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Solved: Hitachi tech recommended jumping CM2 to L, running P24 to light and 11 as common with C21 set to 00

Plugging in an LED indicator light. It’s an Eaton model M22 LED W 12-30VAC. Shows 5-14mA so it’s under the 50mA max.

Having the run light during on is eluding me. I tried plugging into ‘11’ and CM2 with C021 set to 00, nothing. Tried AL1/2 and AL0 with c026 set to 00, nothing. Tried 01 also, nothing I tested the led, it works.

Thank you, kindly!

Ah, very odd. These electronics know how to keep life interesting, Hah. While we’re on the subject of this inverter, does anyone know how to hookup a run indicator light to the 24v outputs? It’s not obvious based on the manual but my switch has a LED feature. I’ve got an external braking...

Resolved, setting C012 needed to be set to 01. I spoke with Hitachi tech and the fellow who helped me was excellent. Thanks also for the help, gents!

Yeah, followed that guide. A001 is set to 01. Forgive my ignorance but where do I pickup 10v power?

Need some trouble shooting help. I installed a 3ph 3hp motor powered by a Hitachi WJ200 drive. Motor runs fine, starts/stops on the keypad controls. I want to run push button controls and so I thought I setup the inverter to accept push button controls. In doing so I swapped the logic...

Would this transformer perform the task? McMaster-Carr Thank you Brian

Thanks, Tom. I guess my misunderstanding here is that I assumed using 120v for the coil would mean that I could take one leg off of the incoming lines to accomplish that. Sounds like that won’t work so I’ll go ahead and pickup a transformer.

I'm building out a control box for a machine I recently acquired. Original wiring was hacked up pretty badly by previous owner so I decided to start fresh and add modern safety stuff to this machine which was designed to use a simple disconnect to start the motor. 230v 3ph coming in off a...

They are rewinding it. I’m moving from the disconnect/contactor to a disconnect and mag starter with push button controls.

I dropped it off at the shop and it’s being rewound. They tested it and none of the markings made any sense. So it should be 9 wire when complete.

Glad to hear that sounds reasonable. I can’t understand why they did any of this modifying. Who buys a machine such as this, then has an “electrician” hack it up rather than spending a few bucks on a rotary phase converter and plugging it in like normal. These machine were a large...

I’m going to bring it to a motor shop tomorrow, fellow there wants to check it out. He suspects it might be a six lead motor with two thermal overloads. I’m not super keen toward the idea of replacing it simply because I don’t yet know how it’s wired. It’s made with custom mounts and such so...

3ph input and full power is what I’m looking for. Thanks for the detailed replies. I’m not terribly interested in replacing the motor so long as it’s functional. Not doing a restoration, I’d like it to be properly done and functional. Needs to have full power becuase I’ll be making passes...

Motor tag Peckerhead This is where the wiring ties together, the switch to start this is a simple disconnect which I assume is wired into what looks like a contactor. There is an amp meter also installed which ties in here. It’s broken, so I may be replacing that also. Another of...

I have a Japanese made ‘super surfacer’ machine which was produced most likely in the 70’s or 80’s. It was originally wired for “220v” 3ph. The previous owner had someone hack in a static converter by putting a starter and capacitor in the peckerhead. They messed with all of the wiring to...

Thank you!

I have students in my shop so an E-switch is necessary and ideally should start an active braking program. Hitachi has the resistor built in which is a nice feature.