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Adjustable hard stop on the long (X) axis of a Jones and Shipman 540 surface grinder

ballen

Active member
A few people have mentioned that it is useful to have an adjustable hard stop on the long axis of a surface grinder. Does anyone have one of these on a Jones and Shipman 540? Is it a factory option or do-it-yourself?
 

CalG

Active member
I'm no grinder hand, but..... (no, I didn't sleep in a holiday hotel)

The table stops on manual SG's are frequently fitted with spring action buffers prior to the hard stop.
In case you were going to make something for yourself.
 

michiganbuck

Active member
I think it would be a do-it-yourself item. Perhaps adding a flip-up post at the cover screw.
Might be something to do with the direction switch/control.
*Perhaps altering the direction control adjustable stops to have one (or two) with a threaded bump to intersect the control.
It is not needed very often, but I have needed it a few times..I'm trying to remember the parts that I needed that for.

One need would be if you used an end mill, grind the ends fixture. You would need to adjust the going to the center. Often you might make one flute long to center and the others short of center. I haven't done end mills that way because I always have access to a TC grinder.

Another need would be to come to a horizontal diamond radius dresser...to come to the last dress..and then feed in a little more.

A drop-in (long travel) stop is good for the basic under-the-wheel dresser.
A simple drop-in stick is Ok for that..like a cut-off paint stir stick.

I often keep a tab of masking tape to set on my down dial so I remember my last dress number...that way I know how much wheel I lost making the last grind..That makes shooting to closer size easier.
Close holding the stop of long travel makes that more accurate.
 
I used to work in a tool room where we ground the form on sets of 100 - 200 pins a time in a spin jig on the J&S 540. So we benefitted from having a longitudinal stops.

All we had was a block with a milled slot that had a grub screw. This would be made to fit on the rack under neath the table on the left hand side. It was designed to butt up against a painted surface on the saddle, but the paint can be easily removed in a small area to ensure a consistent relocation.

I hope this helps. We used them all the time with great success. Just remember to remove them before going back to surface grinding on auto feed.
 








 
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