Given that ER collets still work with slightly smaller endmills, and that bad things happen when end mills are oversized, is there a standard (or industry best practice) that require end mill shanks to be slightly undersized (less than nominal size), in order to bring the probability of endmills...
One advantage (at least a theoretical one) I can see for R8 over the Iso30, is that holding straight shank endmills, the iso30 setup has one more component (a collet chuck),
A) ISO30 Setup:
ISO30-spindle < collet-chuck < er32-collet < endmill
B) R8 Setup:
I'm considering getting a manual bench mill that can be supplied with either an MT3, ISO30, or R8 spindle.
It's my first mill, and I have no tools yet, I want chose the spindle type that I won't regret later.
From what I've read, morse tapers aren't great for milling, so unless I hear...
It seems that a compromise/optimum is needed to obtain the right thickness of paint spread on the granite: not enough paint, and the blue will be very faint, hardly visible, too much paint, and you get "fake" high spots, in the extreme, even the lowest spots become blue,
I watched some videos...
I understand that for sliding surfaces (dovetail, etc.,) the pockets left by scraping are desirable, because they allow oil to remain longer between surfaces.
I was wondering if, for instruments like straight edges, it would be a good or bad idea to lap the surfaces after scraping.
Perhaps I wasn't clear: the sliding surfaces I wrote about are the ones that slide against each other during the fine adjustment of the chuck for runout correction.
In other words, the surfaces that slide on two axis when the 4 screws are adjusted.
They don't move much, but they must move...
I dissembled a buck chuck for a clean up, and I'm wondering if the bearing surfaces that slide against one another during the adjustments (perpendicular to the rotation axis), should be oiled, and if so, what kind of oil.
I'm thinking that way oil would be a good option, but wanted to enquire.
There doesn't appear to be a shim under the bed plate, but I did not remove it.
I know there are "schools of thought" on weather a bed plate can be removed and put back without adverse effects, I found the horror stories rather convincing, so I chose non intervention in this case !
It's not so much the spindle bearings that would worry me, but the screws holding the tailstock to the bed.
It also look like the belt at the other end tied to the bed is exerting huge upward force on the saddle, and whatever is holding the saddle down is not meant to hold that much force.
Ok, I put back the headstock, with the shim, and the tailstock deadcenter align perfectly with a pin held by a 5c collet in the spindle.
The shim is there for a good reason. I'm still curious as to when the shim was added, and why.
The tailstock has turcite under it, I believe it's the cas...
I removed the headstock of my newly aquired 1956 Hardinge HLV-BK, and there was a 0.1mm brass shim between it and the bed.
I've read about many instances of elevating the tailstock after a bed grind, can't think of a reason to elevate a headstock, other than wanting to align to an elevated...
I have nothing against going cheep-azz, in fact I'm quite tempted by this ATO 5HP : https://www.ato.com/5hp-vfd
judging from the manual, it seems pretty good : https://www.ato.com/Content/doc/gk3000-variable-frequency-drive-user-manual.pdf
Besides being half the cost of a DuraPulse, it could...
And now that I've looked around, I noticed that good deals on 5hp motors are more common than I thought.
As for VFDs, it's another story, the ones that can drive a 5hp while fed single phase current are pretty expensive, unless I get one of the Chinese brands that sell on amazon...
The 5hp motor solution seemed like the best choice, but then I stumbled on a "like new" 2HP Baldor SuperE motor at 1/5 the cost, at 20 minutes driving distance, and bought it.
According to the calculations below (based on the principle that HP degrades proportionally to RPM below 60hz), the 2hp...
The sheet on the Baldor site is the same as the one I posted.
Just to make sure I understand the rule of the thumb, is the following correct :
60 Hz (1755 RPM) -> 2HP
30 Hz (878 RPM) -> 1HP
15 Hz (439 RPM) -> 0.5HP
7.5 Hz (219.5 RPM) -> 0.25HP
I'm trying to see how well this Baldor motor...