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A 10EE Has Arrived

evanthayer

Aluminum
Joined
Jun 13, 2018
Hello All,

Picked up a 10EE from Sep 1956, serial no. #41731. I didn't know much about it when I purchased it somewhat sight-unseen. I just got it into the shop and am starting to go through it to find out what I've got and what my plans will be. The unit has been sitting in a machine shop but has not been under power for 30+ years! Unit was built and is labeled as a 480V unit; not sure what has been done to it since. It is a WIAD unit and it appears to be complete except for the B&S coolant pump which is missing as I believe is customary.

First question is power supply. I can easily install a step-up transformer to make 480V off of my 120/208 3PH service. I can also dig in and rewire it to take 240 single phase if that is possible and recommended, especially since the coolant pump is missing which I understand is the only component that uses L1, L2, and L3. I know there are many threads on this bbs that will walk me through that.

Any over all thoughts on the machine and my plans are appreciated!

Evan


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evanthayer

Aluminum
Joined
Jun 13, 2018
hey Steve I was monkeying with them because some were upside down :). let me know if it still isn't working.
 

evanthayer

Aluminum
Joined
Jun 13, 2018
hey Steve - the machine is equipped with the dovetail on the back of the cross-slide as you point out. I didn't realize that was notable until you pointed it out. A little googling around and I understand that this option came with a back mounted square tool post? I don't have any post or tooling but I do apparently have the dovetail! Always nice to have some unobtanium even if it is unusable.
 

thermite

Diamond
Joined
Sep 21, 2011
Location
Sol, Terra
hey Steve - the machine is equipped with the dovetail on the back of the cross-slide as you point out. I didn't realize that was notable until you pointed it out. A little googling around and I understand that this option came with a back mounted square tool post? I don't have any post or tooling but I do apparently have the dovetail! Always nice to have some unobtanium even if it is unusable.

LOL! Nothing "unusable" about it but time and effort.

If/as/when you have or acquire a milling machine... Or send a drawing off to (s)he who has such... and make/have made what you want.

:)

By all means reconfigure to 2XX.

It is single-phase, regardless, and the "transformer(s)" needed already built-in.

As covered in the instructions and the PM threads, there are adjustment to make for the Thyratron tube filament supply.

Have a look at the Scissio solid-state drop in replacements, too.
 

ezduzit

Hot Rolled
Joined
Jun 27, 2013
Location
United States
Monarch will email you instructions for converting a 460-volt machine to 230-volts. They also can provide the heater element and have some used transformers for the conversion, which is simple enough.
 

rimcanyon

Diamond
Joined
Sep 28, 2002
Location
Salinas, CA USA

The oil streak on the left side of your machine means that the oil seal above it is leaking. The gearbox has two separate oil compartments, and the sight glass only shows the level in the right compartment, so that seal is important. The oil in the left compartment lubricates the gear train including the feed drive and the threading drive from the gearbox. When you add oil to the gearbox, it first goes into the left compartment, and the level is quite a bit above that seal. Then as you add more oil, it flows over a weir into the right compartment. Normally the oil level in the left compartment is higher than in the right.
 

evanthayer

Aluminum
Joined
Jun 13, 2018
thanks for the tip - i'm imagining that it will need a complete flush and new seals at all site glasses. i think it's been sitting for 30 years! luckily every problem i could conceivably had has already been solved by someone on this forum in the last 20 years...
 

thermite

Diamond
Joined
Sep 21, 2011
Location
Sol, Terra
thanks for the tip - i'm imagining that it will need a complete flush and new seals at all site glasses. i think it's been sitting for 30 years! luckily every problem i could conceivably had has already been solved by someone on this forum in the last 20 years...

Only two of the "sight" glasses are crucial.

Those obscured so you cannot easily see if the EXPENSIVE spindle bearings have proper lube. 'Coz it is known to leak some, sitting OR in-use.

Monarch have new, rugged, ones in - AFAIK - a "Lexan" polycarbonate. Original window-glass ones can be very much more fragile - easily broken once removed for cleaning.

Some among us have ordered expensive mineral-glass or "hardlex" coated borosilicate glass WATCH crystals.

Quick and dirty whilst you get your longer-term choices lined-up is to grab a couple of those often three-for-cheap Harbour Freight coloured anodized half-vast mini-maglight AAA cell knock-offs. File a coupla notches, pop the lexan lense. The alleged-flashlight's LED's don't NEED it, they still work. such as they do ... or do not.

Two "O" rings out of a box assortment and that plastic lense fits right in ...so you can 'at least" protect those critical bearings. "O" rings because the sight glass is ALSO the drain & flush point for the spindle bearings, and that is easier to open and close than cork gaskets.

All-else has pipes and pipe-plug drains.

All other lube points on the 10EE are a great deal lesser risk, as well. Wotever accumulated damage has already been done, ain't getting much worse in a few weeks of messing around, and is usually very "survivable".

Spindle bearings are uncommonly durable, but still.

I did say "expensive"?

Make their care and preservation a high priority.
Because it IS.
 
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evanthayer

Aluminum
Joined
Jun 13, 2018
Thanks for the advice. I live in fear of hurting old gear boxes after a multi-year battle with my first lathe when i was only slightly less naive, a 1952 SB 9A.

I like the sound of watch crystals for the glass. Please tell me more...
 

thermite

Diamond
Joined
Sep 21, 2011
Location
Sol, Terra
Thanks for the advice. I live in fear of hurting old gear boxes after a multi-year battle with my first lathe when i was only slightly less naive, a 1952 SB 9A.

I like the sound of watch crystals for the glass. Please tell me more...

Last had watchmakers on-staff 1984, but the supply houses that still carry such goods are mostly in metro New York shiddy. Google, etc. with metric diameters if you want to splurge, but I wouldn't.

PLENTY of stuff - tooling and workholding - as will demand a ration of spend.

I can't see the expense, even for a 10EE, as the OEM ones seldom get an impact that would break even the "soda glass" originals, and polycarbonate is MUCH tougher.

FWIW- getting the bezels off of "old" Cork, and 'varnish" from polymerized lube oil components, you want a 2-point "pin spanner" or three-pin AKA Bergeon (style) watch case "back" tool and a bit of rotation. H-F junque will do if you don't have Bergeon goods already. It wants to not be marred. Force involved is otherwise not great.

If converted to "O" rings all you need is to pull the screws, no wrenching ever again. Mind, "clean" Cork, raw, no Indian head sealant, ain't half bad for reusability, either, the low temps a 10EE runs compared to auto underhood application, "back in the day".



2CW
 

bob

Titanium
Joined
Aug 12, 2002
Location
Regina, Canada
Maybe it was parked long ago because they could not get it running? If it was mine I would try that first instead of worrying about sight glasses.
 

thermite

Diamond
Joined
Sep 21, 2011
Location
Sol, Terra
Maybe it was parked long ago because they could not get it running? If it was mine I would try that first instead of worrying about sight glasses.

Easy for YOU to say, what with a spare set of $2500-$3500 and scarce spindle bearings already paid for?

Or do you have?

:(

Only other thing as can demand that much coin in one go is a full bed re-grind.

10EE in skilled hands don' NEED no perfect bed.

Surely ain't much use with bad spindle bearings, though.

They ALL can be made to run. Lotta choices for motation when all it cares is sumthin' powers the belt(s).

DC if yah got even nought but the motor. Time has passed. MANY rebuilds to OEM have been proven cost-effective. Third-party DC to power it has gone easier to find. Not harder.
 

evanthayer

Aluminum
Joined
Jun 13, 2018
Thanks everyone for the advice! The monarch is next on the list after I finish the bridgeport mill mechanical restoration which is almost done.

I've secured a set of all of the WIAD tubes and a pair of the drop-in replacements for the big-boys from scissio. The inside of the machine is covered in oil and muck so it will need a good scrub before I am willing to get inside there and go over everything. I am considering removing the WIAD and drawer to get it up on the bench to do a proper job but I don't want to get ahead of myself!
 








 
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