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American hole wizard column

smootz

Stainless
Joined
Dec 5, 2005
Location
Southern Ohio
The column on my 9" x 3' hole wizard has heavy scarring on the bottom 25%. It operates great in the upper 75% but squeeks and squeals near the bottom. I sanded it as much as I dared. The rest of the machine is great and it has the tapping feature. Is there a way to recondition the column or any other suggestions?
 
If the column is seriously worn ,and affects the alignment of the head,then Id think hardchroming and grinding to size would be a complete ,if expensive repair.
 
That's the irony. The head alignment is spot on. The scarring appears to have been caused by a foreign partical rather than wear. The whole machine actually shows little if any wear. Just for kicks and giggles, where would a person inquire about a new finish and grinding? The machine may be worth it.
 
I have had it done (hard chrome) at the local platers. Call a hydraulic rebuild shop and ask who they use, Or a machine tool rebuilder. Both would need the service

The first problem is going to be a shop with a big enough tank. Also the amount of buildup. May take many cycles

Raw part is ground/turned down under damage.
Plated
Ground
Plated
Repeat to size.

The next problem. Who has grinder big enough, and good enough, followed by a grinder hand who wont botch the work.
 
I can't think of a repair that wouldn't cost 10 times what a nice 3x9 radial drill is worth.

I think I'd just put a lot of oil on it and wear ear plugs. I've had lots of machines like that. I paid next to nothing for them because they have an obvious defect, but does that defect actually matter in use? If not, run it.

$5k in chroming and grinding for a drill worth $500. Just think of the scoring as "oil retention pockets" and use it.
 
Last time I was at the hardchromers,they had a stack of the front wheel suspension units off 300 ton rear dumps ,maybe 20 of them......very large when you get close up.....they do them all the time..
 
You don't have to like this advice......

If you just have divots, which I think is what you mean, the best thing to do is to fill them. I;ve cleaned the part 5x with solvent, and then repeated, to be sure.... then filled the divots/gouges with clear epoxy.

Worked the surface down with a "burr file" (won't damage anything that does not stick up). Been using the machines I did that to for many years, no issues, epoxy still there.

Make sure that whatever caused the divots is no longer in there before you start.

Some call it a bodge, I call it a practical way to keep more grit from getting under by hiding in the divots.
 
I had a customer with a 24" diameter radial arm drill column that was scored and I ground out the scores leaving a grooved key looking area bigger on the bottom side to anchor it in and used Devcon Aluminum epoxy to fill the scores as when it dried it shined like ground cast iron.. It worked good and no news is good news. They never called after the repair. Moglice.com now has a plastic metal called Score X and the new version comes with powders you can mix to match the metal color. Their old type was brown and you could see the repair. It is not a permanent repair, but it will stop the scoring. If you keep it clean and oiled it should stay in there for years. Oh and I squirt cleaned out the grooves with brake cleaner.
 
I had a customer with a 24" diameter radial arm drill column that was scored and I ground out the scores leaving a grooved key looking area bigger on the bottom side to anchor it in and used Devcon Aluminum epoxy to fill the scores as when it dried it shined like ground cast iron.. It worked good and no news is good news. They never called after the repair. Moglice.com now has a plastic metal called Score X and the new version comes with powders you can mix to match the metal color. Their old type was brown and you could see the repair. It is not a permanent repair, but it will stop the scoring. If you keep it clean and oiled it should stay in there for years. Oh and I squirt cleaned out the grooves with brake cleaner.
Do you think the squeeking us caused by the scoring? Upper 75% of column runs smooth and quiet.
 
I have the same machine in great condition but you live with the situation you’re dealing with. I’ve spent all my time in die shops and in that environment, it’s usually from not covering the column while grinding plugs or pins.

Shim the vise block up 10-12” and add a skid in front of the controls and drill on. If you don’t use the vise block stuff the drill chuck in a 10” sleeve
 
Do you think the squeeking us caused by the scoring? Upper 75% of column runs smooth and quiet.
After you have cleaned the column and used a vacuum cleaner to suck up the dirt. DON'T BLOW AIR. The Score edges get high so when it runs over them it could squeak. Take a smooth cut file and file the scores a little. You should be able to feel high spots. Then spray on some Dykem bluing in the scores and run it down and then up again and see where the bluing rubs off. If it rubs off harder on some scores file that area some more. Repeat until it looks good. The problem is the inside of the rail diameter is probably scored too. I don't see a super positive solution. If you had a micrometer you could check the diameter too. I just hope the scoring in the inside doesn't start to score up the higher area. Can you add some photo's please.
 








 
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