While dreaming about electronic leadscrew nonsense this popped into my head the other night. I had to wake up and write it down before I forgot it. I haven't built it yet, but it seems like it could work.
Curious to hear other's opinions.
So, instead of doing the 127/100 compound gearing or an ELS conversion, or some other trickery to convert the leadscrew ratio to what is needed for a metric pitch, what if we changed the ratio AFTER the half nut? What if we never touched the gearing at all.
This is my idea-
Assemble a toolholder for threading that has ways inline with the Z axis, allowing a half inch or so of side-side movement.
Pivot point is fixed to rear bedway, like a taper attachment bed clamp. Just a clamp with a stud sticking up.
Here's the magic- You take your metric pitch you want to cut and do some math. Say I want to cut 2mm pitch. 2mm pitch is 12.7 threads per inch. So I set the quick change for the nearest pitch- 13 TPI. Then I whip up a foot long or so lever that compensates for the pitch error. Lets say we attach the lever with a linkage rod (pair of heims) to the carriage 12" from the center of the pivot. 13/12.7= 1.023622 x 12" = 12.2834" is where we would attach the linkage rod that moves our second Z axis @ the toolholder.
You set the pivot point up so the arm is around 90 degrees and you're only threading an inch or two max 99% of the time so the ratio stays pretty close through it's arc.
For metric threads I think you could even use the half nut. The lathe thinks you're threading an inch pitch. The leadscrew's relationship to the carriage position is in perfect time with the thread dial. The ratio change happens AFTER the carriage movement.
To cut a different pitch you machine up a different lever arm and stamp into it what TPI to set the quick change for.
So to cut metric threads you would drop your aloris toolholder modified with a linear bearing truck on the toolpost and indicate it straight. You'd put the bed clamp on the ways. You'd install the appropriate lever from an assortment of levers you machined up (one lever could have multiple pivot points machined into it) and attach a couple link rods. Probably pop on and off in a few minutes if designed well enough.
Thoughts?
Curious to hear other's opinions.
So, instead of doing the 127/100 compound gearing or an ELS conversion, or some other trickery to convert the leadscrew ratio to what is needed for a metric pitch, what if we changed the ratio AFTER the half nut? What if we never touched the gearing at all.
This is my idea-
Assemble a toolholder for threading that has ways inline with the Z axis, allowing a half inch or so of side-side movement.
Pivot point is fixed to rear bedway, like a taper attachment bed clamp. Just a clamp with a stud sticking up.
Here's the magic- You take your metric pitch you want to cut and do some math. Say I want to cut 2mm pitch. 2mm pitch is 12.7 threads per inch. So I set the quick change for the nearest pitch- 13 TPI. Then I whip up a foot long or so lever that compensates for the pitch error. Lets say we attach the lever with a linkage rod (pair of heims) to the carriage 12" from the center of the pivot. 13/12.7= 1.023622 x 12" = 12.2834" is where we would attach the linkage rod that moves our second Z axis @ the toolholder.
You set the pivot point up so the arm is around 90 degrees and you're only threading an inch or two max 99% of the time so the ratio stays pretty close through it's arc.
For metric threads I think you could even use the half nut. The lathe thinks you're threading an inch pitch. The leadscrew's relationship to the carriage position is in perfect time with the thread dial. The ratio change happens AFTER the carriage movement.
To cut a different pitch you machine up a different lever arm and stamp into it what TPI to set the quick change for.
So to cut metric threads you would drop your aloris toolholder modified with a linear bearing truck on the toolpost and indicate it straight. You'd put the bed clamp on the ways. You'd install the appropriate lever from an assortment of levers you machined up (one lever could have multiple pivot points machined into it) and attach a couple link rods. Probably pop on and off in a few minutes if designed well enough.
Thoughts?