10EE carriage stop on eBay

[rke[pler]

Is this the state of 10EE accessories today? $200+ (and 8 days to go) for a carriage stop that's not even original?



Maybe I need to get back to work on those castings I had made several years ago...

 

[Mr_CNC_guy]

Maybe I need to get back to work on those castings I had made several years ago...

How about a follow rest casting? That will test your skill!

 

[Ultradog MN]

There is a bunch of EE parts on Bidspotter.
Auction is in NC. Will be interesting to watch and see what they go for.

 

[Chips Everywhere]

If anyone is serious about casting any attachments(steady, follow rest, micrometer stops, etc), I can generate the 3D models and 3D print the patterns. I would need an original attachment to take measurements from. I can generate drawings for machining, as well as models/drawings for the other components and an exploded parts diagram.

 

[rke[pler]

If anyone is serious about casting any attachments(steady, follow rest, micrometer stops, etc), I can generate the 3D models and 3D print the patterns. I would need an original attachment to take measurements from. I can generate drawings for machining, as well as models/drawings for the other components and an exploded parts diagram.

What do you use to scan the original part?

The castings I had made were from patterns I carved, one for the pre-modular indicator holder (the cast bit, not the clamshell) and for an improved version of the carriage stop (improved since the original is so often broken).

 

[Jimbojet]

Someone needs to modify a 3D printer to use wax, for directly printing lost-wax patterns.

 

[rke[pler]

Someone needs to modify a 3D printer to use wax, for directly printing lost-wax patterns.

A lot of folks doing 'lost plastic' (can't recall the plastic - PLA, maybe?) instead of wax. Going from printed item to cast pretty directly.

 

[Chips Everywhere]

What do you use to scan the original part?

The castings I had made were from patterns I carved, one for the pre-modular indicator holder (the cast bit, not the clamshell) and for an improved version of the carriage stop (improved since the original is so often broken).

3D scanner or I can do it the manual method with a mic, caliper, height gauge and a surface plate. In my experience, an inexpensive 3D printer can easily print within 0.015 "+/-, sometimes less. They are perfect for making simple to complex patterns.

For example, say you want to make a large bore steady rest. You can print the steady rest to scale, test fit it on your machine to check for clearance and overall fit before you even cut a single chip. Using the same 3D model, you can suppress the machined features and scale up the model to compensate for shrinking in casting. Once you are finished, you can print your pattern. The beauty of this is that it may only cost you about $10 in filament to print a steady rest pattern and the printer does most of the work.

 

[rke[pler]

ISTR "lost FOAM" (plastic) as an economical process? Not hard to do one-offs by hand.

Here's a guy doing it with PLA:

Easy lost PLA metal casting │ How to turn a 3d print into metal │ ASMR - YouTube

 

[BugRobotics]

I'll scan one and share the file if you send it over. I can also print one up using SLA or FDM.

 

[Chips Everywhere]

I'll scan one and share the file if you send it over. I can also print one up using SLA or FDM.

Are you using commercial or a hobby grade scanner? I have access to commercial scanners and they are great. But I wanted to get a hobby one for home, but all the ones I demo a year ago suck.

 

[TBJK]

Kelly Coffield does some really good lost foam casting.
Kelly Coffield - YouTube

 

[BugRobotics]

Are you using commercial or a hobby grade scanner? I have access to commercial scanners and they are great. But I wanted to get a hobby one for home, but all the ones I demo a year ago suck.

I use a professional structured light scanner. David SLS-2.

I was just offering to help. No worries if someone else can or wants to do it.

 

[Chips Everywhere]

I use a professional structured light scanner. David SLS-2.

I was just offering to help. No worries if someone else can or wants to do it.

I have access to nice scanners, but you have to have deep pockets to own one of those, and I don't want to end up in a you break it you buy it situation with them. So I only use them as necessary.

I'm more curious about owning my own, just haven't found any that produce decent models for in a 3-4k budget. What kind of resolution/precision do you get with yours?

 

[BugRobotics]

I have access to nice scanners, but you have to have deep pockets to own one of those, and I don't want to end up in a you break it you buy it situation with them. So I only use them as necessary.

I'm more curious about owning my own, just haven't found any that produce decent models for in a 3-4k budget. What kind of resolution/precision do you get with yours?

Resolution is plenty good at sub-thousandths. The real trick is controlling the model/scanner throughout the scanning process (assuming your scanning 360°). I use a rotary table for most small stuff to accurately divide the scans into manageable 10-15° chunks. Helps immensely to keep the scanner stationary and move the object in a controlled manner. You can define the amount of rotation in the software and get very clean results. This is not the case with the handheld units as they require registration marks and can introduce a lot of noise. Still can get great scans with the handholds and for a lot of stuff they are plenty good but the noise picked up can be a pain to get rid of.

I bet you could cobble together a David SL system for under 3k on eBay. Tricky part is gonna be getting a hold of their pre/post processing software. HP bought it up a number of years ago. Maybe could find a license on eBay as well as they are (or were) authenticated with a USB stick.

 

[Chips Everywhere]

Resolution is plenty good at sub-thousandths. The real trick is controlling the model/scanner throughout the scanning process (assuming your scanning 360°). I use a rotary table for most small stuff to accurately divide the scans into manageable 10-15° chunks. Helps immensely to keep the scanner stationary and move the object in a controlled manner. You can define the amount of rotation in the software and get very clean results. This is not the case with the handheld units as they require registration marks and can introduce a lot of noise. Still can get great scans with the handholds and for a lot of stuff they are plenty good but the noise picked up can be a pain to get rid of.

I bet you could cobble together a David SL system for under 3k on eBay. Tricky part is gonna be getting a hold of their pre/post processing software. HP bought it up a number of years ago. Maybe could find a license on eBay as well as they are (or were) authenticated with a USB stick.

I guess I will start doing some research on those units. Most of the components I scan are mounted on a rotary table and the scanner is fixed.

 

[TomBoctou]

Here's a guy doing it with PLA:

Easy lost PLA metal casting │ How to turn a 3d print into metal │ ASMR - YouTube

I never had any luck getting PLA to burn out cleanly, for small parts anyway. I switched to Polycast filament, which burns out just like wax. Maybe double the cost of PLA, but still not expensive.

 

[murphatthepoint]

Believe the carriage stop sold for $225.00 plus shipping
28 bids so I guess there is a market for non-original parts

Jim

 

[rke[pler]

So here's the casting I had made, found them when I was looking for the indicator bracket tooling (found 3 brackets made as well, didn't recollect that).

View attachment 345367

I still need to locate and ream the through hole, slot it and drill/tap/counterbore for the tensioning screw. Also need to make the bottom clamping plate but that should be a lot simpler in terms of locating the holes.

Any interest if I stick it up on eBay?
I like the look of a casting more than stock steel, but the steel may well be stronger than the cast.

 

[Toolmaker51]

Believe the carriage stop sold for $225.00 plus shipping
28 bids so I guess there is a market for non-original parts

Jim

The market for non-original parts are 10EE collectors (effectively decorating man-caves), because 10EE appears in title, regardless it's association with Monarch, let alone 10EE's. I can't think of a more easily shop-made lathe accessory than a clamp-on dead stop. A proper stop deserves a screw and micrometer dial.
I'll bet the ad text contained something along the line of 'infinitely adjustable' too.