Aloris tool post question

[Froneck]

I have a few CXA Aloris Tool Post, a CA and Dorian E too.
On a few occasions I noticed the tool post moved (rotated) after a heavy feed and cut depth, the CA too. Wanting to complete a rush job of quite a few parts I didn't want the tool post to move so I tighten it well, very tight! It didn't move, later I wanted to change the angle and trying to loosen the clamp nut, the center post of the tool holder was turning too. I pulled it tight again and moved the compound. I will finish the job today so will loosen the tool post and do what is necessary to fix the issue. I'm thinking the reason for "rotating" may have been the center post. I've disassembled Aloris tool post and know how they work. Should I loctite the lower thread inside the tool post that the center "tube" is attached? Would putting a needle bearing thrust bearing between the center post and hold down nut be a good idea?

 

[medsar]

If the center stud of the tool post is rotating when you try to loosen the top nut, then the set screw in the T-nut is broken or missing.

If the tool post still rotates when the center stud/t-nut assembly is tightened down, then check to make sure the T-nut isn’t proud of the compound t-slot.

 

[Froneck]

The stud in the "t-nut" in the T slot of the compound is welded in place. No possible chance of turning. By proud I assume you mean above the surface, no might be as much as a 1/8" below the surface. Also I needed the tool post to be about 1/2" higher though it's a CXA mounted on a 14" Hendey (16" actual). The riser was made the same size as the tool post, not sure what the hole on the bottom of the tool post is for been so long ago I made it I'm not sure if the hole was threaded but the hole was used to prevent the riser plate from turning, plate was surface ground flat and loctited to the bottom of the tool post, it does not move!

 

[johnoder]

I have had CA and DA apart and it takes some serious tooling to break them loose (think holding the body in a large shaper vise and turning the custom built driver with a four foot cheater bar)

I don't know if this is just real tight or thread locker or both

 

[Froneck]

I manages to remove the nut by hitting the wrench with a dead blow hammer, the shock broke it loose from the center post interesting was that the surface was coated with oil! I took it apart, cleaned off all the oil then cleaned it again in acetone especially the threads and used High Strength 272 (I think), turned it over and put Green self wicking loctite on the threads so it would fill any voids the red didn't fill. Made a driver with dowel pins and screwed the center post in and tighten it well. I diamond filed the top to remove any burrs I might have made with the driver and coated the surface with pure copper anti-seize. I'll let it sit for a day to let the Loctite cure. Thanks John, I didn't know if it was intended to be super tight as if loctited,