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A couple of library tables for a good client

scsmith42

Aluminum
Joined
Jul 28, 2020
Location
New Hill, NC
A number of years back we did a large milling, drying and millwork job for a local church that was building a YMCA adjacent to their sanctuary. They shipped in several log trucks of southern yellow pine logs, along with some large white oak and red maple logs that were harvested from the site. We milled, kiln dried, and then processed the lumber into interior and exterior trim and other uses. Some of the largest white oak slabs were made into slab tables for the common areas of the church and YMCA.

When we completed that job, we still had a few boule's of WO and RM leftover, which we've been slowly selling off for them as the opportunity arose.

Recently they asked if we could make a couple of library tables from some of the leftover WO. They wanted something 8' long, but light enough to be portable.

Below is the result.

Table 1 was made from a center cut (quartersawn) 11/4 character slab. The slab was resawn into a pair of bookmatched planks, and then we assembled them into the pattern below. Pith voids were filled with black epoxy. It was a bit of a challenge due to all of the stresses present in the lumber. The multiple pith's from the limbs all wanted to move in different directions, and each one of the resawn bookmatched slabs also had to be ripped down the middle and reglued in order to help alleviate the results of the reaction wood present.

Although challenging, I am pleased with the character of the end result.

Table from side.jpg



Below is an end view of the same table.

Table from end.jpg



And here is an opposing corner view.

Top corner.jpg



The legs were made from a 3 piece glue up of edge spalted, quartersawn WO, with veneer sliced off of the two "show sides" and then bookmatched glued around the corner to cover the seams from the glue up. I enjoy this technique. It provides for a more stable leg and allows me artistic freedom to create a piece with character that spans around the corners. The edge glue lines tend to disappear since they are located on the corners of the leg.

Leg veneer.jpg



Here is the second top. This one was not a center cut, but was selected for both the spalting and edge grain character that is showcased in the middle of the table. The resawn planks were also ripped to allow for addressing the stresses; I'm pleased with how the glue lines disappeared though. Both of these tops are actually 4 board glue ups.

Second table from end.jpg



Below is a close up of the grain character in the center of table 2.

Table 2 center grain.jpg



Here are the two bases before finishing and attaching the tops.

table bases.jpg


With the needs of the sawmill and kiln operation, along with running the farm, I don't get a chance to do much woodworking. Typically I refer clients to local woodworking artisans. In this case though, it's a good customer and we have a connection to the wood. All in all a fun project and I'm pleased with the results.

I can’t take credit for the finish work; that goes to Jeff Karges of Karges Furniture fame. Jeff actually used to teach classes on finishing with Sam Maloof at his school in California many years back. He is a genius when it comes to finishing and a genuinely nice guy.
 

jaguar36

Hot Rolled
Joined
May 13, 2015
Location
SE, PA
Looks awesome! I hear ya on the challenges of dealing with wood slabs like that. I've been working on a bartop thats also using a spalted oak slab and even just ripping it is a challenge with the internal stresses pinching the blade.

What did you use for a finish?
 

scsmith42

Aluminum
Joined
Jul 28, 2020
Location
New Hill, NC
Looks awesome! I hear ya on the challenges of dealing with wood slabs like that. I've been working on a bartop thats also using a spalted oak slab and even just ripping it is a challenge with the internal stresses pinching the blade.

What did you use for a finish?
Catalyzed lacquer
 

Rickw55

Aluminum
Joined
Jan 6, 2008
Location
Okla.
I like you idea of covering the glued-up sides of the legs with book-matched veneers . How thick do you cut the veneers?
Rick W
 

scsmith42

Aluminum
Joined
Jul 28, 2020
Location
New Hill, NC
I like you idea of covering the glued-up sides of the legs with book-matched veneers . How thick do you cut the veneers?
Rick W
Around 1/8".

I have a dedicated 16" horizontal resaw bandsaw with carbide tipped bands. It maintains a tolerance of around .003 across a sheet of sawn veneer, which is pretty good for woodworking.

I really prefer to do glue ups for legs, because it allows me to choose lumber with interesting figure along one edge for the "show sides". When I edge match veneer from it, it allows for a really artistic leg that is very stable dimensionally.
 
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rons

Diamond
Joined
Mar 5, 2009
Location
California, USA
I've used butterflies (aka dutchmans) in other projects, but did not think that they would work with this particular one. They are a great option for stabilizing splits where the voids are not filled with epoxy.
Didn't mean to talk the tables down. I would prefer to have a solid top like yours.
The butterfly is supposed to keep a piece from splitting more than it already has.
It's an extravagant addition to just put it in a solid piece. But at the gallery the price goes up.
 

richard newman

Titanium
Joined
Jul 28, 2006
Location
rochester, ny
Around 1/8".

I have a dedicated 16" horizontal resaw bandsaw with carbide tipped bands. It maintains a tolerance of around .003 across a sheet of sawn veneer, which is pretty good for woodworking.

I really prefer to do glue ups for legs, because it allows me to choose lumber with interesting figure along one edge for the "show sides". When I edge match veneer from it, it allows for a really artistic leg that is very stable dimensionally.

Veneering the legs for appearance is just one extra step that makes a piece really sing, very well done. Attention to details like that adds up to a superior piece, even if the viewer doesn't consciously notice it.

I'm curious about your resaw, sounds like a great machine, what model do you have? How thin a veneer can you saw and what is the kerf? I do a lot of resawing, but on a vertical with a resawing power feed I made.
 
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scsmith42

Aluminum
Joined
Jul 28, 2020
Location
New Hill, NC
Thanks for the kind words. Re the resaw, I own this one:


The best bands that I’ve used are Laguna carbide tipped Resaw Kings. Kerf is .035 and there is 0 degree set in the bands. It only takes .015 or so sanding per side to remove the kerf marks. I’ve also used the Lennox carbide tipped bands, but the RK’s are much better and have a thinner kerf.

The bandsaw is digital and very accurate. I’ve cut veneer that was paper thin before.

This particular saw was designed for resawing guitar veneer. I previously had a large vertical bandsaw with a resaw fence and power feeder, but the 0504 is in a league of its own. We’ve run the saw for days on end - 7 hours a day w/o any problems.

I realize that equipment from this manufacturer is not well regarded here in PM, but this saw is truly outstanding quality through and through.
 

richard newman

Titanium
Joined
Jul 28, 2006
Location
rochester, ny
Can't argue with the results you're getting. I'm very willing to believe Grizzly can get it right when they choose to, just too bad they entered the market making the cheapest stuff, hard to overcome that sort of reputation. Especially around here!

.037" kerf is great, I may have to try one of those blades some day. I've used the Lenox Tri-master with great results, but that big kerf is problematic with costly exotics. And I had to find rogue teeth with a dial indicator and grind them with a diamond point in a Dremel. I've also tried a Lenox Die-master II bi-metalic after squeezing it in a mill vise to bring the kerf down to about .036". I was amazed how well it worked, except for occasional resonance. Need to experiment with more guide blox, lubrication, and varying the blade speed. I'm sawing tonewoods - old Braz RW and figured Cuban Mahogany, yield is critical.
 

richard newman

Titanium
Joined
Jul 28, 2006
Location
rochester, ny
When I was making furniture, I sawed to about .060", and sanded down to .036", the old 1/28" standard. All my furniture was veneered with resawn veneers. I used a Rube Goldberg setup on a 36" Tannewitz, pulling the work thru with a winch.

Now I make banjos, and laminated rims for other makers. Nothing wider than 4", mostly sawing to .340" - .350", sanding to .320". Sold the Tanny, using my old Powermatic 20" with a powerfeed I built just for that stuff. I'm going to rebuild it to take wider stock so I can do guitar backs as well. Have some great stock, seems the best way to monetize it. Unfortunately can't afford one of those nifty horizontal rigs.

 








 
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