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Re-machine surface on a 5 feet square Acorn welding table, Greenville, SC.

Overland

Stainless
Joined
Nov 19, 2017
Location
Greenville, SC
I just got this at an auction, but the surface has been modified, by machining about 1/4" off the center part of the table, but left a strip on 2 of the edges about 3" wide, original height.
So the whole surface needs machining, remove the "edge steps", and then skim the main part of the surface.
It weighs about 2,000 lbs, and 5 feet square; currently on my trailer.
Need someone relatively close the Greenville SC, with a planer, big mill, maybe a Blanchard grinder that is willing to help, and save this table.
Thanks
Bob.
 
I just got this at an auction, but the surface has been modified, by machining about 1/4" off the center part of the table, but left a strip on 2 of the edges about 3" wide, original height.
So the whole surface needs machining, remove the "edge steps", and then skim the main part of the surface.
It weighs about 2,000 lbs, and 5 feet square; currently on my trailer.
Need someone relatively close the Greenville SC, with a planer, big mill, maybe a Blanchard grinder that is willing to help, and save this table.
Thanks
Bob.
If the two edges that have been left are at 90 degrees to each other they will have been left like that to facilitate setting up components at right angles prior to welding. We used to fastened strips of bright bar down two adjoining sides on our welding tables for the same purpose.

Regards Tyrone
 
If the two edges that have been left are at 90 degrees to each other they will have been left like that to facilitate setting up components at right angles prior to welding. We used to fastened strips of bright bar down two adjoining sides on our welding tables for the same purpose.

Regards Tyrone
Thanks Tyrone, but these are parallel edges.
I'll post a photo tomorrow.
Bob
 
Five feet square: that's 5 feet by 5 feet or 25 square feet and it weighs a ton. The crystal ball shows $$$$$$$$$$.

I can't offer any help other than to suggest perhaps a facility at a port city. Ships often need large parts.

But I want to, would really love to see some photos of that job in progress.
 
Five feet square: that's 5 feet by 5 feet or 25 square feet and it weighs a ton. The crystal ball shows $$$$$$$$$$.
😭🤣🤣

I was helping a shop in a similar situation. Bought it at auction, needed it for welding and needed resurfacing. After the quotes they got, it was cheaper to buy a new fixture table. Hopefully its cheaper by you down there, then up here.
 
Its a welding table. If the rails were bothering me I'd knock them down with a angle grinder. Or you could buy a portable milling machine like a Versa-Mil. And I think the weight is closer to 2800#. If there are arc marks they will make a planer iffy due to the hard spots.
 
One of the people that makes custom machine bases can probably help you out. I've had an 8' x 8' table fabricated then ground flat, and that weighed about 6k pounds. Is it worth doing? No idea.

If you're looking for cheaper and dirtier, I can envision some router sled type contraption with an angle grinder attached and a few spare hours could get the job done to within couple or ten thousandths.
 
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Instead of putting the plate on a machine, it maybe worth considering putting a machine on the plate. Gantry from a CNC router...

LMD5000-GANTRY-MILLing.jpg
 
I tried Sullivan.
Nice friendly and very helpful, but as Limy said "big machine, big money".
$400 per hour and certainly a lot more than 1 hour. Not really economic.
So I'm thinking how good does this need to be.
I could probably get it good enough with an angle grinder and a straight edge, but I've never had good success grinding cast iron; maybe I need a particular type of wheel.
I can't really imagine a sled system heavy and stable enough to take these edges down.
I'll post pics later. Open to ideas please.
Bob
Maybe a mag drill with some sort of flat bottom cutter to remove the bulk of the material, then finish (hand) grind........
 
I’m wondering if you could build a router sled and take very light passes with a 1/2” end mill in the router?

Instead of using wood for the rails you could use aluminum extrusions for greater precision. Should be faster and much more accurate than doing it by hand or using a mag drill.
 
Use a 9" grinder and a larger cup wheel, 6" dia or so, hold it flat to the surface and have at it. The cast iron will grind easily so make sure to get a good feel for before you get down to the good surface level. In other words grind in passes over the entire high area a little at a time with each pass, DO NOT start at one end and grind down to full depth and then go along the length at that depth.
 
One wonders why you bought it like that if you don't know how to fix it.

You could do some preheating and try to build the low areas back up.

But my vote is to cut a piece that pretty much fills the void. Then use it with or without your filler piece. I'm guessing you'll either learn to live with it or you'll get sick of it and find another fool.
 
Okay, another idea... mount a Bridgeport (or similar) head to the table of the mill on an arm/extension so that it can reach the plate's surface, and fly cut it say 1/4 at a time (as in reach, still need multiple passes to cover the area). Will need to shift and/or rotate the plate to get to all areas, and will need to ensure parallelism between the plate and machine's table (as a reference).
 

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