What's new
What's new

10ee cross slide lube upgrade

rcn11thacr

Aluminum
Joined
Dec 5, 2019
Good Morning,
I've noticed recently that my saddle is not oiling (or is barely oiling), so i will be tearing into that to see what is going on. I have 3 additional items i want to address:

1. One of the compound bolts don't tighten, so i need to either buy new bolts or make those.
2. Monarch never prioritized oiling on the compound when they designed this machine. Call me a heretic but this is my machine and i want to modify it so it lasts longer.
3. Compound nut replacement.

Anyone have a source for replacement compound bolts. Last i heard Monarch charges a Benjamin for 2 bolts, which is just unreasonable to me.
Anyone have a source for replacement compound leadscrew nut?

Manually oiling the compound at each end feels like a band aid and a poor way of trying to properly the entire surface of the compound. There are gouges in the ways on my compound from previous owners that i will have to address and the leadscrew has way too much backlash. Anyone know what the proper angle is of the ways for the compound? I have not checked yet and will need to order a proper cutter to repair the ways. If anyone has done this repair and has a specific tool suggestion, or feeds/speeds for them, i am open to suggestions. After searching here, i have not found where anyone has posted their upgrade that was better than manually oiling. If they did, i missed it. I was thinking about installing push button cups in the top and above of the ways, so at least i can get oil directly above so it gravity feeds down to the ways. Something similar to the picture i've provided. Does anyone have a better solution than what i mention before i get started?

Lastly, i would prefer to not have to take the apron off when i do this work. To do this would mean i need to move a 30 inch 10ee (with the right side facing the wall), so i can get the lead screw, control rod, etc. out so i can keep the aprons weight from tearing up the rods while it is unsupported. Being a 100% disabled vet, this would mean me having to pay someone to move it twice. If there was already a known safe way to hold the apron in place so that it does not cause damage, I'd much rather do that. I have never removed the saddle before and as i understand it, i need to take off all of the above mentioned parts since the saddle is attached to the apron. If i am misunderstanding the process please let me know. Thanks.
 

Attachments

  • cup.png
    cup.png
    103 KB · Views: 5
I don't think adding those oilers is a bad option, but I wouldn't want the cup surface. They make flush ball oilers.
You can take the apron all the way to the right and support it with blocks while removing the carriage. I don't know about the compound bolts. I think I have seen after-market cross feed nuts.
 
I found this. There may be others out there.


 
Last edited:
Obviously you don't need to do anything with the carriage to remove the compound and top slide.

You don't need to move your lathe to remove either the saddle or apron. I have maybe 6" from the tailstock end of the bed to the wall and have had both off. You really should remove the both the saddle and apron so that you can clean and inspect everything. You'll be amazed at how much swarf has managed to find it's way into all of the nooks and crannies. Plus, the Bijur oiling system most likely has a problem somewhere.

You can support the apron with a 2x6 laid across to chip pan to remove the just the saddle. Or you can leave the saddle in place and remove the apron. To remove the apron, disconnect the leadscrew and feed rod from the gearbox and unbolt the right end bracket from the bed. Lower the apron onto the blocks using a few of the carriage-to-apron bolts. You should be able to just unplug the right ends of the leadscrew and feed-rod from the bracket, rotate the apron enough for them to clear the gearbox and slide them out. You can also move the apron, bracket and rods to/from the bench as a unit.

Here's how I supported the apron on my '43 round-dial:
IMG_2489.jpg
IMG_2490.jpg

Leadscrew and feed-rod inserted during reassembly:
IMG_2493.jpg

I did the same thing on a friend's square-dial.
 
To the op, I'd ask for some clarification. I could be me :D , but you you wrote a lot of info, and in some parts you said compound, and meant cross slide maybe, or not. . . for me its hard to tell. To simplify a little, maybe post one detail at a time.

As stated by others, yes you can support apron. And remove compound, cross slide, and carriage.

As originally built, carriage and cross slide are lubed by an oil pump inside of apron, that oil pump has a felt filter which can be be serviced while apron is still on machine. Mostly likely bijur metering valves contolling flow to all the passages. I'd recommend reading the thread for some insights:
Modifying Monarch's Problematic Oiling System

Besides oil pump and metering units for lube passages, just cleaning the crud from passages and getting them blown clear will go a long way.
 
For your 2 compound locking bolts. A project I intend is making something like tee slot nuts that you use on a milling machine table. Except the nuts will be curved to fit into the circle of cross slide, that compound will sit on. Then use 2 threaded studs, instead of bolts. With 2 nuts top side I can loosen and tighten to degree the compound.
 
What is the advantage of making nuts and using studs? You have a premier threading lathe, why not use it?
The bolts have a square end on bottom side that rides in the slot. That square is not very big and grabs a small portion of the cast iron of crosslide. With these machines being very old, sometimes the cast iron gets tore up from the small square head of bolt.

By making an arch tee slot nut, you could greatly increase the contact area up inside cross slide slot. Maybe 1" to 1.5" long. It would spread the stress to a greater area, and cause less damage long term. And better fitment than the bolts.

I don't have the cross slide in front of me, so I'm guessing the dimensions. . . But lets say the circle dimension in cross slide is 5". We could use a lathe or milling machine. But let's say a lathe, chuck up a piece of hollow round steel 5" or more that will be shaped like a tee nut on face . Part off a ring, that the face is like a tee nut. The entire ring can not fit into access, but hacksaw two pieces of the ring that can fit into access, guessing 1" to 1.5". Drill and tap threads into the center of the 2 new pieces, as like a regular tee nut.

There's your two new tee nuts, nicely arched to fit into the circle.
 
The T-bolts on my 10EE's have an arched head, as you describe. The limit on the length is one advantage of the t-nuts, but I don't see a lot of wear happening in that part, unless you are moving the compound multiple times a day.

If I was making T-bolts with an arc I would use the mill, but if done on the lathe, I would cut and thread the stems (leaving a large head), then bolt them to a faceplate slot at the right diameter to match the compound circle, and cut both sides of the heads. i.e. use a T-nut in the slot. You could do several at once, depending on how many radial slots you had on the faceplate.
 








 
Back
Top