Stripped down the 6f powerfeed motor and controls to get it working after long storage- controlbox and motor all a bit oily but cleaned up and got working again - I think it had previous work on it and not sealed properly - - Im going to use paper gaskets for the pot cover and front cover -...
Ive just replaced my bullgear bearings - they should be open bearings so the oil will run through them and lubricate the quill powerfeed gears below- any excess drips down the quill into the spindle bearings.
Some people use sealed 6208 bearings instead of the correct A/C bearings and grease...
Ive got new A/C bearings for the large bullgear in my J head - I will be keeping the oil cup system of lubrication.
The bearings are open - but do I grease them for the first time and then let the oil gradually take over or just give them a good oiling from the start?
There are some Nachi 7208CYDU GL[light preload] P4 on ebay for £120pair that would save me £80 compared to 7208CDU P4 on bearingboys.
Do you think these would be ok?
sorry for all the questions, not that clued up on bearings, Im guesing there,s not a lot of thrust on the bullgear hub
Cheers, sounds like a plan - the 34Lj40s would cost me £160 pair anyway
Guess they are put in back to back and tighten the locknut up as tight as possible?
I have decided to change the noisy bearings large bullgear bearings on my 1974 J head. After some research and reading the "Renovating BP" guide although the guide says that they are A/C bearings - Ive read they used M208 deep groove bearings and were ground for preload to act like A/C...
The bull gears are meant to be oiled - but some builders [likeH&W] will grease them as an alternative, as a precaution to them not being oiled in the future [ lack of maintainance]
The new units I ordered haven't any fibre filter in them - you can see the brass gauze. Thats why I picked all the fibre out of the old ones - the old ones have gauze filters in them
I was recently changing 3 FJB0 units to FJB1s
and I tried cleaning the others - degreaser and compressed air. When I looked into the input end of the old units they were packed with fibres - I wasn't sure if this was some kind of filter so didn't want to mess too much. The new units arrived and...
Hardness isn't the main criteria for these- its more about the weight. Lighter saddles will give a little more resonance than steel. My concern was being cheap Chinee parts from ebay - that they are actually titanium and not steel coated in a titanium coloured finish - I was under the...
Machining and grinding are impractical as the component is small and I dont want to mark it anymore than it is. You can see the underside of the saddle has filed quite easily and Im sure it would cut in 2 with a hacksaw. I would be doubtful that they are a high grade titanium, but can the...
I recently bought some titanium saddles for my Fender Stratocaster guitar. For those unfamiliar they are bent steel [approx. 1mm thick] They were from China and a lot cheaper than usual titanium manufacurers, so I tested them with a file and they filed quite easily - getting the edge of a file...
This website or its third-party tools process personal data (e.g. browsing data or IP addresses) and use cookies or other identifiers, which are necessary for its functioning and required to achieve the purposes illustrated in the cookie policy. To learn more, please refer to the cookie policy. In case of sale of your personal information, you may opt out by sending us an email via our Contact Us page. To find out more about the categories of personal information collected and the purposes for which such information will be used, please refer to our privacy policy. You accept the use of cookies or other identifiers by closing or dismissing this notice, by scrolling this page, by clicking a link or button or by continuing to browse otherwise.