Rescraping means one thing leading to another, though. I started out in T&D for a hearing-aid firm, 0-3/8" B&S micrometer, surface plate flat to 50 millionths, but only 6" x 8" was all the bigger needed when working under 20X binocular or 40X monocular B&L microscopes. Moved directly to rebuilding mining and railway gear where 48" measuring tools for a 100-ton crane turntable or 'tires' for forged-centre wheels - even ocomotive axles and 100 HP DC motor end-bells HAD to be company-furnished. None of us could afford 'em personally when 'union scale' was as little as $2.13/hour and peaked at under $5. West Virginia was the 'China' of that day and age...
'at some point' I shall need to use a master precision level to determine how much work 17120 will need - then again to undertake said work. But have precious little use for such a metrology device otherwise.
In my search for an affordable level, I have come across several master precision SQUARES.
Some of these are touting .0002 precision vice .0005 for a good level-only. Hard to swallow from the look of 'em, but ...
..Further, while perhaps a bit awkward for leveling a lathe bed, they are considerably more useful for checking verticals and shaft and driveline face-mounting alignments.
Given a budget that says one or the other, but not both, Might I ask your experienced views on the merits of such a device relative to a level-only?
Harry, The reverse rod handle that's on the top right side of the apron.... I'm going to make one from scratch. The next day or so would you mind measuring the lenght of your handle from center of the rod to the end of the knob? Also is is a straight handle or does it have an offset in it. The photos you took of yours a while back were a profile. I can't tell if it has an offset or not. Thanks for all the help and advice. Aj [email protected]
I'm going to be pulling apart the apron on my C-16, probably this weekend, and I'm wondering if there is anything I really need to be careful of. I'm pretty careful and don't force things but we will be using a fork lift and heavy duty straps and things can happen. It appears from when you did it, it's pretty straight forward...remove the back bolts and remove the hex key bolts from the top and or the side of the apron, and gently lift? I will be looking over what you posted over the time you did your big lathe...I even went as far as to print it out and put it in a looseleaf book. I'm looking forward to seeing this machine back up and running well! Thanks for any input you have already done and will do in the future! All is greatly appreciated.
As with pipe organ restoration, it looks daunting to the average person, but we've done quite a few and it's childs play, kinda what doing these machines is for you!
Is this Harry Bloom? A friend of mine, Bob Grant, suggested I give you a shout. My name is Kenny Logsdon and I live in Louisville and I have an opportunity to purchase a very old Leblond vertical mill that some think my be a converted tool grinder. There is a current discussion in the Antiques section. Please take a look at the posts (link below) and, if you don't mind, give me your thoughts. The deal would include a South Bend 9x36 lathe (no quick change) and all related tooling to both all for $800. I am trying to determine if that is steep or a steal. Thanks, Kenny http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/showthread.php/help-me-leblond-no-188447.html
I can see no reason why the geared TA shouldn't work on other brands. I do strongly advise a ball bearing type TA, especially on the steep taper set up. You can expect an increase in HP requirements.