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    Should I reset tailstock live center pressure before finish turning?

    Yeah, you can tell that the center pressure is tighter after the shaft is heated up from roughing, because sometimes it is quite hard to retract before finishing. I had shafts before that got that hot from roughing, that they burnt me pretty good when I laid my arms on them by accident while...
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    Should I reset tailstock live center pressure before finish turning?

    I should state that I am running a Lodge and Shipley manual lathe, and I was roughing out and semi finishing bars to go to the CNC. Nothing really critical, I was just wondering if I should be resetting the tailstock pressure after roughing and before finishing. The bars are made from 669...
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    Should I reset tailstock live center pressure before finish turning?

    Is it common practice to reset the tailstock center pressure before finish turning a shaft? I used to do this, because the old timer that I was working with at the time, talked about keeping a check on tailstock center pressure as the shaft grew with heat. I know that they have spring loaded...
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    Picking up on a thread

    I'm guessing when the point of the threading insert is pointed right at the root of the thread, you should be lined up right, and you should be cutting on correct side of the insert.
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    Picking up on a thread

    When I pick up on a thread on a manual lathe, I engage the threading split nut and move the cross slide and compound rest hand wheels until the threading insert is centered with the existing thread on the part. I have never had a problem doing it this way, however is it the "best" way? I don't...
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    Workpiece becomes loose on centers when using dead center

    I understand what you mean about the center holes being drilled to the correct depth. I'm sure the #14 bell center hole was drilled to the correct depth because the entire "bell edge" was visible and came up flush to the end of the shaft; it was not drilled too deep to where the "bell edge" was...
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    Workpiece becomes loose on centers when using dead center

    These work piece were about 15" in length and about 1.500 in diameter. They were lightweight shafts. The reason why I was using a dead, half center and not a live center was because I was to face the finish face the ends square. These are Navy Shafts and I they want the faces to be square to...
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    Workpiece becomes loose on centers when using dead center

    Quote Originally Posted by JimK View Post "Nobody mentioned the clatter. When a piece is set up between centers and rotated with a Dawg, the dog's tail should make a slight clattering sound as the lathe goes around. This tells you that the centers are not binding. A litle judgement is in order...
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    steady rest bearings

    I agree with you here Stephen, and I have read about the "lacing the drive dog back to the faceplate" idea in the Southbend "How to Run a Lathe" book. I have done it myself before; how hard is it in reality? I am using a "Buck Chuck", same thing as an "adjustru", like what is pictured in Ray...
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    steady rest bearings

    I wouldn't mind trying a solid steady rest myself, just every lathe I've ever been placed on all had roller rests. I have be using a dead center in the tailstock now from time to time and don't mind that. The steady rest rollers on the machine I am running, I have saw .0004 t.i.r. I think...
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    steady rest bearings

    Awesome idea Gunsmith. I tried the 'rubber band on the shaft' idea tonight, and I think it did help keep the large chips from flowing back with the cutting oil towards the rollers. I still have yet to fill the machine with coolant and see if the coolant pump works on this old lathe. Your idea...
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    steady rest bearings

    Ok thanks! I like that rubber band idea. I do have the cardboard up all ready. I was thinking of running the coolant not on the rollers, but pass the coolant line through the steady rest fingers, (pointed towards the tailstock), and have the coolant flow pointed towards the tailstock to rinse...
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    steady rest bearings

    I'm going to try this at work; the coolant flow over the work area idea. To preserve accuracy, I always try to run the rollers as close to the end of the shaft as possible when I'm doing end work, and then I end up getting chips in the rollers. I was center drilling yesterday and the coolant I...
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    Toolbit getting pulled into part when roughing?

    Earlier tonight at work, I looked at the insert packaging. The insert I was using was a Sandvick brand, DNMG 1525 grade insert, with a 1/32" nose radius.
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    Toolbit getting pulled into part when roughing?

    Ok thanks again guys. Actually hickstick, your illustration is almost how I had the insert pointed. This is because the aluminum casting I was turning had a flange like that and it needed to be faced flat, and when facing, I only wanted the tip to cut and didn't want the whole side of the...
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    Toolbit getting pulled into part when roughing?

    It just says AMERICAN on the headstock, the compound rest is tight against the end of travel, front all the way. I have the aloris tool post block indicated in parallel with the cross slide. I will speed up the rpm to about 800 rpms. I ususally just tighten the front two tool holder screws...
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    Toolbit getting pulled into part when roughing?

    The diameter of the aluminum parts is 3.250" finish size so the rough casting was about 3.500". The length sticking out of the chuck that I was cutting was about 3". 0.0051 inches per revolution is what I was using for feed. The machine is an AMERICAN brand lathe. The carriage rides on a V...
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    Toolbit getting pulled into part when roughing?

    'Davis in SC' was wondering if the tool post was rotated counterclockwise a bit and wondering if the whole tool post might be turning and allowing the tool to go deeper into the work.
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    Toolbit getting pulled into part when roughing?

    The machine has a screw by the cross slide hand wheel that says "tighten when threading". I tightened it but it seems to not lock anything. The tool and die guy told me you probably have to turn the hand wheel far enough. It will probably stop the cross slide from going in any further, and...
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    What are options for building up a worn shaft?

    At the small general machine shop I started out at, they used to diamond knurl the surface and then file it back down to size. Lol I'm not saying do this but I just had to share. This was mostly used on farming equipment that needed to be back up and running ASAP.
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