Whatever you are familiar with is the best.
Fusion360 if you are an autodesk person. If you are a solidworks person who doesn't want to pay the ridiculous money, I use Alibre Design Pro and like it.
No big surprise there, you are throwing 600* air at it, it's going to have thermal expansion.
Not shrinking when it cools is relative to material like ABS that can easily get layer splits from warping just coming off the print bed.
I think there are a couple of easy options.
Split the...
I'd try to do your prints so there isn't a splice. Different size rolls and maybe more waste.
No way would I put anything on the surface, glue is just going to break adhesion. I do print nylon directly from a drybox though. Haven't had to do any splicing of rolls yet.
If you want it as a flashlight, just toss it. Buy a new LED light from a quality brand and be happy. My preference is Streamlight, but there are a world of different ones out there.
I bought one of those cases, but in a pistol flavor back in ~02 or so. Had a guy airbrush flames coming off a bullet on it. Was the only one like it at the range.
On flashlights in vehicles I normally put a piece of paper between the tailcap and battery contacts so they don't drain themselves.
That would personally be a selling point to me for cheap leave in the car lights.
Quick skim of the video looks like a decent walk through. He's really slow on that install, more like 3 seconds.
Here is a very quick and dirty graph of some insert testing I did with 1/4"-20 heat set inserts and PLA. Two sets, one printed flat on its face, and one printed standing up on...
I use them quite a bit on any project I expect to screw fasteners in more than once or twice.
The cheapo ones from amazon are junk and don't hold worth a darn.
I use the Tri-Star series H inserts and buy them from Digi-Key. They are the tapered heat set insert that McMaster normally...
Never shot a Hammerli 106, but I've got a Toz, they are nice guns if you want to scratch the free pistol itch. More interesting was the Franken-Toz that Daryl Szarenski was shooting that the USAMU made for him.
Some years ago I was at a large rail road track testing facility doing some work. They commented they don't use soldered connections for their sensors on locomotives/cars/tracks because they fail due to the vibrations and crimping was superior for them.
The Prusa Mk 4 is a nice machine.
That being said I have a Bambu X1C at home that gets all my use right now, and a X1C at work as well. If I need more throughput I'll happily buy a second, third, or fourth one. It is enclosed so it plays nicer in a shop environment and makes some of the...
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