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OT: GM driving procedure for get sensors on the vehicle to be recognized after the computer is reset?

The premise that you should have to pay to find out how to get the car they designed to behave is appalling. We can justify that under all sorts of reasons but it doesn't change the bottom line - they have laid out yet another way to pick your pockets. Don't forget, they have zero cost in telling you their procedure. Zero.

The term 'gaslighting' has come into vogue as of late, and is used incorrectly in most cases by people who are trying their damndest to sound smart. But, gaslighting is exactly what automakers (and many other businsses) have adopted as a way of operation. They slowly make changes over time, knowing the public won't notice or care when it's done in small increments. 50 years ago only a few idiots would buy a car knowing they can't fix it...nowadays, people just accept that.
The term is incrementalism.
Throw a frog into a boiling pot of water and it will jump out.
Throw same frog into a cool pot of water and raise the temperature slowly. Nice frog, cooked frog.
 
Buying another car, in this scenario, is the ultimate failure. As humans, we try to avoid failure, not embrace it.
 
please, in english.
I don't know how to say this in Japanese. But in English it comes out as Tundra...

The vehicle computer has to be reset every time there is a repair on one or more sensors. If the battery is disconnected you get your reset that way.
I don't know if there is a textbook way to do it. Regardless of that, now the vehicle has to run a period of time for the sensors to become recognized.
At this time most of them will be displayed as not ready on the under-dash connection-to-readout. This is a small box with a LCD display. Another
foreign car I have has the diagrams of the serial bit streams that come out of the computer. I was planning to build a project to display the codes.
But at this point the vehicle (CA) cannot be smog tested until all the monitors become ready.

This document in front of me looks like it was fished out of a bunch of customer problems and possible fixes.

"How to Perform a Chevy Drive Cycle"
condition on and rear defroster on.
accelerate to 55 mph
hold steady for 3 min
decelerate, coast to 20 mph
accelerate at 3/4 throttle to 55 mph
hold steady for 5 min
decelerate.

Then there are individual procedures for CAT, EGR, O2.
The above steps are just bits and pieces of those three pages.
 
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We had this happen on a Nissan once. Couldn't get the car smogged / registered (California) because the sensors wouldn't reset. We went through the drive procedure a couple dozen times, no luck. Dealer didn't know what was going on but politely offered to replace the ECU for a few thousand bucks (more than the car was worth).

Ended up shipping to car to a relative in another state.
Must be a money making racket. Strip off the smog equipment and transfer your fumes to another set of people in another state. :ack2:
 
I was having some trouble getting my vehicle back for the weekend. So I flooded the office with this problem.
And when I found the most understanding guy, I said: "Has anyone ever came into the dealership with a gun or knife because they were pissed?"

The service manager gave me a call back within the hour. :D
 
Personally...I wouldn't go around making threats related to gun violence these days....you might find a dozen SWAT guys outside your door and spend that precious weekend having your cavities probed by the FBI.
 
I don't know how to say this in Japanese. But in English it comes out as Tundra...

The vehicle computer has to be reset every time there is a repair on one or more sensors. If the battery is disconnected you get your reset that way.
I don't know if there is a textbook way to do it. Regardless of that, now the vehicle has to run a period of time for the sensors to become recognized.
At this time most of them will be displayed as not ready on the under-dash connection-to-readout. This is a small box with a LCD display. Another
foreign car I have has the diagrams of the serial bit streams that come out of the computer. I was planning to build a project to display the codes.
But at this point the vehicle (CA) cannot be smog tested until all the monitors become ready.

This document in front of me looks like it was fished out of a bunch of customer problems and possible fixes.

"How to Perform a Chevy Drive Cycle"
condition on and rear defroster on.
accelerate to 55 mph
hold steady for 3 min
decelerate, coast to 20 mph
accelerate at 3/4 throttle to 55 mph
hold steady for 5 min
decelerate.

Then there are individual procedures for CAT, EGR, O2.
The above steps are just bits and pieces of those three pages.
please, just pay a mechanic to look at it.......... I can tell you obviously have no idea what you are doing.

monitors run automatically when criteria is met. criteria that sounds like you havent fixed anything yet.
also have not explaned anything of exactly what is wrong with it, maybe because you dont have an actual scan tool to read specific sensors and values.

chevy has specific drive cycles and sounds like you are just trying to get the catalyst monitors to pass, disconnecting the batteries in a car now wont reset anything as they have a permanent memory as compared to years past. some codes retest after etc 3 key cycles, others only reset with an actual scan tool, which makes all monitors not ready when reset.
 
"Buying another car, in this scenario, is the ultimate failure."

Frogs are smarter than humans. They avoid the boiling failure - sometimes humans just give the fuck up.
 
Frogs are smarter than humans. They avoid the boiling failure - sometimes humans just give the fuck up.
Well....it's hard to argue against the stupidity of humans but certainly the frog's decision to jump out of the water is less expensive and more clear-cut than buying a new car.
 
Missing the point. Folks say you can boil a frog alive if you do it slowly. Wrong, the frog figures it out and jumps. Humans get boiled alive by vehicle costs, and never jump out of the pond. They just keep coming back for more, either a) throwing money into the car to keep it alive, or b) buying the same kind of car that eventually experiences the same problems.
 
Yep. Sister in Law had a Volvo S50 (?) car she bought new, maintained it religiously at the dealer. At 7 years and 59K miles, the crankshaft broke in two as she was driving 60MPH down the highway...as fast as she ever drives. She was livid. She told the dealer she would never buy another car from Volvo, and she meant it. I mulled this over as I also mulled over the fact that what had initiated the conversation was she had pulled up in a shiny new Volvo SUV.....
 
please, just pay a mechanic to look at it.......... I can tell you obviously have no idea what you are doing.

monitors run automatically when criteria is met. criteria that sounds like you havent fixed anything yet.
also have not explaned anything of exactly what is wrong with it, maybe because you dont have an actual scan tool to read specific sensors and values.

chevy has specific drive cycles and sounds like you are just trying to get the catalyst monitors to pass, disconnecting the batteries in a car now wont reset anything as they have a permanent memory as compared to years past. some codes retest after etc 3 key cycles, others only reset with an actual scan tool, which makes all monitors not ready when reset.
The dealer is doing all the work. Later my smog guy shows me the readout on his handheld instrument.
So much for you assumptions.
 
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Things have obviously changed since I retired but getting a car to reset all the flags showing test and passed was frustrating to the shop techs. Particularly the Evaporative Emissions system. Specific sequential component and sensor diagnostic tests have to be accomplished in a specific order. Every sensor must test and pass that is required to monitor the next system tested. Getting the vehicle to get through the fuel system integrity and vent and purge performance required the fuel tank and plumbing to pass the sealed condition. Temperature and time conditions are spec’d and if the weather and temperature don’t co-operate the tests don’t run. The vapor pressure of fuel conspires with the ambient conditions. Can’t f with mother nature. That is the primary issue with completing the drive cycle. Hateful all around. Thank you EPA
Joe
 
The dealer is doing all the work. Later my smog guy shows me the readout on his handheld instrument.
So much for you assumptions.
so what about the readout on it? lacking a large amount of information here still.
still doesn't say they are fixing it now or?
what exactly are you looking to accomplish or gain?
 
so what about the readout on it? lacking a large amount of information here still.
still doesn't say they are fixing it now or?
what exactly are you looking to accomplish or gain?
Bottom line in Kalifornia is a smog test is required for a license sticker and the registration sheet for the glove box.
As long as you vehicle computer and all it's sensors are cooperating. The Cat converter is still not ready.

For you. I try to leave details out when asking a question. Some users get mad even with the OT title.

I went to the dealer in Oct because of the service light. This was identified as an evap sensor replacement.
I went there again for a service in Dec.due to the same service light code which appeared in Oct.
They did not test this evap system probably because the computer had to have time to recognize things.
At the Dec. service they said we have to drop the gas tank and install a pressure sensor. This was on the same fault code as before.
That doesn't seem fair to me. I have drive 700 miles to get the same fault code. Faults come in parallel to a computer, not serially.
From Dec. to Mar. I got the total miles to 1250 and still the three sensors listed below were not ready. In total the
vehicle has been at the dealer for four weeks. For the last two weeks their smog guy is driving the vehicle home
and trying to get the monitors to be recognized. There were three unrecognized sensors, now there are two left that are unrecognized.
I have driven 1250 or more miles myself before the Mar. drop off. Now there is like 300 more miles on the thing.
Periodically in my 1250 or so miles I went to the independent smog test place and looked at the instrument readout.

Three sensors always not ready.
Cat Convertor
Secondary air
EGR valve (recognized as of last week due to the dealer's smog guy)

The dealer is charging me 1 hr of labor for this driving stuff with their guy driving my truck to and from work. It's been two weeks so far.
I arranged to get the truck for this weekend and return it on Monday. Then it goes on for another week. This problem has been around
for 5.5 months.

The governor of this state wants everybody to drive electric real soon.
So where can you get an electric 8' pickup truck? I know.
Go to Kountz Customs in Las Vegas with my newly purchased Tesla.
Ask them to replace the Tesla body with a custom pickup body. If I had the money?
 
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