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1949 Manufacturing Lathe Followed me Home today

Thanks for posting about your"New" lathe. I'm enjoy learning about the earlier style EE. In the photo showing the brushes, is the wire lever with the loop, for setting tension on the brushes?
Keep up the good work.

Yes, it has numbered positions, 3 being highest.

I don't know which setting to use, or rather, what method to use to select a setting, I hope others chime in. The brushes were set on 3 mostly, but I tried 2 and it seems to hold the brushes down quite well. I would think lower is better in terms of brush wear.
Making progress. Here are some current pictures of the lathe. The lathe has had the green paint scraped off (carbide scraper) and it has been degreased. All the removed components have been rebuilt and repainted, new bearings, etc. Next step is to rebuild the headstock using a late 60's spindle with splines for the fwd/rev gears and rear angular contact bearings, and to install the rest of the headstock parts for fwd/rev gears, including the shifter, packing gland, etc. It turns out that mfg. lathe headstocks are identical to toolroom lathe headstocks, so they are already machined to accept the threading parts. The hardest job was removing the typical Monarch two-pin-hole plug used on the mfg. lathe (where the gland nut and shift rod go). I made a two pin wrench, but broke three hardened 3/16" dowels trying to get the plug out without having it budge. Heat did not help. I changed tactics and ended up drilling a 13/32" hole through the plug and used an easy out.

Next I will sand and paint the lathe. The same late 60's donor machine also provided a threading gearbox, so that will be installed, half nuts will be installed in the original apron, and the rebuilt turret will be installed. It turns out that Monarch designed the power turret to go on a lathe with or without a leadscrew, and Scott@Monarch provided a drawing that shows how to modify the rear turret cover (on the back of the turret apron) if you are adding a leadscrew to a lathe not so-equipped. Simple matter of drilling a pair of inch and a quarter holes so that the leadscrew can pass through, but the drawing gives the measurements, no need for trial and error.





I have a couple of puzzles related to this lathe.

First, the gearbox pulley is aluminum but it has steel dowels through it, as shown. 4 close to the center and 6 farther out. What is the purpose of the dowels? Remember this is a 1949 machine.


Second, the oil overflow line from the headstock has a tall loop above the oil passage. Why? Never seen another one made like this one. My thought is that it would not drain until the level of oil inside the headstock went up above the top of the loop, then it would continue to siphon until the level was back down where it should be. Very strange. Maybe mfg. lathes run with a higher oil level since there is no fwd/rev gearing? When I got the machine the oil level was way above the bottom sight glass.

I've been making progress on this machine. So here is a quick summary of where I am at. The machine has been disassembled down to the bed, components have been rebuilt (new bearings, paint, repairs as needed), the machine has been repainted. When I was rebuilding the turret, I found a hint in one of the drawings that the turret was compatible with a machine with a leadscrew (it had two part numbers for the cover on the rear of the turret apron that protects the feed rod worm and pinion, one for a lathe with leadscrew, one for a lathe without). So I contacted Scott at Monarch. Scott pulled the drawings for the part, and also made the comment that in his 20+ years of working at Monarch this was the first power turret 10EE he had run across. It turns out that the rear cover for a machine with a leadscrew is identical to one for a machine without, except for two holes bored to allow the leadscrew to pass through. The print gave the dimensions and location of the hole.

OK, great. So I decided to add threading to the machine. I already had some of the parts, the main thing missing being a threading gearbox. With the turret slid all the way to the end of the bed, there is room to thread up to 10-12", which covers 99% of the threading I have done in the last 30 years, and since this machine has both a 2-spd gearbox and a DC motor, it has the low speed capability I have always wanted for threading. So for me the decision makes sense.

So here is what that decision entailed:

1. replace the spindle with one that has splines for the threading reverse gears.
2. install the reverse gears, shift fork, dog gears, idler gears, shafts, bearings, end cover, seal etc. in the headstock.
3. install oil lines in the headstock for the reverse gear bushings.
4. install the fwd/rev/feed shift knob, dial, packing gland, packing, and interlock on the doghouse
5. replace the mfg. gearbox with a threading gearbox.
6. install a leadscrew and bearings.
7. install a threading dial
8. install a chasing stop in the crossfeed dial
9. install half nuts and engagement lever & housing on the apron
10. modify the cover on the turret apron to allow the leadscrew to pass through

The mfg. headstock was already fully machined for the addition of the threading gears and shafts. The spindle I acquired came from a late 60's machine and had what appeared to be nearly new spindle bearings, which was good because the bearings on the mfg. lathe were quite rough. The bearings cleaned up quite well in the ultrasonic cleaner. The rear bearings were the later angular contact variety, and a new cover was included, so the spindle installation went well. New oil lines were fabricated from 3/16" copper line. I had the remaining headstock parts from last year's 59 lathe headstock replacement project, and the shifter installed with a perfect sliding fit, with a good fit between the rack gear and the splines of the shift rod . It is absolutely amazing that Monarch machined all those parts with the precision that would allow me to transfer parts from another lathe without any hitch, 70 years after the machine left the factory.

The only step that entailed some machining was the installation of the fwd/rev/feed shift rod. The hole for the rod was present on the machine, filled with a 2-hole plug and 70 yr. old sealant that absolutely refused to budge. I made a 2-hole spanner, but the pins kept shearing off (hardened dowel pins) when I applied a lot of torque. I ended up drilling a hole in the plug and used an ez-out with a ½" ratchet. Then I found that the bore of the shift rod hole had not been reamed for the shift rod, and the bushing in the dog house had also not been reamed, so most likely those two operations were part of the 10EE assembly line that included the install of the reverse gears, and got skipped on mfg. lathes. Later on, when I installed the half nuts in the apron, I found a similar issue: the bore in the apron for the shaft that actuates the half nuts had not been reamed (or honed), so that operation also got skipped on mfg. lathes. But other than that I found no differences.

To complete the work on the headstock, I installed a lever-operated collet closer on the spindle, since the lathe had one originally. The closer came on the 59 lathe, but I want to use 2J collets on that machine.

Installing the collet closer entailed two machining operations: the spindle needed to be drilled for the setscrews that lock the collet closer in position, and the bracket for the lever needed to be repositioned on the upper headstock cover, so that it would clear the knob that attaches the middle headstock cover. Evidently there was a design change at some point, the original 49 collet closer bracket had a 1 degree tilt and was wider than the later bracket. The later bracket was installed with a 15 degree tilt, and it is a good work height for the lever. That work is described in this thread: 10EE Lever Collet Closer

I am currently rebuilding the threading gearbox, but I will cover that in another post. Here are some photos of the lathe:

New oil lines, just prior to spindle install:



Lever-operated collet closer:

Gearbox apart:

New paint:
Looking damn good. It gives me motivation to see others making progress. I wish I could be making progress on my 1939 10EE. Work has been a killer, short handed like no tomorrow. Then there is the life stuff that happens. Pulling my transmission from one of my vehicles.
Cal asked if I could provide details for the gearbox assembly, so I will try and do so.

Getting the shafts and bearings out is not so hard and is well documented in this thread:

10EE Square dial threading gearbox rebuild

After I had my gearbox apart, I checked the bearings and the majority of them were rough, probably because of the water intrusion. So I decided to replace all the gaskets, seals, felts and bearings, and ordered most of the parts from Monarch. Monarch's prices were reasonable ($550 for everything I bought), but there were a few bearings I bought on Ebay due to cost, so add another $85, amd there were (4) bearings I could not locate and did not want to pay Monarch for (ND C487505V sheet 142). There are three seals required, because three of the shafts are below the oil level. The felt goes between the end gearing housing and the reverse gear shaft that comes out of the headstock.

(2) 532-1 Timken 471442, .5000 x .999 x .250
(1) 548-2 Garlock 288

Gearbox Bearings:
quantity, Monarch part number, old Monarch part number, old part in gearbox, parts sheet where shown
(11) 14659 662-9 Fafnir 204K C1 sheet 133 & 134
(1) 14658 662-8 ND3303 sheet 134
(1) 14732 669-22 ND C88505 sheet 133
(1) 14655 662-4 SKF 6301 sheet 134

end gearing bearings:
(2) 14730 669-18 ND 88503 sheet 142
(4) EE2407 ND C487505V sheet 142

Feed rod and leadscrew bearings:
(4) 17104 667-1-DB ND 30204 sheets 136 & 137

(1) 71042 gasket for back cover
(1) EE3513 gasket for top gear train cover, sheet 142
(1) EE3685 gasket for side cover
(1) EE3511 Cork gasket for thread dial

(1) EE2861

Lock Washer:
(1) 940-5 for the feed pulley nut, sheet 133
Photos of the gearbox rebuild will get added as I do it, but here are the first few:

First step, clean and paint.
Second, reassemble the cone. Note that there are two thin gaps: between gears 6&7 and 8&9. The rest of the gears are symmetric, doesn't matter which side goes where. The thin gaps are because gears 7&8 are wider than the rest. I checked this three ways: first by measuring the gaps between the notches on the flat plate that indexes the gear selector. Second by measuring the center distances btw. gears. Third by installing the gears on the shaft and matching position against the gear that slides and engages the cone.


Next assemble the bearing on the sliding gear. Not shown. Then assemble the sliding gear on the large shaft with the cutout, but leave it loose, so you can insert the cone:

Next install the bearings for the cone from the ends. Don't forget the spacers. They are light press fits, only very light tapping is needed:


Then install the end plates, with setscrews on the right side plate, and a double setscrew from the bottom on the left end plate. I found that scribing a line on the face of the end plate helped to align the setscrew hole, but if it is not aligned, just drill a new hole for the setscrew to lock in.

The outer setscrew is ¼-20, the inner is 10-24. You can also see the two holes for the cap screws that secure the end gearing enclosure.


Then install the two small gears and shafts and the oil seal. If you click on the picture you can see the other two holes that get oil seals.

They work great. I have moved probably 40 machines (once bought a San Jose high school metal shop) using HF ratchet straps. The only purpose of that small strap is to hold the door panel in place.

The photo tells a different story about that strap. It is securing the machine to the back end of the pallet jack.
Looking damn good. It gives me motivation to see others making progress. I wish I could be making progress on my 1939 10EE. Work has been a killer, short handed like no tomorrow. Then there is the life stuff that happens. Pulling my transmission from one of my vehicles.

I hear you. I worked 60-80 hour jobs in Silicon Valley for the last 20 years of my career, retired in 2013, and even with 8 years I have yet to catch up on the deferred projects from that time. Maybe I never will, but I am sure having a good time trying.
I'm glad that lathe went to a good home. I looked at it long and hard, but as cheap as it was I still couldn't justify hauling it home for the few parts I wanted to rob.

The seller said that he had some interest in the machine, but he had it listed for several weeks before I bought it. I was surprised it did not sell earlier.
I am surprised too, under all the dirt it actually looked pretty good. I didn't have the heart to steal parts off of it or worse, part it out. It's in a much better place, Dave!

Nothing beats a good followed me home story. Most recently, as if I needed another lathe, this Wade 8A.Wade 8A hirez.jpg
Yes. Yes. Yes. And yes it is! The work of a very good friend. When I learned he had decided to list it for sale, I couldn't bear the thought of all his work just going to someone who had no clue of the level of effort involved. This pup was stripped all the way down and lovingly put back together by a genuine expert machinist. Believe me when I say this thing is right in every possible sense of the word. Possibly best in the world. Not kidding. Not exaggerating. Simply flawless. And the tick-tick-tick of the new leather flat belt, stabled together, is simply mesmerizing to hear. Still at his place as I've been busy but once it's at my shop I'll share additional photos for the curious. Like I said, I need another lathe like I need a hole in my head but it would have been genuinely irresponsible of me to let this one escape the family.