good god he didn't ask for the heat treatment procedure, he asked if 1700F was close enough.
I don't have enough experience to give a good answer, but my gut says no simply because it's out of spec.
The HSS cutters will basically be as hard as usable when you get them (unless the manufacturer sucks). Even if they could be made harder, it's well beyond what you can achieve with a torch; if anything they will come out softer.
The RPM is pretty high, but manageable; worst case a hand drill in low will work with what I'm linking to.
Check these out McMaster-Carr, I've had great luck with them...you'll also need the correct arbor.
So you want to be able to run both single and three phase loads off the same panel? If that's the case, no you really need to have a single phase panel and a 3 phase panel for the RPC output.
What the manufacturer shows has is better because the connected loads will always get proper 3 phase...
So you want to bring single phase into a 3 phase panel on say L1 and L2, then supply the RPC with a 100A breaker connected to L1 and L2 and connect the generated leg back to L3; am I reading that right?
I can't see an obvious reason why it wouldn't work....may not be code compliant.
I think it's inside the operating envelope, but yes you would need to control a separate contactor with it.
Set voltage: 150-240
Release voltage: 140-230
It's just watching the generated leg to drop out the start cap or pony motor right? I've never built an RPC so please enlighten me if I'm...
They are apparently still aluminum oxide, but it's formed into pyramid shapes instead of randomly shaped. We can get a near mirror finish from them.
We use these...
You could use a diode isolator to charge both batteries while preventing them from discharging into each other.
I did it on my buddy's boat so that the "cranking" battery couldn't discharge into the "accessory" battery.
I totally understand the cosmetic reasons, most of my work is on handrail parts so I feel your pain...in that case I would agree that as may others have said, some sort of drilling and tapping guides would be the best approach.
If you could identify the guys that have issues getting the hole...
Not to reinvent your wheel, but have you considered using "rivet nuts" instead of drilling and tapping the hole?
They work pretty well in thin materials.
I 3D print a lot of PETG and I can tell you it's not very thread friendly.
As you have noticed it's very soft, and has a low deflection temperature.
All you can do is go slow and put something slick on it, PETG is pretty chemical resistant so WD-40 or mineral oil will help.
The easiest thing...
skunkworks, can you please elaborate on your Pi4 setup?
I've been playing with the idea of using one in a small CNC router I have, but didn't know if it was feasible or where to start.
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