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10EE Taper Clamp casting possibility - Martin Model

CLRacer3

Plastic
Joined
Apr 23, 2010
Location
Texas
I ordered a tailstock lock handle from Martin model recently and in conversation, Mr. Martin mentioned if he had a pattern for the 10EE taper attachment clamp, he could possibly cast it as well. I don't have one to send him but thought it was worth mentioning in case anyone out there is interested and has a line on one that could be used for a pattern.

His website is https://www.martinmodel.com
 
I'm considering sending him mine for a pattern. There is a part of the bottom flange that broke off, but I could build that back on with epoxy or bondo for a pattern
I think the buyer will have to do the mill work anyway. He may want to add some material in the v for the ways. He will know what to do.
I would talk to him first.
I know he could sell a few
 
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Not sure if this helps anyone, but I made a 3D model of the clamp using the dimensions provided on this post:


The model can be scaled up to compensate for shrinkage and 3D printed for making a pattern. I can add material in some areas for machining and remove the hole if need.

If someone would like to contribute to this model and help make it an assembly for future reference, please provide me with dimensions of the other components (screw, nut, washer, pin and plate, etc) of the clamp. I can make a parts list, drawings and explodedviews of the assembly.

10ee Clamp.JPG10ee Clamp1.JPG10ee Clamp2.JPG10ee Clamp3.JPG10ee Clamp4.JPG10ee Clamp5.JPGTaper Clamp.png
 
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Please keep us updated if you send him your casting. I would definitely buy one.
I'm considering sending him mine for a pattern. There is a part of the bottom flange that broke off, but I could build that back on with epoxy or bondo for a pattern
I think the buyer will have to do the mill work anyway. He may want to add some material in the v for the ways. He will know what to do.
I would talk to him first.
I know he could sell a few
 
If a guy has a machine shop why couldn't he make one?
A friend of mine has a 12 CK. I loaned him the clamp from mine and he made his own.
He's just a learned on his own hobby shop guy.
 

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Bill.
Martinmodel makes the cow horn shaped tailstock handle. It won't sell in huge numbers. I think it would fit what martinmodel does. It would help some lathe only owners.
It doesn't even have to be the exact shape but it looks good.

Owners that aren't equipped with a mill would buy one. No huge market but there are members asking for a source from time to time.
I have seen a few members here buy the tailstock clamping handle from him.


Chips Everywhere
I'll get you the specs on the bottom plate and the clamping bolt and post here. Your drawings will help anyone equipped to make one

I will send martinmodel mine for a pattern if he is interested in making them.
I need to give him a call. I've been procrastinating. :scratchchin:
 
I called Martin Model today and am sending him my bed clamp as a model.
Sooo there may be a source for bed clamps in the works.
Ill post here when I get it shipped. Someone get on my ass if I dont get back here in 7 days.
 
I'm still trying to convince myself whether or not there is a difference between a round and square dial taper attachment. Can anyone confirm?

I found the attached drawing someplace around here and I don't know if I believe it yet.

Brian
 

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The dimension of square dial in the drawing Brian posted is 3.56 and that matches my square dial clamp.
Now if someone with a round dial could verify the 3.87" on their taper att. clamp.
Now is a good time to verify this.
When Mr. Martin casts these parts the milling will still need to be done by the customer. So, he will have to give extra material in the area of the bed clamp pocket.
He may also leave a boss where the 3/8" rod hooks in to be drilled and slotted out.


There is about 5/16" difference in length according to the drawing. So, to make one clamp work on both lathes the boss out on the end could be extended by an additional 5/16" and the buyer would cut the slot for the 3/8" rod according to his lathe, round or square dial.
I can extend that boss out on the end by 5/16" with an epoxy and fill in the slot too make less work for Mr. Martin. I can model it in to look right. Then the customer cuts the slot for the bar.
On his cowhorn tailstock clamp he left the drilling and milling up to the customer.
I would mill the pocket for the bed clamp then clamp it on and let the 3/8" rod mark where to cut the slot.
Let me know your thoughts. Let's get this done.
 
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t.

I can confirm the 3.56 inch measurement on my square dial.

Thats x 2 on the square dial measurement now we need a Round Dial measurement.

I'm going to message Mr. Martin and ask him if he would join this conversation. He mentioned maybe doing that yesterday.
 
Couple pics of the clamp I made from drawing posted above, thanks to the guy that posted it. Made from 1 1/4 steel plate not as wide as the original but it will work ok. Only suggestion would be to move the hole back a bit so a lrger bolt would fit.
Bob
 

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That looks good bob. It's not that it's a hard piece to make. Some machining on the casting anyway. Not everyone has the equipment and some just prefer the casting. This usually comes up for discussion. It's just preference.
I'm working on shaping the small broken flange and hope to ship it to martin model Monday. I suspect that he will only cast a few to see how they sell. At least there will be a source for anyone wanting to buy one.
He also sells that handle for the tailstock clamp, and it could be cut out of plate.
 
My concern with something like that is that it's so strong that if/when you over-travel the taper-attachment, you'll probably blow a hole in the bottom of the slide. The engineers at Monarch knew what they were doing. It's my belief that the original clamp was designed to fail first and save the rest of the unit.

Your clamp would be fine if you milled off the finger that hooks in front the rear way and install a rectangular block in its place, held on with a couple of small pins that are relieved such that they will snap off and release the clamp if the TA ever crashes.

Cal
 
AFIK, it's correct. But the original is made of cast iron, not cold-rolled steel plate (assuming that's what you used). I don't think there's any way that yours will fail the way that countless TA clamps have (and as I said, I believe that's by design). Now if you're OK with the possibility of destroying your TA in a crash, then carry on.

Cal
 
AFIK, it's correct. But the original is made of cast iron, not cold-rolled steel plate (assuming that's what you used). I don't think there's any way that yours will fail the way that countless TA clamps have (and as I said, I believe that's by design). Now if you're OK with the possibility of destroying your TA in a crash, then carry on.

Cal
Yeah if you run the tool into the chuck it will damage something much more likely than what you are dreaming about. I’m no metallurgist but I doubt very much there would be a huge between cast and steel. I suspect they were cast because it would be cheaper.
 








 
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