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Barber Colman Gear hobbing

RkRider

Plastic
Joined
Jul 13, 2022
Having an issue cutting a Spur Gear. The index gears seem to be good. As I am cutting the right number of teeth. But the feed seems to be off as it is cutting a slight helical. Is there a calculation needed for the feed gears when trying to cut a spur, like there is for a helical?
 
If you are cutting a helix, that tells me your index ratio is not exact. The Index ratio must be exact and equal to the machine index constant divided by the # of teeth. the Feed gear ratio will never have an effect on the resulting gear teeth if the index ratio is correct. Perhaps recheck your tooth count on the change gears.
 
I will take a look tomorrow. I am using the index gears from the table on the cover. But I will double check the numbers. The helix that is being produced is extremely small. Could there be something I am missing or a problem with the machine other than the index gears. Could I be setting the hob at the wrong angle?
 
I may be using the wrong terms.
We are presently using a 36 tooth DRIVER with an idler and a 48 tooth driven in the index gearbox
We have tried a multiple combinations in the differential gearbox.

The machine we have is a Barber Colman 6-10 with triple thread worm

Machine index constant is 12

Feed constant is .075

Diff. constant is 10/L

We are looking to produce a 16 tooth spur gear.
we have come close but always have a slight helix .
I haven't run one of these in over 30 years and can't remember how the differential gear box is setup for spur gears.
 
Notice the red lever:
172764245.png
 
I don't think anyone would cut a 16-tooth spur using the differential, but if they did, the math would look something like the below.

I chose a diametral pitch of 16 (the following won't work for other diametral pitches) and 30 thousandths for the feed rate.

172764428.png

The above would need testing using a light skim cut (It may have an idler count issue that doubles the helix angle instead of canceling it).

:eek: I think this is a convincing argument to do it the simple way by locking out the differential.
 
Last edited:
Ah! you never mentioned the machine had a differential. Details. Diffs on a 6-10 are not that common and are a nice feature.
That red "lever" in the above picture is not really a lever but simply a link that slips over the differential change gear input shaft to prevent the shaft from turning. If you don't have it available, make up a plate that slips over both shafts and put a set screw into the side of the input shaft to lock it. Ideally, the link would have an internal spline that mated to the input shaft splines.
 
I think we have the root of the problem but if you still get a slight helix it is time to check simple things, a slightly loose blank on the mandrel or a loose mandrel in the machine itself has given me this result.
 








 
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