I don’t have the hand wheel yet but it will have a round bore. I may buy or make a hand wheel so I can drill the bore in the hub to the right diameter. I like the setscrew idea - simple and uncomplicated!
Hi all. I’d like to attach a cast iron hand wheel to a threaded adjuster rod for an English wheel. The part of the rod that will attach to the hand wheel/lower adjuster wheel will not be threaded. This is for the lower adjuster mechanism. I’m trying to figure out the best way to accomplish this...
I have an old Ranalah English wheel which I’m trying to get back into service. The threaded rod for the lower anvil adjuster binds and is unusable. I removed it with great difficulty and measured the thread as 5/8-11 SAE. This is an English machine made during the 1930s so I’m guessing it should...
So Skoda makes more than just cars!
I’m looking for one size chuck to start as the tooling is adding up fast! What would a versatile size be? I will try to avoid the China Jacobs chucks for sure.
Ok I get it now - the chuck has a mount size and then you get an arbor that accommodates the chuck on one end and the tailstock taper on the other. What is a good overall chuck size to get if I were to get one chuck? Also the arbors seem to to mostly have a tang on the shank end. Is this ok?
Thank you for all this! With respect to the Jacobs ball bearing chuck, do I buy it with a separate 2MT shaft? I’m not really seeing any with taper shaft attached to chuck with the exception of live chucks- not sure what a live chuck is used for.
I’m in the process of buying tooling for this lathe. I’m leaning towards an Aloris axa toolpost, maybe bxa. I also want a live center, dead center and tailstock drill chuck. Any recommendations on these? Does the tailstock take a #2 Morse taper?
I’m new to lathes altogether so forgive my ignorance, but how can you tell that both z and x feeds are engaged?
The feed belt is the frayed yellow one I assume?
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