Great work Stephen, proud to have provided some of the stock for your restoration!
I use 1/2" 4T hook blades for resawing veneers. The 3T are faster, but the kerf is wider, get better yield from the 4T. Sometimes yield was critical if I needed a certain number of veneers from a board to make...
Have the logs been sawn yet? Some of the bugs are only interested in the sapwood.
Heat treating works well, anyone with a kiln should know all about this stuff
After potting up with solid rod bases for years, I bought a Noga articulated arm base and it has become my go to. So much easier to get the indicator tip exactly where I want it
I have a shelix on my little 6" PM 50, and I love it - handles intensely curly hard maple with no tearout, and doesn't dull with rosewood and ebony.
Hard to say whether you'd get your money back on a sale, but I suspect there are more than a few people out there who would prefer the older...
Look at McMaster Carr. They have them with points to hammer into the wood, or the shape you want.
https://www.mcmaster.com/tee-nuts/?fbclid=IwAR29mtCaalQ6OTimuwD-KNkKovbi1sCJfjVufKIOAmQNVFfsLn-_L2LemhA
Nice work, gorgeous wood!
I used to drive around in PA & NY looking for sawmills like that, hoping they had hung on to some highly figured stock. Often someone would throw it up in the rafters. Fun way to spend a day, met some interesting people, and got some super wood.
This is very interesting, thanks guys. I think I dodged that bullet when I bought my Boyar Schultz 612 and dusted the chuck 25 years ago. I was a woodworker just getting into precision metal work, and another guy at the sale gave me some advice.