Here is what I wrote to MK today.
Here is what I wrote via email today. I added some more info about cleaning the surface plate.
The Charbonnel is too thick to use alone. Have been reading up on someone who used linseed oil to thin it. I'm going to experiment with that. I also just ordered some Stuerts Engineering bluing from eBay. I believe Tyrone used it for years. I have a case of Canode but I won't sell any. I mix the Charbonnel with Canode and it works OK, not perfect. I called ITW who makes Dykem and asked if they had water-based ink and they said no.
One of my students last week showed me some pigment he mixed up to use as a highlighter. Charbonnel works well as a Highlighter. I use red mixed with Windex. I do not dilute the Charbonnel blue with Windex.
Highlighter is the color you put on your part and wipe 99% of it off with a rag. It sets in the porous iron to dull the shine of the iron. We used to use Red-lead, but it was banned by OSHA as people were getting lead poisoning.
Until we figure out a better water-soluble ink or recipe I would suggest you use Dykem or some Stuarts. It sells for around $6.00 a tin on eBay. I bought 4 as the postage was the same for 1 or 4.
You need to buy a Control gauge from DAPRA that has a 1 x 1" square hole in it or scribe lines on some plexiglass. If you make one out of plex-e-glass scribe lines 1/4" apart both ways like graph paper and then count the high spots in each ¼ inch square. only count if they are bigger the a * . If they touch they are counted as 1. Attached are some pages out of my class manual. Take a look at it and call me...651-338-8141 if you have questions. I would sell you one of my DVD's for a deal
I also added some surface plates we used yellow Canode and red Chrbonnel high-lighter before bluing. You have to wipe it dry or it smears the part. Also, buy a hard rubber brayer to spread the bluing thinner and even on the plate. you need to be able to see through the bluing to get the right thickness. Or Transparent. I only squirt a little Windex on blue when its over 90 F degree's. I normally wipe it off every 12 th blue up as it gets dirt in it from the air. Or during classes students don't wipe the part and blued plate with their hand to feel the dirt. I always wipe it off before lunch and at the end of the day. Next time you see sunshine shining through a windo look at all the dust floating in it. That falls on the plate in your shop, so you have to clean off the ink a lot.
You should come to one of my classes this summer and I'd teach you to scrape.
Pic's L - R Cardinal red highlighter under Blue Canode and Canode mix, Canode yellow under blue Canode and Charbonnel prussian blue, Blue Carbonel and Blue Canode on plate with different size brayers on surface plate and PPI chart. The 3rd row is what we want. 20 PPI for most machines and 30 to 40 PPI for surface plates
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