, it lead me back up to the main switch panel.

This is where I found out that if you have the thread selection set to left hand, it won’t let the Lathe run in forward hahaha.
 

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