Source for MK8 M7 nozzles (for Qidi X-Plus II)?

[DubbleTrubble]

I just recently picked up a Qidi X-plus II in order to print with Nylon and Polycarbonate. For those familiar with Qidi, it is the successor of the original Qidi X-Plus. It's my second 3D printer.

One of the two included extruders (for low-temp prints) uses an MK8 m7 nozzle. and this is not a common nozzle size as far as I can tell. I intended to print with a 0.6 nozzle, but I'm having a heck of a time finding replacement nozzles other than from Qidi.

Does anyone have a source for MK8 M7 nozzles? Thanks

 

[DubbleTrubble]

To add a little more color, most of the MK8 nozzles have an M6 threaded stem. The MK8 M7 has an M7 threaded stem. The MK10 has an M7 stem, but the ID is larger to allow clearance for an internal PTFE tube

 

[DubbleTrubble]

I ordered nozzles from Qidi via AliExpress for both low- and high-temp extruders. I was told that the low-temp extruder took MK8 M7 nozzles and the high-temp took MK10 M7 nozzles. In both cases, the ID on the incoming side is small and doesn't allow for insertion of a PTFE tube. I

was surprised when my order showed up and I was delivered MK10 M7 nozzles for the low-temp and MK8 M7 for the high-temp. The exact opposite. And, the MK10 M7 nozzles also had a PTFE tube installed into the end. WTF.

I contacted Qidi and they told me they had made a mistake. Both extruders should use MK10 M7 nozzles with a small opening (no PTFE tube). They're sending me new nozzles. At least they are trying to be helpful and always respond quickly.

 

[GiroDyno]

I had been meaning to get some .6mm nozzles for my i-Fast and saw this thread and got worried I was going to need to get something unusual but they appear to be regular old MK8 m6x1s.
So the nozzle originally shipped with the printer were incorrect? Wonder if you got a hybrid "Qidi X-plus I"

 

[DubbleTrubble]

So the nozzle originally shipped with the printer were incorrect? Wonder if you got a hybrid "Qidi X-plus I"

Yeah, they told me the original nozzles were incorrect, however I don't yet trust that they know what's going on and so I still don't believe I know what's correct. Currently they're saying MK10 M7 for both extruders. Before they said MK8 M7 for low temp and MK10 M7 for high temp, which is how it arrived. What I do know is both extruders have M7 threads. The MK8 and MK10 nozzles have slightly different shapes where it threads into the hot-end. They're sending me another package of nozzles that should arrive on Wednesday, so it will be interesting to see what shows up this time.

 

[burdickjp]

The best hot end and nozzle parts are made by Micro-Swiss. I believe they have what you're looking for: https://store.micro-swiss.com/

 

[DubbleTrubble]

The best hot end and nozzle parts are made by Micro-Swiss. I believe they have what you're looking for: https://store.micro-swiss.com/

Thank you! I'm familiar with that company and see that they might have a solution. I find it totally bizarre that these nozzles are more available. I thought nozzles were a commodity item.

 

[GiroDyno]

What replacement nozzles did they end up sending you?
AFAIK my i-Fast has M6x1 MK8 nozzles all around.

 

[DubbleTrubble]

What replacement nozzles did they end up sending you?
AFAIK my i-Fast has M6x1 MK8 nozzles all around.

MK10 M7 is what they sent me. I just looked on Amazon and there are cheap ones for sale, so I guess they are the commodity variety. I also see the Micro Swiss nozzles on MatterHackers.

 

[sinned]

The best hot end and nozzle parts are made by Micro-Swiss. I believe they have what you're looking for: https://store.micro-swiss.com/

Their nozzles are the best. USA made and their coatings really do work.

 

[DubbleTrubble]

How do the Micro-Swill nozzles improve performance?

 

[sinned]

By performance do you mean how do the original prodcuts work compared to the Chinese knock offs?

Micro-swiss developed the first Mk10 all metal nozzle and heatbreak. Runice has not been able to match it.

You will want to upgrade the rest of the Mk10 extruder parts to their all metal ones. The plastic lever and extruder plate will creep over time.

With the Qidi, you may find heat creep issued between extruders. Depending on your slicer, getting the standby temps and nozzle switching macros dialed in will take lots of time.

 

[DubbleTrubble]

By performance do you mean how do the original prodcuts work compared to the Chinese knock offs?

Yes, that's what I mean. Thanks

 

[burdickjp]

Yes, that's what I mean. Thanks

They're more consistent in their manufacturing tolerances. Their coatings perform well. They've been at this game for a long time and know what they're doing.

 

[DubbleTrubble]

They're more consistent in their manufacturing tolerances. Their coatings perform well. They've been at this game for a long time and know what they're doing.

Thanks. I run into various problems when printing but am still learning and am not always able to attribute problems to a specific hardware issue. It would be helpful to hear from you what kind of improvements in printing you've experienced using Micro Swiss nozzles vs. other lesser other brands of nozzles. Where do you see the difference? Thanks again. I appreciate the info.

 

[burdickjp]

Thanks. I run into various problems when printing but am still learning and am not always able to attribute problems to a specific hardware issue. It would be helpful to hear from you what kind of improvements in printing you've experienced using Micro Swiss nozzles vs. other lesser other brands of nozzles. Where do you see the difference? Thanks again. I appreciate the info.

I'll be honest and say I haven't played with cheap hardware in a long time. My current workhorse thermoplastic printer is an Ultimaker 3 Extended, and it's getting a bit old. The best I can say is that successful printing is a battle to avoid a death by a thousand cuts. There's a thousand things which contribute to poor prints. Any one improvement is minute and, at times, imperceptible but the combination of factors adds up.

About half of those thousand things can be avoided by purchasing quality hardware up-front and the other half can be avoided by purchasing quality feedstock.

 

[GiroDyno]

About half of those thousand things can be avoided by purchasing quality hardware up-front and the other half can be avoided by purchasing quality feedstock.

Don't buy the cheapest filament, even if you think its a good idea since you're gonna burn through a bunch figuring stuff out. It'll take you 10x as long (or longer) to make progress if your material sucks
And use a Filament Dryer when applicable (always?)

 

[sinned]

Thanks. I run into various problems when printing but am still learning and am not always able to attribute problems to a specific hardware issue. It would be helpful to hear from you what kind of improvements in printing you've experienced using Micro Swiss nozzles vs. other lesser other brands of nozzles. Where do you see the difference? Thanks again. I appreciate the info.

Good nozzles do not fix crappy filament or a shitty print. Having consistent extrusion from a nozzle removes that variable from the equation.

To put it in perspective: I have been int he reprap game for 10 years now. I have seen all sorts of things come and go. Consistency and repeatability is key. For Mk10 all metal, Microswiss is the way to go. Even with E3D V6, I run Microswiss nozzles and heatbrakes.

Slicers: KISS slicer and Prusaslicer is by far the most consistent and reliable. Yes, KISS UI sucks but it just makes darned good prints that are consistent and reliable.