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I just threw up in my mouth a little...

I like M.A. Ford's 79 series, slow speed and cutting fluid = no chatter: https://www.maford.com/product/countersinks

Tighten the gib up so it's fairly snug, if that doesn't help I'd think you'd havta shim the low side up. Please tell us it wasn't you that painted that machine fuchsia?

Just did this on my Emco awhile back and was debating to go two or three, SO glad I put one on the compound as well! https://www.practicalmachinist.com/forum/threads/lathe-dro-install.399431/#post3885062

Kennametal make nice holders, not cheap but you get what you pay for.

Here's a good resource: http://www.carbidedepot.com/formulas-insert-d.htm You've got a lot of different style inserts there and decent holders are expensive, I'd narrow it down to a couple of types you think you'll use the most and flog the rest. The ones near the bottom look like grooving...

If it's the bolt that's bad why not just replace it? I uploaded a manual here: https://groups.io/g/EmcoSuper11lathes/files/V13 parts list/Maximat V13.pdf It's called a "center bolt", D1A 050 090 on pg 16. Try Fleebay...

https://www.practicalmachinist.com/forum/threads/new-dro-installation.371040/

I like his work boots.

With that feedback rating I wouldn't be worried about a scam but as dalgirl said Ebay will refund your money pretty quick if it's not right. If he can't just sell it to you at your price could he re-list it with a buy it now at that price?

I guess the OP got what he was looking for, you're welcome...

I've made some fairly high tolerance parts from S-7 and heat treated them to 60Rc, it moves very little. https://fordtoolsteels.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/10/LSS_S7.pdf http://www.interlloy.com.au/our-products/tool-steel/s7-shock-resisting-tool-steel/?output=pdf...

Better it goes to a good home and get used rather than sitting idle in the corner collecting dust. Good machines like to run!

Any way to cut down all the wasted space in/between posts? Can you increase the posts per page to 40 as well?

I figured that 0 +/- 0.002" is likely within the OP's definition of "spot on", therefore my answer "NO" to his original question is valid.

"is it really important to get both centre drill holes spot on coaxial and parallel?" I see your point of course, for a perfect set up the center drilled holes should be coaxial. So the real question then is what is the definition of "spot on"?

The OP's original question: is it really important to get both centre drill holes spot on coaxial and parallel? My answer: NO!

I haven't read all the posts but am I missing the obvious here? When a shaft is turned between centers wont it be as round/straight/true on the diameter as the machine is capable? Even if the ends are not drilled exactly in the center of the stock?

There are many different types of loctite "red" threadlockers, you havta look at the TDS for specs: https://www.henkel-adhesives.com/ca/en/search.html?filterType=Products&facetedSearch.productcategory=Threadlockers I use 263 a lot and if applied right you need quite a bit of heat to loosen it...

I did some 1/16" holes 4" deep a while back (65D) and they came out straight to less than 0.010". Started with a carbide stub drill, then jobber length and finally 6" aircraft length, these worked great...