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Any suggestions on cutting small and thin parts from 304

LionHeadGuy

Plastic
Joined
Sep 10, 2023
So maybe i can get some advice on a better way to get my desired results.

The finished parts measure about 2.375 long by .375 wide and .135 thick. They will be the handles for minature knives.
The original plan was to get a 2.5"x6'x.1875 piece of 304 stainless, cut it into 6.5" strips then deck them to thickness, drill and countersink some holes and then place them on a fixture to cut out the individual handles.
Well I was able to make my fixture plate and all was good until I started trying to deck the 304. I think part of my problem might be related to the tooling i have at hand. I planned to use a 2" shell mill with apkt inserts to remove about .02 and then come in with a flycutter and make a single .005 finish pass. Flip and repeat until they were at final thickness.

I ordered some inserts that would work better in stainless than what i had on hand and Im happy to say I was able to get an acceptable surface finish and good sounding cut out of the shell mill. The fly cutter hasnt worked quite so well though. I havent been able to get anything close to the results im looking for. Either the finish isnt good enough or it starts out great then goes to hell cause the insert chipped midway through. I have tried a range of feeds and speeds, cut with and without coolant and, tried a few different depths of cut Inserts might be the issue as they are tpg inserts held in generic 3/8 amazon lathe holders. Not ideal by any measure but its what I have on hand.

The other issue is that on the one i was able to get a good finish curled like a potato chip when removed from the vise. So any suggestions to deal with that would be helpful as well. I saw something about normalizing the material before working it but didnt read into the process all that much. The other trick seems to be taking small cuts from each side trying to balance the twist out as you go. That seems tricky considering the work hardening and lack of material to be removed. If thats my only option it is what it is but if normalizing or another process would work as well or better that would be preffered.

I do have a 45 degree face mill large enough to make a single pass with stainless specific inserts on order based on suggestions from other posts regarding cutting 304. Im really hoping the new cutter solves most of the issues but with the pessimistic assumption it wont is there anything you guys can suggest that might improve my results with the fly cutter at hand. Perhaps a different holder and insert combo, a better depth of cut and feed/speed combo to avoid work hardening.

I'm open to other processes or material suggestions as well. I had considered either 303 or 430 and my client is open to that idea but im wondering if id still have the same parts curling up issues with those that im having with the 304. I also suggested having the handle shapes cut over sized on a waterjet or laser and then do the 3d profiling in the mill, the client wasnt so keen on that and admittedly i dont have enough experience with stainless much less small stainless parts to argue. But if someone with more experience says hey thats actually a better way to do things that would help me change his mind.
 

implmex

Diamond
Joined
Jun 23, 2002
Location
Vancouver BC Canada
Hi LionHeadGuy:
You have a set of interlocking problems to deal with, and as you're finding out, they can be the devil's very own to sort out.

First, the curling like a potato chip.
If you are starting out from rolled bar, especially cold rolled bar, it's full of the stresses from rolling and will release those as soon as you skim off even a small amount of stock.
Stress relieving, normalizing or annealing the bar will help enormously, but you need to recognize that much of the physical properties like strength toughness and elasticity come from those stresses and if you anneal them away, you're left with bubble gum that's hard to finish because it will tear easily when you try to cut it.

304 is a shit miserable steel to cut anyway, and this won't help.

Second, the inability to get the finish you want...milling or fly cutting will always yield a shitty result in my experience because the steel is a bit gummy even when cold rolled or drawn.
My experience is not so much with plate but with round bar and it has a tendency to weld recut chips onto the surface if you don't cut it sloppy wet with really sharp cutters.
The key is to keep them sharp, and that depends mostly on the grade of carbide and how fast you're running the cutter.
I've found that the ideal processing window is narrow for the kinds of milling I do, and that heavy cuts make the problem much worse, so if I have a lot of stock to remove, I take a fast deep cut with a very shallow radial stepover and I do much better, but now I have a pattern of toolmarks to deal with that you may not like.
Here's a link:

I'm running it with MQL, so the sloppy wet part is happening, but it's refined vegetable oil, not water based coolant and yeah, it's slimy if you look closely, and the shop gets kinda blue with smoke.
But it smells a bit like the french fry cooker at McDonalds, so I live with it, even if it makes me a bit hungry :D

My solution for finishing has always been to use a separate finishing step, either grinding, sanding or polishing to get the finish I want.
For your parts a swipe with a palm sander like woodworkers use might be by far the most painless way to get a nice finish.
Sand it wet with silicon carbide paper and you may end up very happy.

Last, these are for knife handles...are you absolutely married to the thickness of 0.135"?
I ask because a much less traumatic way to make them is to buy your stock as sheet in the closest thickness you can... accept that thickness even though it's a bit skinny or thick, and then just have a bazillion laser cut for you from virgin, unblemished sheet.

You can buy 304 in a million different grades for stamping, for deep drawing, for fabricating etc etc, and many of them are covered with removable adhesive plastic films to protect the surface.
Architectural fabricators use 304 a lot and they often specify such a grade so they get an un-marred surface on their stuff for its good looks.
Ditto for the food industry where surface blemishes are not allowed because they attract bacteria.

So rather than hurt yourself trying to mill the material to the exact design thickness, I'd compromise and find the closest sheet thickness I can readily buy.

Cheers

Marcus
www.implant-mechanix.com
www.vancouverwireedm.com
 
Last edited:

LionHeadGuy

Plastic
Joined
Sep 10, 2023
Hi LionHeadGuy:
You have a set of interlocking problems to deal with, and as you're finding out, they can be the devil's very own to sort out.

First, the curling like a potato chip.
If you are starting out from rolled bar, especially cold rolled bar, it's full of the stresses from rolling and will release those as soon as you skim off even a small amount of stock.
Stress relieving, normalizing or annealing the bar will help enormously, but you need to recognize that much of the physical properties like strength toughness and elasticity come from those stresses and if you anneal them away, you're left with bubble gum that's hard to finish because it will tear easily when you try to cut it.

304 is a shit miserable steel to cut anyway, and this won't help.

Second, the inability to get the finish you want...milling or fly cutting will always yield a shitty result in my experience because the steel is a bit gummy even when cold rolled or drawn.
My experience is not so much with plate but with round bar and it has a tendency to weld recut chips onto the surface if you don't cut it sloppy wet with really sharp cutters.
The key is to keep them sharp, and that depends mostly on the grade of carbide and how fast you're running the cutter.
I've found that the ideal processing window is narrow for the kinds of milling I do, and that heavy cuts make the problem much worse, so if I have a lot of stock to remove, I take a fast deep cut with a very shallow radial stepover and I do much better, but now I have a pattern of toolmarks to deal with that you may not like.
Here's a link:

I'm running it with MQL, so the sloppy wet part is happening, but it's refined vegetable oil, not water based coolant and yeah, it's slimy if you look closely, and the shop gets kinda blue with smoke.
But it smells a bit like the french fry cooker at McDonalds, so I live with it, even if it makes me a bit hungry :D

My solution for finishing has always been to use a separate finishing step, either grinding, sanding or polishing to get the finish I want.
For your parts a swipe with a palm sander like woodworkers use might be by far the most painless way to get a nice finish.
Sand it wet with silicon carbide paper and you may end up very happy.

Last, these are for knife handles...are you absolutely married to the thickness of 0.135"?
I ask because a much less traumatic way to make them is to buy your stock as sheet in the closest thickness you can... accept that thickness even though it's a bit skinny or thick, and then just have a bazillion laser cut for you from virgin, unblemished sheet.

You can buy 304 in a million different grades for stamping, for deep drawing, for fabricating etc etc, and many of them are covered with removable adhesive plastic films to protect the surface.
Architectural fabricators use 304 a lot and they often specify such a grade so they get an un-marred surface on their stuff for its good looks.
Ditto for the food industry where surface blemishes are not allowed because they attract bacteria.

So rather than hurt yourself trying to mill the material to the exact design thickness, I'd compromise and find the closest sheet thickness I can readily buy.

Cheers

Marcus
www.implant-mechanix.com
www.vancouverwireedm.com
Ive got a VF3SS with flood coolant so getting it covered in coolant isnt a problem. I even have the programmable nozzle so keeping coolant on the flutes/inserts is no problem. I tried running dry cause i read that the thermal shock from using coolant might cause more problems then it fixes but results didnt improve so i went back to soaking it.

Getting a nice flat piece of off cut granite and using it with some good sandpaper as a lapping plate to get the finish i want when im close to final thickness is an option im willing to consider and with the feedrate on that flycutter it would probably be quicker too. I might just try that if the 45 degree cutter en route works good enough but doesnt leave me with the perfect finish im aiming for.
I will admit i made the mistake of ordering the stainless from McMaster instead of reaching out to local metal supplier. according to the cert its Hot Rolled, descaled and annealed and from a place called Valbruna Stainless inc located in Indiana. I considered 303 cause its suppose to be more free cutting and 430 is also on the table client even likes that 430 is magnetic but it is more expensive and while i dont mind spending a bit more on materials I might also be more adamant about having them laser cut or water jetted then ground if curling is still gonna be a big problem on the mill.
I expressed to my client that it would probably make more sense to find plate or bar stock close to the final thickness we want and either live with it being a bit over/under or have it ground to thickness after being either waterjetted or laser cut. He isnt so on board with that idea. He wants to either outsource the whole project or do it all in house outside of parts that are available off the shelf for cheaper than we could make them.

He is a buddy of mine and i think he doesnt really have a firm grasp on how much of a nightmare this seemingly simple batch of parts is to actually make. I get it there are guys out the that could make these day in day out no problem but they are probably running machines much nicer than a VF3SS and they are using nothing but high end holders, tool bodies and inserts. That work also comes at a premium price which is why I have asked him to look around and see what options he has outside of me doing it just so he can get an idea of how drastic the cost difference is gonna be. And i explained that even a shop with vast experience with 304 might also suggest having the blanks cut on a laser or water jet anyways.
 

implmex

Diamond
Joined
Jun 23, 2002
Location
Vancouver BC Canada
Hi again LionHeadGuy:
Interestingly you'd likely have exactly the same issues if you tried to run these on a million dollar Hermle.
Stress is stress and is utterly indifferent to the machine it's cut on.
So if they curl on the Hass, they're gonna curl on the Hermle.

Part of the problem is that you're hoping to mill a job that's not an ideal job for milling.
Just profiling the outsides with a cutter is miles slower than laser cutting one, and facing it both sides is miles slower than double disk grinding it.
You cannot escape that reality, and I've learned very painfully that I usually lose my ass when I try, unless there are unusual circumstances that allow me to bill for my actual time spent.
Having the customer in a screeching rush is one of those circumstances...when he has no choice but to accept the inefficiency and is willing to pay the premium, you can grit your teeth and get through it.
If that is the circumstance he faces, by all means go for it, but if not, you may wish to consider abandoning the job as unprofitable for your equipment.
The pain will be far less than if you piss him off, you lose your ass and you end up hating the job and each other for a thousand lifetimes.

On a last note, a couple of minor items:
1) sheet steel is closely controlled for thickness...very closely controlled.
It has to be because so many processes depend on that precision...stamping is an example.
2) 303 stainless is very close to 304 in physical properties with two exceptions
1) it is much more free machining
2) it's not weldable.

Both qualities come from the fact it contains sulfur that is put in to make the steel free machining.

Cheers

Marcus
www.implant-mechanix.com
www.vancouverwireedm.com
 

LionHeadGuy

Plastic
Joined
Sep 10, 2023
Why is he opposed to water jet?
I think he either wants me to do it all in house or he wants to just find another shop and have them handle everything. I told him another shop would likely do what im suggesting and he admits thats possible but I think he feels like he can hold another shop to a higher level of accountability than he can hold me to while not realizing that another shop is gonna charge him through the nose before he sees a single part.

He has no background in manufacturing or going from small batch handmade to large batch production scale work. So while he respects that im the one who knows what he's talking about for the most part he doesnt trust me enough to say okay make it happen while at the same time not doing any research on his part to verify whether im right or not.
 

LionHeadGuy

Plastic
Joined
Sep 10, 2023
Hi again LionHeadGuy:
Interestingly you'd likely have exactly the same issues if you tried to run these on a million dollar Hermle.
Stress is stress and is utterly indifferent to the machine it's cut on.
So if they curl on the Hass, they're gonna curl on the Hermle.

Part of the problem is that you're hoping to mill a job that's not an ideal job for milling.
Just profiling the outsides with a cutter is miles slower than laser cutting one, and facing it both sides is miles slower than double disk grinding it.
You cannot escape that reality, and I've learned very painfully that I usually lose my ass when I try, unless there are unusual circumstances that allow me to bill for my actual time spent.
Having the customer in a screeching rush is one of those circumstances...when he has no choice but to accept the inefficiency and is willing to pay the premium, you can grit your teeth and get through it.
If that is the circumstance he faces, by all means go for it, but if not, you may wish to consider abandoning the job as unprofitable for your equipment.
The pain will be far less than if you piss him off, you lose your ass and you end up hating the job and each other for a thousand lifetimes.

On a last note, a couple of minor items:
1) sheet steel is closely controlled for thickness...very closely controlled.
It has to be because so many processes depend on that precision...stamping is an example.
2) 303 stainless is very close to 304 in physical properties with two exceptions
1) it is much more free machining
2) it's not weldable.

Both qualities come from the fact it contains sulfur that is put in to make the steel free machining.

Cheers

Marcus
www.implant-mechanix.com
www.vancouverwireedm.com
I agree with you 100% and thats becauese i have a background and experience in the field which my client unfortunately does not.
I programmed it to cut 10 handle pieces from a blank vs just finish machine them from individual pre cut blanks and the time saving alone is drastic like hrs on a single batch. I realize that when your paying $150 or more for machine time making 50 parts in 5hr is alot cheaper per part than making 20 in the same 5hrs and with the money saved on milling you can pony up to have the blanks waterjetted or lasercut and ground to final thickness with no negatives except the turn around time to get those blanks. That doesnt even include the time spent trying to get a 2.5"x6.5" piece of .1875 304 down to .135 with a good finish and good flatness.

As far as 303 is concerned i know the sulfur is what makes it more free machining and that is of no concern nor is the inability to weld it. But like you stated even than it would still be more practical to have several handle blanks cut then finish machine them anyways. So while it might be easier to do the finish milling i dont know if the increased cost would be all the much worth it.
It seems like at this point based on the advice given convincing him to have them cut on a waterjet and finished in the mill is my best bet. Might need to poke around and see what other shops would charge to make said parts and what proccess they would use so I can give him an idea of how much its gonna actually cost to go with another shop. If another shop can do it and its still profitable for him fine by me that just one less nightmare batch of parts i have to worry about. Good thing is the tooling over already ordered can be used for other personal projects so it wont be all for nothing regardless of the outcome.
 

Karl_T

Cast Iron
Joined
Jun 13, 2008
Location
Dassel,MN,USA
FWIW, my son runs 304 on his mill lathe and waterjet all the time. Shipping can't be much on this part.
PM me if you want him to quote it.
 

mattthemuppet

Stainless
Joined
Apr 22, 2016
Location
San Antonio
doesn't sound like a great business arrangement to be honest - he doesn't trust your judgement and doesn't realise how expensive the parts will be to make the way he wants them, yet he wants to put you through the hassle of making them. Sounds like the best thing to do is let him outsource the parts to a different shop and gain his experience the hard way. If he is a friend, and not an acquaintance, that would also be the best way to preserve your friendship.
 

LionHeadGuy

Plastic
Joined
Sep 10, 2023
doesn't sound like a great business arrangement to be honest - he doesn't trust your judgement and doesn't realise how expensive the parts will be to make the way he wants them, yet he wants to put you through the hassle of making them. Sounds like the best thing to do is let him outsource the parts to a different shop and gain his experience the hard way. If he is a friend, and not an acquaintance, that would also be the best way to preserve your friendship.
Ive been trying to explain to him the reality of how much the project is gonna cost to do it the way he wants vs the way that I and alot of people on here have said would be most practical.

I think he needs to go to the shop that has helped him in the past and ask for a quote. I know they cant compete with my rate by a long shot but once he gets a real world quote and maybe some heads up advice from that shop he might realize that maybe he should just listen to me going forward as far as manufacturing is concerned.

Im no master but I know when to ask for help. And it seems like I was on the right path with having them roughed out on either a water jet or laser cutter. The added step of having them double disc ground would net me with close to final size blanks at the exact thickness far quicker and more accurately my original plan. Why my buddy doesnt agree has me at a loss.
My next step is to get a quote to have 500pcs waterjet cut and double disk ground and add in my machine time for the finish machining at 125/hr. Then make a quote using the same 125/hr rate and getting the hrs from the machining times for the associated programs made in fusion 360 to make that same 500pcs. I think once he sees the difference he might just say okay we'll do it your way.
 

LionHeadGuy

Plastic
Joined
Sep 10, 2023
Move the material to 17-4...much more stable
What makes it more stable than 304. I see it has sulfur added which would make it more free cutting and that it has touch bit less chromium and considerably less nickel as well as a touch of copper. What difference that makes regarding machinability i dont know.

I also noticed the rockwell rating seems to be higher so maybe its less gummy but at the cost of decreased tool life.

Am I on the right path
 








 
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