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American Pacemaker info needed

Yeah, a lot of newer MT4 tooling won't release from my 14" Pacemaker tailstock. Wasn't sure if tooling of the 1940s was slightly longer, or if someone shortened the end of the tailstock screw.

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Same on my High Duty- had to put a bolt in the end of the ER32 tailstock chuck I set up, so that the screw would eject it. I think the wiring monkeys were working my machine too; I found some .005 and .010 shims between the baseplate and tailstock body. Removed the shims and cleaned out the 50 years of accumulated crud- tailstock indicates approx level modulo the dents and dings.. so hmm.

They also somehow broke off a bolt in the headstock cover.. :rolleyes5:
 
On my 1952 Pacemaker a drill will eject at about the 1-1/2" mark on the tailstock, a live center ejects at about 3/4". I've never had anything too short to eject since that leaves me with nearly a full inch of retractable travel leftover.

However I haven't gotten my 1946 pacemaker running yet so I'm not sure if the older ones have a shorter screw. I may try to get a measurement later today.

My dad's 70s model has a short screw, but it is a live bearing tailstock.
To fix it he slipped a small steel slug in the back so that he can also remove it with a magnet if needed.
 
Thanks for the replies guys. They're pretty much what I was thinking and I'm glad to have confirmed it.

Drilling with the tailstock, whew what a workout. I see a toolpost mounted drill in my future ASAP.

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A little late in the response but this is what someone added to the tailstock screw on my 20"HD Raised 6" American Pacemaker
Thats 1/2" brass rod about 2" long. Thats for the big tailstock with the quill that's over 4.5" diameter. I haven't ejected a tool from the tailstock yet. Still cleaning.
Just showing someones fix for tools not ejecting.

20220504_100703.jpg
 
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Thanks for the replies guys. They're pretty much what I was thinking and I'm glad to have confirmed it.

Drilling with the tailstock, whew what a workout. I see a toolpost mounted drill in my future ASAP.

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Don't know if you've taken the tailstock to bits. I did so on a whim while working up some tailstock tooling and it made a substantial difference easing drilling; gunk hiding in the thrust bearing assy and parts of the quill lock. Didn't feel it when free-wheeling the quill but apparently it made a difference under load.
 
Don't know if you've taken the tailstock to bits. I did so on a whim while working up some tailstock tooling and it made a substantial difference easing drilling; gunk hiding in the thrust bearing assy and parts of the quill lock. Didn't feel it when free-wheeling the quill but apparently it made a difference under load.
Greg the quill slides beautifully, it's movin the tailstock back and forth, loosening/tightening those bolts that is the work out. My Monarch TS was about 100lbs, guessing this one is at least double the weight.

Also- the quill lock doesn't grip the quill well, or at all. I assume if I pull the lock handle apart there's an adjustment I can make?

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Greg the quill slides beautifully, it's movin the tailstock back and forth, loosening/tightening those bolts that is the work out. My Monarch TS was about 100lbs, guessing this one is at least double the weight.

Also- the quill lock doesn't grip the quill well, or at all. I assume if I pull the lock handle apart there's an adjustment I can make?

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Ah :) my tailstock is a bit less than 100lbs but not much, difficult to move it around gracefully lol. The quill lock split cotters on mine were packed off with crud which impeded operation; it took a bit of elbow grease to get them moving properly.

The thrust bearing assy is relatively fancy so the tailstock similary benefited considerably by getting all those parts out and cleaning everything. Required removing a dutchman screw and use of a circular spanner for the handwheel endcap. Having cleaned it well, the oiler on the handwheel end works better also...
 
Greg the quill slides beautifully, it's movin the tailstock back and forth, loosening/tightening those bolts that is the work out. My Monarch TS was about 100lbs, guessing this one is at least double the weight.

Also- the quill lock doesn't grip the quill well, or at all. I assume if I pull the lock handle apart there's an adjustment I can make?

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The clamp can be adjusted. On my ’41 there is a ring on the backside that tightens the clamp, but it can only be tightened to the point that it begins to induce drag on the quill. If that doesn’t help, you may have worn parts inside.

On my machine, I made a new screw and nut. The originally screw, by the way, was a square thread. What I noticed was that if you make the screw longer to eject anything in the taper, you lose a little travel. If you make it a little shorter, you gain a little travel, but you need to add little plugs to the end of your short arbors. I chose to make the new screw a little longer.
 
They sure didn't advertise them much as far as I can tell. I glanced thru a few of the pdf's, they mentioned the front/rear production slides and show the steady rests at least but not a mention of followers. I adapted one for my High Duty last summer... works pretty well. I found the lantern toolpost is a good match for it, the tool can be mounted centrally- easier to reach a tool right underneath the follower arm than with the quickchange post.

I'm happy to see that note about lantern post. Adding tool holding capability or efficiency is worthwhile, to justify purchase or retention. They don't go out of date, or spoil, they may get unpopular. Lot of guys aren't doing work that a little versatility can take in stride, and be profitable.
I've tooled up my Pacemaker "C" 16 inch, with turret posts, Aloris CA's, Dickson pattern ENCO's, and a pair of lanterns. They ALL have something they do a little better, an advantage, over another, the swap only a big wrench and a couple minutes away.
I believe most adamantly that versatile work holding options are worth pursuing as well.
 
The screw is supposed to push it out, if you install something too short for that to work you'll have to pry it out, or disassemble the tail stock and use a long punch through the screw hole.

In CA there is a L&S 16" VariSpeed I run on occasion. It has the same issue with certain #4 MT tooling. What I did, is this. I milled a knock-out spacer, that fits over the quill, and drops into space remaining between it and live center, slotted to just clear #4MT larger end. Back up the screw, knock out hits face of tailstock, with same effort you'd expect normally.
It's not usually needed, there is a spacer for the quill's hole to bump the screw. It's largest diameter that fits freely, out of aluminum with a steel plug for magnet.
 
Cole, I've got 3--- unknown carriage stops in the inventory here. Will send pics tomorrow if you think you can retro one to work with your custom idea!!
 
Cole, I've got 3--- unknown carriage stops in the inventory here. Will send pics tomorrow if you think you can retro one to work with your custom idea!!
Here's a pic of what I think it may look like, the lathe belongs to user 'tailstock4'. It sits up above the vee rather than in front of it.
 

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If appearance or 'genuine' is important, you'll likely be in for a wait.
With access to lathe and a mill a very good substitute can be made. Pick an even thread pitch, single point a rod and bushing. Make a broken 3 piece collet that fits a knurled nut to clamp rod at setting. Mill a block and clamp with 2 small bolts, that work from underside. If you want graduations, add to the outboard end of rod; many engraving shops can index a round part, if you don't have a spin jig or means to rotate increments.
 
Your dad has a 70's pacemaker ? I am truly impressed, that's like a fifty pound gold nugget ! topped with scarlett johansen, or whoever is hot these days !

My Pacemaker is 1967. Came with the original paperwork saying it sold new to a gold mine in Arizona. When I looked it up I found American Tool Works was stripped and broken up right about that time. 70's Pacemaker sounds suspicious.
 








 
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