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36 tooth hss slitting saw speeds and feeds 1040 steel. Help please
- Thread starter Bdubb047
- Start date
- Replies 23
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Vancbiker
Diamond
- Joined
- Jan 5, 2014
- Location
- Vancouver, WA. USA
Nobody can help you unless you say the diameter of the saw.
What diameter saw?
What width?
What depth of cut?
How much runout?
What machine?
What cutter style?
With out those we are just guessing
Here is my best help:
www.harveyperformance.com
What width?
What depth of cut?
How much runout?
What machine?
What cutter style?
With out those we are just guessing
Here is my best help:
The Geometries and Purposes of a Slitting Saw - In The Loupe
When a machinist needs to cut material significantly deeper than wide, a Slitting Saw is an ideal choice to get the job done. These are unique due to
www.harveyperformance.com
Conrad Hoffman
Titanium
- Joined
- May 10, 2009
- Location
- Canandaigua, NY, USA
Common problem because people don't calculate the SFPM, don't appreciate the diameter of the saw and burn up the teeth. Let's assume the saw is 2" diameter. HSS in 1040 you might want, I dunno, 55-180 SFPM? Start at about 100 RPM and go from there. Also make sure the saw arbor is good and it's cutting with most of the teeth.
4" saw blade, 1/8 thick, on a haas vf3. I have to split a part down to create a pinch point. So the cut is about 1" deep when it clears
What diameter saw?
What width?
What depth of cut?
How much runout?
What machine?
What cutter style?
With out those we are just guessing
Here is my best help:
The Geometries and Purposes of a Slitting Saw - In The Loupe
When a machinist needs to cut material significantly deeper than wide, a Slitting Saw is an ideal choice to get the job done. These are unique due to
Conrad Hoffman
Titanium
- Joined
- May 10, 2009
- Location
- Canandaigua, NY, USA
OK, 4" so start at 50 RPM!
guythatbrews
Stainless
- Joined
- Dec 14, 2017
- Location
- MO, USA
50 rpm and 1.0 IPM
dandrummerman21
Stainless
- Joined
- Feb 5, 2008
- Location
- MI, USA
Does your saw and arbor have a key?
If not, it should.
What is getting jammed? the tool on the arbor, or the spindle?
Edit: wonder if your machine has the balls for 50 or 100rpm.
Double edit: I'd be extra careful running the blade backwards (m4) due to it wanting to push the nut counterclockwise. Again, with that, a key would help.
Those guys who run saw blades with no key in the arbor make me sick. IDK how anyone gets those saws to not want to spin.
If not, it should.
What is getting jammed? the tool on the arbor, or the spindle?
Edit: wonder if your machine has the balls for 50 or 100rpm.
Double edit: I'd be extra careful running the blade backwards (m4) due to it wanting to push the nut counterclockwise. Again, with that, a key would help.
Those guys who run saw blades with no key in the arbor make me sick. IDK how anyone gets those saws to not want to spin.
From a SFM perspective that makes sense but if he is saying it's jamming (stalling?) it may not have the torque at 50RPM to use that cutter. Do HAAS mills have high/low gear/windings? Their website shows an override with M41/M42 but also states it should switch automatically. Maybe verify that you are in fact in low.
guythatbrews
Stainless
- Joined
- Dec 14, 2017
- Location
- MO, USA
You may have to make multiple passes.
Conrad Hoffman
Titanium
- Joined
- May 10, 2009
- Location
- Canandaigua, NY, USA
I've had better luck spinning the blades forward! Seriously, what does "backwards" mean?
Also, no matter how you feed or whatever else you do, if the SFPM is too high the cutting edges of the teeth will be wrecked in short order.
An eighth inch thick blade might be beyond that machine at 4" diameter.
Also, no matter how you feed or whatever else you do, if the SFPM is too high the cutting edges of the teeth will be wrecked in short order.
An eighth inch thick blade might be beyond that machine at 4" diameter.
It's keyed, I have the blade flipped backwards and running m04 on a haas vf3. I don't think it has the nuts to go this slow... it isn't overloading my spindle yet but looks like it's struggling. Before it would fault out and hasn't yet. Would running 100 rpm at F.7572 work better I wonder? I'd just be doubling my current feed/speeds
I flipped the blade and run m04 due to how I have to hold the part. M03 pulls the part away from the backstop while m04 pushes it into it and reduces the chatter
dandrummerman21
Stainless
- Joined
- Feb 5, 2008
- Location
- MI, USA
You'd be better off doing 2 or 3 different radial depth passes at 100rpm, somewhere around 4 or 5 inches per minute.
100rpm is even too fast but you might not have a choice.
100rpm at 5ipm is like .0013 per tooth which is about right but potentially asking a lot from your spindle. 1ipm is wayy too low. you want to make a chip, not rub.
Fewer teeth is also advised for going deeper into slots when you're underpowered.
100rpm is even too fast but you might not have a choice.
100rpm at 5ipm is like .0013 per tooth which is about right but potentially asking a lot from your spindle. 1ipm is wayy too low. you want to make a chip, not rub.
Fewer teeth is also advised for going deeper into slots when you're underpowered.
I would not hold that part like that. Looks like a very flimsy setup using a vise like that. You really can't have your part move at all for this.
A fixture or atleast much better supporting steel soft jaws and that cutter in a heavier machine will walk right through that part.
This is a situation where the ancient old manual horizontal mill (or almost anything else really) will walk all over a new Haas.
A fixture or atleast much better supporting steel soft jaws and that cutter in a heavier machine will walk right through that part.
This is a situation where the ancient old manual horizontal mill (or almost anything else really) will walk all over a new Haas.
It's hard to see but I have it dowel pinned in the back jaw and the front jaw has a lip that holds the part against the back all the way to the head. Still not the best set up, but only way I can get this part out. Only have 160 of them to make
garyhlucas
Stainless
- Joined
- Oct 17, 2013
- Location
- New Jersey
Chipping packing in the gullets on a saw are a big problem, especially if it is fine tooth and you have each tooth scraping off a long chip. Cold saws which are very stiff machines cut everthing with blades that are way coarser than you would think. A coarser blade may work a lot better. Your machine will need les torque with less teeth in the cut.
