bob
Titanium
- Joined
- Aug 12, 2002
- Location
- Regina, Canada
Yeah now you can spend a week getting the sand off and out
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Rather that, then deal with that original paint anymore..... I hadn't even touch the inside of the base yetYeah now you can spend a week getting the sand off and out
Thanks for the info. I did in deed cover the ways in duct tape before sending off.You may want to pressure wash after you get it back then dry the best you can by hand and let it bake in the sun all day. Check every nook and cranny. I understand your reasoning, but Bob has a good point.
I used to sand blast everything but machine tools, not
It is the casing.
On machined surfaces silica imbeds into the surface. If they haven't blasted it yet I would cover the ways with rubber. A couple layers of good electrical tape works as long as the guy blasting doesn't hit the tape hard.
One of the things about sand blasting is that it removes paint and filler really well but still manages to leave dirt and oil. I prefer pressure washing as this will get rid of everything that needs to be removed and with a little degreaser will remove the oil.Hey guys, just got back in town and found these spots on the lathe. I assume it’s oil seeping through the casting? Thoughts on what it is, and how to address before I prime?
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Thanks a ton man!Your in luck. I just rebuilt the headstock on of the my 1942 10EE this spring so it's still fairly fresh in my memory.
From your first photo I see the set screws on the top of the forward and reverse threading gears have been removed as well as the spindle.
First remove the shift fork located between the threading gears by taking out the two cap head screws. To remove the threading gear closest to the spindle nose, find or make an object who's diameter is slightly smaller than the OD of the gear sleeve. By gentle tapping the gear sleeve OD from the spindle side it will push out into the center of headstock.
The rear threading gear and sleeve is easiest to remove after removing the rear spindle bearing. I removed the rear bearing by first taking out the sleeve in the threading gear and tapping out the rear bearing from the spindle side. This also needs an appropriately sized object to mate the rear bearing outer race. Do not tap on the bearing inner race.
Once the rear bearing is out you remove the rear facing gear and sleeve just like the front bearing and sleeve but by tapping from the rear of the spindle housing.
I did not remove the spindle bearing from my spindle shaft so I can't help much with that one. There are many threads about doing that though,
We are in deed Grant. Thanks bud.I just pulled the clutch gears out of mine today. Seems like we are in a similar spot in the process. You can start HERE in my thread for the step by step.
Did you replace the rear bearing? If so, could you link the one you purchased?Your in luck. I just rebuilt the headstock on of the my 1942 10EE this spring so it's still fairly fresh in my memory.
From your first photo I see the set screws on the top of the forward and reverse threading gears have been removed as well as the spindle.
First remove the shift fork located between the threading gears by taking out the two cap head screws. To remove the threading gear closest to the spindle nose, find or make an object who's diameter is slightly smaller than the OD of the gear sleeve. By gentle tapping the gear sleeve OD from the spindle side it will push out into the center of headstock.
The rear threading gear and sleeve is easiest to remove after removing the rear spindle bearing. I removed the rear bearing by first taking out the sleeve in the threading gear and tapping out the rear bearing from the spindle side. This also needs an appropriately sized object to mate the rear bearing outer race. Do not tap on the bearing inner race.
Once the rear bearing is out you remove the rear facing gear and sleeve just like the front bearing and sleeve but by tapping from the rear of the spindle housing.
I did not remove the spindle bearing from my spindle shaft so I can't help much with that one. There are many threads about doing that though,
I did not replace the front or rear spindle bearings. Luckily mine were ok. I did replace every other bearing in the headstock though.Did you replace the rear bearing? If so, could you link the one you purchased?
I think you are on the right track. Blocked drain back passages will cause leaking. You definitely need a gasket on both the front and rear bearing covers. I'll double check mine today but I think the sling ring on the rear is held in place by the spindle lock. If that's not located correctly, oil will not be guided back to the oil return passage and leak out.Guys, I'm doing all of this, because of a leak in the front and rear of the headstock.
FRONT HEADSTOCK LEAK
I found that the drain hole at the front of the headstock was clogged and the gasket was missing, so I'm hoping that clearing the clog and installing a gasket, will fix the front leak issue.
BACK HEADSTOCK LEAK
I believe the leak is around the spindle in the rear. My machine is missing the spindle lock. I believe this pushes up against EE-1116 to create the seal. It to is missing the gasket at EE-1031 (I think thats the number..... drawing I have is a little blurry). You think those 2 might be the culprit of the rear headstock leak?
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