10EE Headstock Lubrication

[Torquin]

I purchased a 10EE last year and just got it into the shop so I can start going through it. Had to sell my 12CK so I would have room for the 10EE. Anyway, I believe, from the SN on the bed, EE42451, that it is a 1956 model. The information plate is MIA on this lathe. It has been changed over to some kind of variable speed drive system that I have not yet identified. The drawer under the bed is practically empty at this point, and there are two extra electrical boxes on the back along with a control box with switches and a rheostat on the front. I will be asking questions about this lathe if I cannot find the answers in the stickies.
My first questions are about the lubrication in the head stock. I see two oil level windows on it, one one the left and one on the right. The one on the left has no oil in it, suggesting I need to add oil.
1. Do these head stocks have two separate oiling areas in them?
2. What kind of modern-day oil should be used in either of the head stock reservoirs?

Another question, about the belt drive. I see that it has one idler for the drive belt, on the right side, and on mine it is slid in as far as possible. The belt is reasonably tight, but could be tighter. Upon opening the covers, I found that someone had wrapped several layers of duct tape on the idler puller, perhaps to make it a little larger to make the belt tighter, but I do not know. The tape was coming off the pulley and making a lot of noise as it flapped around in there so I removed all of the tape from the pulley. Is this a situation where I should get a new belt, of is there anything else I should look into before that?

Thanks,
Chris

 

[rke[pler]

There should be 3 oil sights on the headstock, the outer 2 are for the front and rear bearings and the center oils the headstock gears via splash. All should take something like a Mobil DTE 24 oil (Vactra Light is the original spec). I'd advise changing the oils and cleaning the sights so you have a clear view of everything going forward.

There should be 2 idlers. Here's a pic of my 1956:

If you're missing the left one it might be fairly easily replaced, the right one has more structure supporting it.

 

[Torquin]

I suppose I am missing the brackets and all. See pics.
So, do I have to fill the end reservoirs by those little tiny holes on each end?








Thanks,
Chris

 

[Torquin]

What oil is used in the motor gear box? It seems like that needs oil also. I want to get to using this lathe but need to get through everything to make sure it is maintained properly.
Come to think of it, can you list all of the modern oils to be used in the various places on this lathe? Perhaps that would deserve a sticky.

Thanks,
Chris

 

[Don's Engine]

The gear box is supposed to take DTE 32 Med/Heavy. Mine is so worn that I just use 75/90 gear oil. The threading gear box also uses DTE32 Med/Heavy. The three top chambers use DTE24 light. You cant see the middle chamber due to that speed control sitting in front of it. Yes you fill the end bearings through the little plug holes and the middle section through the top plug. Ide do as rke said and get those filler windows out and cleaned up. You definitely want that spindle section, all three points properly filled. Vactra 2 for the apron and your good. Don

 

[rke[pler]

I suppose I am missing the brackets and all. See pics.

Yup. Here's mine:

So, do I have to fill the end reservoirs by those little tiny holes on each end?

Yes, it's about 25-30 squirts from one of my oil cans so not too bad. The central sump may be filled from the knob in the center of the top, sight glass is below the added control box in your first image.

The gear boxes take Mobil Vactra Heavy Medium (gear box below the headstock and the reduction gearbox on the motor output). The apron sump should have Vactra #2 way oil, I also use it for the tailstock quill and way sump. It'd be a good idea to drop the apron sump and pull the oil pump in it for new filter felt and a general checkup, it lubricates a lot of stuff.

 

[rke[pler]

The gear box is supposed to take DTE 32 Med/Heavy. Mine is so worn that I just use 75/90 gear oil. The threading gear box also uses DTE32 Med/Heavy. The three top chambers use DTE24 light. You cant see the middle chamber due to that speed control sitting in front of it. Yes you fill the end bearings through the little plug holes and the middle section through the top plug. Ide do as rke said and get those filler windows out and cleaned up. You definitely want that spindle section, all three points properly filled. Vactra 2 for the apron and your good. Don

If you're really using 75/90 gear oil you've got something very heavy in there. Mobil DTE Medium is ISO 46, a 75/90 gear oil would be something near an ISO 100. ( http://www.golftechs.us/Reference/viscross.pdf ) If it's not being run long enough to get really warm you might want to go to a lighter grade oil.

 

[rke[pler]

I forgot to mention - you're missing the end gear cover as well. Might want to get a replacement, I recall someone selling parts of a '57 that would likely have that as well as the missing idler.

Take some more pictures so we can see the drive and other features.

 

[Don's Engine]

When I tore the gear box down, the gears were seriously worn. had to hand massage them back and debur them with a file by hand. I used all sealed bearings when I put it back together, so the only real need for oil is when its in back gear, and again, I've got serious wear so the heavier oil keeps it quiet. I've tried both, and the gear oil is better in this ap. In direct drive its locked through, so there's no gear engagement issue. And here in Florida, the oils always warmed up... yechhhh... Don

 

[Torquin]

Here are a few more pics.







I have not yet gotten to opening the box on the back where the main electrical seems to be. This is a slow process, as I get time.
Amazon had the DTE24. I will be here tomorrow. I believe I already have the Vactra #2, as I use it for the BP.

Thanks,
Chris

 

[beckerkumm]

Are your 10EE pulleys proprietary with the wider 1/2" or so distance between the belts ? My CVA is like that and I am looking to replace with 10EE ones but want to be sure the distance between is the same or I need both top and bottom. DAve

 

[Torquin]

I will get more pics after work. Let me know if you want more than what you have already mentioned, about the motor and pulleys.

Thanks,
Chris

 

[Torquin]

Here are the requested pics. I have a single belt pulley on the motor.









Thanks,
Chris

 

[Torquin]

Motor mounts:

View attachment 348840

 

[Torquin]

Is this the cover I need? I don't know if this part changed over the years.
Monarch 10EE Lathe EE-2858 Cover Plate & Gasket | eBay

Thanks,
Chris

 

[rke[pler]

Is this the cover I need? I don't know if this part changed over the years.
Monarch 10EE Lathe EE-2858 Cover Plate & Gasket | eBay

Thanks,
Chris

Yes. If you got it you got it as a steal.

 

[Torquin]

Yeah, I looked at my lathe, and compared to the pics, and snagged it.

Thanks,
Chris

 

[Torquin]

For those asking about the control unit. It is a Reliance Min Pak VS drive. See pics below. I have found I can run it on single phase 220, and changed the plug to do so. Much more convenient.

Thanks,
Chris

 

[Torquin]

Well, so far I have realized that all of the controls were originally on the box at the back of the machine, and someone made the "remote" control box on the front of the machine. Makes sense, since one wants convenient access to the controls. It has a jog feature that does not work. I have not looked into that yet.
I have just added a digital tachometer to it. I am using the mounting holes for the index pin safety switch since that was eliminated by the VS drive.
Another question, should the feed screw still turn when in threading mode? With this lathe, when I move the three levers and the dial to threading, the feed screw still turns, in addition to the lead screw. I find that odd.
Still learning the controls on this unit. Much different from my 14.

Thanks,
Chris

 

[Torquin]

So, I got the cover for the gear box under the spindle shaft, but I am wondering, how do those gears get lubricated? I saw no lube on those gears before I put the cover on, and so I put some oil on them, but that won't last. Is there supposed to be an auto oiler from the headstock lubing those gears?

Thanks,
Chris