0-1 Rc 63 cylindrical grinding, wheel recommendation

[michiganbuck]

Note: The Landis site says.
Dress at regular short intervals. Longer intervals between dresses can cause more downtime by increasing the amount of material needed to be removed from the wheel.

The better grinder hand will position the diamond close to the work so just travel over a short distance and so almost no time needed to skim .001 off the wheel.

 

[Dan from Oakland]

How are you dressing the radius into the wheel? Most lifters are ground with a 80" to 100" radius on the cam lobe contact surface. IF you are simply presenting the lifter to the wheel face at an angle, you are grinding a shallow cone on the end of the lifter, not a radius. Perhaps I'm missing something in your setup?

 

[stephen thomas]

lifter on the right is fresh grind, lifter on left is after polished on the speed lathe.

Something might be rattling (not rigid)...but... I have seen that finish with coarse wheels that are too soft for the app. Esp with a little vibration. Basically the grit is failing by chewing out as it grinds.

SG wheel might be good for the quantities you are doing, but dial in a conventional wheel a little closer so there's a benchmark before buying the expensive experiment.

Blue wheel on the wall sort of looks like the import (Camel, maybe?) that used to dye them blue so they appeared to maybe be SG at a cheap price - if you didn't ask specific questions. OTOH, it might be a good wheel, have you tried it? Definitely ring it first and find some blotters for it.

smt

 

[michiganbuck]

Chasing the perfect wheel can be an expensive waste of time for non-production jobs. Often changing the method or finding faults with the machine or set-up has more to do with making the part to spec.
It is not uncommon to need a mid-hardness 46, 60, and an 80 or 100 for a super finish or a near sharp inside corner.
Choosing name brand wheels only.

Stephan mentioned "too soft", some wheels are not hard enough to allow the pressure to penetrate the part before the hardness of the bond lets lose of the grits, and the first pass wastes your dress.

Often H through M are common hardness letters with H the softer and M the harder.
One wheel brand to another and the going harder or softer may not relate to the letter.

An L wheel from one name brand may act softer than an i wheel from another name brand. Each wheel manufacture has its own idea of what each letter means.

And the concentration /openness has much to do with how a wheel acts on a certain material. A harder, but more open-wheel can act like a softer wheel.

"GO softer" for harder material is said.. but often "go harder and more open" may be the better choice.