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10EE mounts

Dukeofsavoy89

Plastic
Joined
Mar 25, 2020
I am in the process of purchasing a Square dial 10EE and I was trying to figure out what kind of leveling mounts others have on their's?
I have been contemplating using these leveling caster mounts, with the hope that I would be more easily be able to move the beast around my shop if needed.
Leveling Casters

Any ideas or helpful info would be greatly appreciated.
Erik
 
This is how I did it.
Works great. I just run it up to height and move it with a pallet jack. Leveling back in place only takes a couple minutes.
 
Erik, those casters look great - but - while the idea of moving it is attractive, because I can use my pallet jack and 'just' move it into position solo (despite it really being a two man job), I think Don's rubber isolated leveling feet are a better solution - at least for me.

One thing to be VERY careful of is how top heavy these Monarch lathes are (and all lathes, really). Not only would it spoil your day if it rolled onto you, but lathes have been junked after a rollover.

Anyway, rubber isolated feet would be a better alternative for me because if I need to move it, I always have a pallet jack (and a fork lift) available. Dunno about your circumstances. That, and it's not the kind of thing I want to move one inch further than needs be. It really is heavy.

Now, what I did recently mount on wheels is my DoALL band saw.
640x640-Do-All on wheels2.jpg
I opted for iron wheels instead of poly. Mistake? Dunno. Work well enough. Only time I'll ever move it is if I need to cut something which won't fit into where I have the machine in which case I can roll it out. Especially as it's not very heavy compared to a Monarch.
 
I used some swivel leveling feet from MC Master and some long grade 5 bolts from Fastenal. I think I had about $40-50 for the set of three. It high enough to move around with the pallet jack or forklift. Works great!
 
No pictures, it didn't happen! Seriously, model/part numbers would be helpful for him (plus me, and everybody else, meaning the next guy). This may help . . .
. . . I selected 1/2"-13, the search can be refined by weight, like 1000lbs, 2000lbs, and more. A basic 10EE is ~3500 pounds, and uses three feet so 1000 lb mounts won't cut it. Basically, needs something more heavy duty. Use your judgement because this is an area (foundation) where being conservative trumps being a cheapskate, in my humble opinion.

These are what floated my boat.
And if you're feeling cheap and willing to take risks, these are certainly cheap enough to maybe be worth a gamble. I wouldn't personally, but I'm perhaps feeling more flush than others. Like I said, use your judgement.
And below, Daryl mentions Royal, which are perhaps the ones on this list of mounts from MSC, one of my favored suppliers alongside McMaster

MSC leveling mounts
 
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I don't have a link, but the common but expensive Royal leveling feet is what I have and very pleased with them. You have to make a special fitting for the RH end if you have a WIAD, as the stud on the mount will foul the sliding drawer. I have the mounts sitting on paving stones to get it high enough so that a pallet jack can be used. I got some of those leveling casters for my T&C grinder, I found that even though the grinder was not really that heavy, screwing the mount up and down was difficult under weight. I can only imagine how it would be under the Monarch.
 
Great video Don, what size thread did you use? I only recall a reference to 20tpi, but maybe I missed it.
Yeah the main benefit I was think over stock mounts would be being able to roll it if needed. I was planning on doing the mcmaster ones if I go thus route.
 
Swivle castors are a bad idea for any top heavy machine. Whenever wheels are not directly under their mount they can turn and thereby shorten the stance between the wheels making it easier for the machine to tip over. A 10ee is a very stout machine so does not have to be perfectly level to do precision work. Just set it on a couple of pieces of 4"x6" pressure treated wood. Then, when you want to move it, just slide a pallet jack under it, move the 4x6 and reposition in 2 minutes.
 
IMO, the best thing to do with any caster set-up is to weld offset extensions together that can bolt under the machine so the casters are not directly under the machine and it's only raised maybe 1-2".

We've also done the thing of keeping machines on 4x4's and keeping a pallet jack around, but IMO the best decision we made was "committing" to a floor plan and putting everything on the floor like it was meant to be. I say "committing" because eventually something has to move, but if you plan ahead so work areas overlap and you have room to work around machines, you spend less time moving machines around and more time working. There's always those unforeseen times where you need an extra inch, or it's just time to sell a machine and bring in something new, but honestly if you keep some wood blocks, jacks, and pinch bars around, it's not THAT MUCH work to move machinery. If anything, it makes you think twice about where you plan to erect a machine and if it's really going to help moving it.
 
The 10EE is fairly sensitive to level, i.e. try and keep it within ⅛” front to back. The oil sight glasses for the headstock bearings will always show low if you don’t do this. The 4x4 at each end works, but the machine has a 3-point mount, with a single hole for a leveler.
 
I would not call 1/8" sensitive. I would say if 1/8" is the number then I would consider it fairly insensitive. A small less ridged lathe I would consider sensitive and try to get it with in a few thousands.
 
I have two shops. The one at my winter vacation home is TINY - one car garage. i bolted 4x4s to the three mount points so i can use a pallet jack to quickly move it.

Did the whole shop this way. Everything moves out when the car is gone and must all be tucked back in to have the car in a garage. So, the car only goes inside when we leave for back north.
 
I would not call 1/8" sensitive. I would say if 1/8" is the number then I would consider it fairly insensitive. A small less ridged lathe I would consider sensitive and try to get it with in a few thousands.
The point is to make the effort to level it. A common opinion is that it does not need levelling.
 








 
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